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Stripped motor mount nut

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Old 04-28-2010, 10:34 PM
  #11  
JC316
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I usually use a big *** pair of channel locks for something like this, but that nut isn't exactly accessible. Torch is probably the only option.
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:32 PM
  #12  
devongarver
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Maybe I am missing something, but why can you not use a stud remover and remove the stud, then by a new stud and nut and put it back in its place?
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Old 04-29-2010, 08:37 PM
  #13  
jvog
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Originally Posted by devongarver
Maybe I am missing something, but why can you not use a stud remover and remove the stud, then by a new stud and nut and put it back in its place?
What is this stud remover you speak of
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Old 04-30-2010, 06:08 AM
  #14  
devongarver
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Originally Posted by jvog
What is this stud remover you speak of
Well there are two types that i am familiar with.

The first is the basic one piece, works like the stripped nut remover. it is longer though, and obviously comes in smaller diameters to match stud sizes.
I have not personally used this type.

The second, is the the cam lock style. It uses simple mechanical ability to bind against a stud allowing use of a ratchet (and extension if needed) to remove studs. I used this on my ranger when i was doing the headers, as i managed to strip the nut as you have done. I'm like, wtf do i do now!!! A guy at the plumbing shop I worked at used to be a mechanic, and he's like, hey, dummy, try this. All I did was spray some PB blaster on the stud and let it set a while, then out it came. Pretty simple really. If you have like 9/32" of length on the stud to grab, that's enough for one of these puppies to work. Here is a link for a bunch of different ones.

Good Luck!
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Old 04-30-2010, 06:14 AM
  #15  
devongarver
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Of course, you could always just try something fun! Take a socket(the correct size that normally fits the nut that's stripped), fill it up completely with JB weld...Stick it on there for a day or two(hold it is place with wire or tape or something(don't drive the car obviously lol). After it has hardened, just stick the ratchet and extension on there and push towards the motor while giving it torque to crank it loose! I don't guarantee it will work...but it might! If nothing else you could then say it DIDN'T work! haha
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Old 05-01-2010, 03:12 AM
  #16  
97modifiedmustangGT
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try putting 2 nuts on there and use the one in the middle to back out the stud. know what i mean?
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Old 05-02-2010, 01:08 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 97modifiedmustangGT
try putting 2 nuts on there and use the one in the middle to back out the stud. know what i mean?
exactly.. If nothing else.. use a brazing tip on the torch and angle it away from the block, but 2 nuts on the stud locked together will do the trick. tighten them up with two wrenches and use a socket to break the stud away.
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:34 AM
  #18  
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However, I do not believe the single mounting post at the bottom side of the OEM motor mount is a removable stud.

I haven't held a mount in my hand for some time, however IIRC it's a upset mounted/welded fixed stud.
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Old 05-02-2010, 10:59 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cliffyk
However, I do not believe the single mounting post at the bottom side of the OEM motor mount is a removable stud.

I haven't held a mount in my hand for some time, however IIRC it's a upset mounted/welded fixed stud.
Say what lol? Its the one on the top left actually.
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Old 05-03-2010, 06:27 AM
  #20  
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lol he means it won't come out. Nutz.
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