OK...Heating up quick, new thermostat, still same
#1
OK...Heating up quick, new thermostat, still same
Drove my car today(south florida 95*F) for a few minutes with the a/c all the way up. Got back home it was fine. Went back to the store in stop and go traffic and at a long redlight noticed the temp gauge getting hot...get home and let it run and notice its REAL hot needle was pointing about 3/4 or more to the H...i shut it off and coolant came out everywhere...
at this point im already thinking
1. fans
2. thermostat
3. water pump
4. diablo tune
Filled it back up and drove it to my friends shop where we changed the thermostat but still did the same thing. Fans were on but im not sure if they always need to be on b/c they only turned on way after it was real hot. I took the can tune from my diablo off and still caused it to heat up.
Any thing youguys think? My friend was going to do a block test later tonight after he closed the shop...
any help will be greatly appreciated...
at this point im already thinking
1. fans
2. thermostat
3. water pump
4. diablo tune
Filled it back up and drove it to my friends shop where we changed the thermostat but still did the same thing. Fans were on but im not sure if they always need to be on b/c they only turned on way after it was real hot. I took the can tune from my diablo off and still caused it to heat up.
Any thing youguys think? My friend was going to do a block test later tonight after he closed the shop...
any help will be greatly appreciated...
#3
How many miles on the car, when was the coolant last flushed and replaced?
If "a bunch" and "never" then most likely the radiator is clogged--go to a good radiator shop and they can flow test it to be sure, but it's probably not flowing enough through the critical paths.
This is pretty common with higher mileage cars that have never had the cooling system flushed...
If "a bunch" and "never" then most likely the radiator is clogged--go to a good radiator shop and they can flow test it to be sure, but it's probably not flowing enough through the critical paths.
This is pretty common with higher mileage cars that have never had the cooling system flushed...
#5
if yur cap popped u need a new one. what happened i think is yur fans are set to come on too late and u probly have a radiator problem like said above, the car got hot and pressurized the system and popped the cap when it reached 16psi. i hope u didnt fck up and warp the heads deck from over heating and are gonna need a head gasket and deck job! ill pray for ya bro tht it is a lil problem. i hate seein people have these kinds of probs. it sux!
#6
if yur cap popped u need a new one. what happened i think is yur fans are set to come on too late and u probly have a radiator problem like said above, the car got hot and pressurized the system and popped the cap when it reached 16psi. i hope u didnt fck up and warp the heads deck from over heating and are gonna need a head gasket and deck job! ill pray for ya bro tht it is a lil problem. i hate seein people have these kinds of probs. it sux!
thanks for the prayers btw...is there an easy way to check the radiator or should i just buy a new one? buddy has ordered one for $180 but said that if we didnt need to use it he would just take it back to advanced...
he also did a block test yesterday and said everything came out fine...
#8
The CCRM is in the passenger side front fenderwell. you need to remove the fender liner ro get at it--here's the location diagram from the shop manual.
One other thing to check is the low speed fan dropping resistor, it's located at the top of the fan shroud just below the passenger side end of the coolant tank.
It clips in (it is somewhat fragile so remove it gently) and looks like this.
The big green thingy is the resistor, the small component beneath it is a thermal cut-off fuse (TCF) that as the name implies cuts off the connection is the resistor overheats--it is non-resettable and must be replaced if it fails.
The OEM TCF is spot welded to the mounting points as plain ol' solder would not withstand the heat--I used silver solder to replace the TCF on the only unit I've repaired, and last I knew it was running fine after more than a year.
One other thing to check is the low speed fan dropping resistor, it's located at the top of the fan shroud just below the passenger side end of the coolant tank.
It clips in (it is somewhat fragile so remove it gently) and looks like this.
The big green thingy is the resistor, the small component beneath it is a thermal cut-off fuse (TCF) that as the name implies cuts off the connection is the resistor overheats--it is non-resettable and must be replaced if it fails.
The OEM TCF is spot welded to the mounting points as plain ol' solder would not withstand the heat--I used silver solder to replace the TCF on the only unit I've repaired, and last I knew it was running fine after more than a year.
#10
update, **** is still heating up...
-water pump checks out fine
-thermostat checks out fine
-low speed fan sensor was as good as new
now i bought the coolant temp sensor and refurbished ccrm
i will replace both and cross my fingers
could there be anything else? are the radiators that easy to change b/c thats the last on my list to do or is there an easy way to check if its flowing right
-water pump checks out fine
-thermostat checks out fine
-low speed fan sensor was as good as new
now i bought the coolant temp sensor and refurbished ccrm
i will replace both and cross my fingers
could there be anything else? are the radiators that easy to change b/c thats the last on my list to do or is there an easy way to check if its flowing right