leenbeast04

Ok heres what i have on my 2004 4.6L.

4:10 Rear Gears, Full Exhaust w/ ford racing ceramic coated shorty headers, catless H pipe, flowmasters super 40's, Patriot Performance Stage II Cylinder Heads, Comp cams extreme energy XE270AH cam shafts, Professional products polished typhoon intake manifold, 75mm throttle body, intake spacer, Moroso aluminum valve covers, Cold air intake kit, 90mm lightning MAF sensor, Aeromtive Fuel rails, braided steel fuel lines, Venom 42lbs fuel injectors, Steeda underdrive pulleys, MSD coil packs, NGK iridium spark plugs, suspension lowering kit w/ caster camber kit, edelbrock high flow water pump.

i think thats it. i just recently took it to the dyno and had the shop tune it. week later they come back to me and tell me its only make 296 to the wheels. Is it me or is there something wrong here i thought i would be well into the 300s.

MU71L4710N

sounds a little low to me but on an NA engine especially needing the revs and high end power, shorties may not be helping you too much. also, dyno numbers dont mean anything either. i can have a dyno sheet show my car has 1500rwhp, but it doesnt make it true.

however, i see no fuel pump listed in your mods. have you talked to the tuner? does he feel something is holding you back or can he just not squeeze anything else out?

ctgreddy

another thing to consider, what was the temperature like that day? my buddy got his gtp tuned on a day with very high humidity and a 95 degree temp, dyno'd at 278. then did it again a few weeks later, same exact dyno and operator, only it was later and only 70 degrees, and picked up 30horse.

NinjaMonky

and what kind of dyno will make a difference as well.

leenbeast04

yeah it was a really hot and humid day, he said it was a bad day to make hp, and i still have the stock fuel pump, he said that the dyno computer said that the fuel pump was working harder than it needed to, he said it might have been a dirty fuel filter, but i'm not sure. i'm just trying to sell it right now, i don't want to do too much more work to it.

tbirdscwd

Trap speed is a much better indicator of how much power you are truly making. Dynos are great tuning tools, but that's it.......every dyno reads differently. Even the same dyno can read differently between different runs. I made 271rwhp and 291rwtq on my first run on the base tune which I was trapping consistent 107s, then after some tweaking I made 271rwhp and 286rwtq on the same dyno, same day but somehow am managing to trap 108-109 now.

cliffyk

N/a on a 2V I think you are in "ball park" vicinity of what can be expected.

A couple of comments, the MAF and injectors are much larger than they need to be. This means that on both you are operating in the lower 60% of their capacity, the injectors are probably barely making 55% duty cycle. 30lb/h injectors and the stock MAF would be plenty--the 30lb/h injectors would be at 85% duty cycle at 390fwHP, the stock MAF can handle 375fwHP before it pegs.

These two things make tuning more difficult because your're not using the full range of the devices...

schmallz

350-360hp at the crank seems about right for the 2vs.

Have you ported and polished your Typhoon yet?

MU71L4710N

didnt even read that, the typhoon needs to go. u should throw a stocker back on

uberstang1

Ill have to agree, you are in the 280-310 rwhp range with the 2v