Cam Question
04-26-2010, 07:30 PM
#11
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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Well not necessarily. It depends on the specs, and weather you degree them or not. One company's stage 1 might be more like another company's 2. The whole "stage" business need to be thrown away IMO. What cams are you looking at? In general most stage 1 type cams will drop in as is and be okay, but again it depends on a few things.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...s-xe262ah.html
04-26-2010, 07:42 PM
#12
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Location: MI
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Yeah, those cams are okay, but if you're staying n/a there are better ones IMO. I just did a cam swap on my ride, and did Modular Head Shop stage 2 n/a cams for the PI heads.
2 very important things need to be accounted for when throwing in cams: 1) What are the "exact" specs of the cams you're buying? Just because they advertise a certain spec, doesn't mean that's what you'll exactly get. They really shoud be checked. This is more common than you think. 2) Where are you current cam gears at? If they are off by several degrees (in an advanced state) they could have ptv contact even with those stage 1 cams. Solution...buy a set of matched cam gears that have been set back to 0 degrees.
So you see it's not a simple as some may think. Now like i said "most" stage 1 types will drop in and be okay, but it just depends on the current state of your cam gears, and the "true" specs of the cams that you're buying.
2 very important things need to be accounted for when throwing in cams: 1) What are the "exact" specs of the cams you're buying? Just because they advertise a certain spec, doesn't mean that's what you'll exactly get. They really shoud be checked. This is more common than you think. 2) Where are you current cam gears at? If they are off by several degrees (in an advanced state) they could have ptv contact even with those stage 1 cams. Solution...buy a set of matched cam gears that have been set back to 0 degrees.
So you see it's not a simple as some may think. Now like i said "most" stage 1 types will drop in and be okay, but it just depends on the current state of your cam gears, and the "true" specs of the cams that you're buying.
04-26-2010, 07:53 PM
#13
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Location: New York
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that is a pretty big cam compared to mhs stage 2. The intake center line is 109 with a duration of 226.
MHS measured .005 clearance with 108 intake center line and 225 duration. So with iffy stock cam gears that are +-4 degrees you may or may not run into trouble. MHS has a service where they degree your cams to your cams specs so you know what specs they are degreed at. If your gears are off they sell 50 dollar adjustable ones so your cams will be degreed when you drop them in. Just something to think about.
MHS measured .005 clearance with 108 intake center line and 225 duration. So with iffy stock cam gears that are +-4 degrees you may or may not run into trouble. MHS has a service where they degree your cams to your cams specs so you know what specs they are degreed at. If your gears are off they sell 50 dollar adjustable ones so your cams will be degreed when you drop them in. Just something to think about.
04-26-2010, 07:56 PM
#14
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Just so you all know (i posted it in my cams thread) my stage 2's came 5 and 7 degrees retarded from Bullet. After we got them to the desired 110 ICL i had a whopping .025"-.030" clearance. That should tell you something right there.
04-26-2010, 10:11 PM
#15
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I am planning on staying NA I think, I'll look around at the MHS.
Did you have to change anything else on your ride with those?
FYI - I just have stock gearing, I know sometimes that matters with cams.
04-26-2010, 10:29 PM
#16
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That tells you that MHS cams are weak sauce and leave a lot of power on the table... The engine works in perfect sync. If you knew how they work the clearance doesn't matter as long as there is no PTV contact...
I dont care if there is a hair width difference, if there is no contact there is no problem..
Personally the heads I would buy, the cams... not so much.
I dont care if there is a hair width difference, if there is no contact there is no problem..
Personally the heads I would buy, the cams... not so much.
04-27-2010, 03:02 AM
#20
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Location: MI
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That tells you that MHS cams are weak sauce and leave a lot of power on the table... The engine works in perfect sync. If you knew how they work the clearance doesn't matter as long as there is no PTV contact...
I dont care if there is a hair width difference, if there is no contact there is no problem..
Personally the heads I would buy, the cams... not so much.
I dont care if there is a hair width difference, if there is no contact there is no problem..
Personally the heads I would buy, the cams... not so much.
Having clearance when turning the motor over manually doesn't mean you'll have it at say 6,000 rpm.