smitty2919

Well tonight I went and started putting it together.

I got it all wired and had a 15A inline Blade fuse before my "arming switch" on the coil side of my relay, but it blew...I put in a 30A blade fuse and it also blew. Both blew when the key was in the "ON" position and I flipped my arming switch to arm the BRB and POP (bye bye fuse)

The car will get all accessories when during KOEO mode, and will even start normal via the key. This tells me that my wires from my ignition GY/YE to the relay (pin 30), from relay (pin 87) to tap into WH/PK wire, and from relay (pin 87A) to GY/YE into harness wires are wires correctly or the car wouldn't start.

I have the arming switch, relay(pin 86), and BRB grounds connected together and tapped into the center console power outlet ground wire.....

Am I missing something obvious???

smitty2919

What the crap....I don't think the RS 275-1549 is a true momentary switch. Apparently the center pin is connected to an outer pin. and then depressed the center pin connects to the opposite outer pin. So it is never in an "off" position. I have my center pin grounded and the 2 outer pins carrying the power with the thinking that when depressed it connects the 2 outer pins...

cliffyk

Can you sketch your circuit? I don't know what you mean by "arming" switch as there is no such thing in my circuit.

The 275-1549 is an SPDT momentary switch, meaning that like any SPDT, non-"center off" switch one pole is normally closed and the other in normally open--these are designated as an ON-(ON) SPDT switches by real parts suppliers. The parentheses indicate a momentary contact, the number of positions is indicated by the number of ON/OFF combinations shown.

A SPDT center-off momentary switch would be labled (ON)-OFF-(ON), a SPDT center-off non-momentary would be ON-OFF-ON....

cliffyk

The Honda S2000 switch is nice (click here, near the bottom of the page), it's also $40 (used to be $24). It fits is a standard cigar lighter hole with just a bit of filing.

That's the switch I used in my Miata BRB kits I made years ago--more about wiring it here. You can see it in this photo:

smitty2919

The only thing different is that I put a toggle switch like you would get in a Walmart fog light kit...it is placed after the inline fuse and before the BRB. This is just so I can kill the power to the BRB and not have it "hot" when driving and hit it by accident.

So the switch I have is ON when it is at rest with the center pole connected to one side pole, and when depressed it switched to ON again but to the other pole...which by having my center pole grounded is NOT helping me lol

smitty2919

After looking through RS website again, I have come across these:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062496

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062501

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062510

All three are rated at 3A 125V and are normally "OFF" and only "ON" when depressed.

Cliff I didn't want the S2000 button or anything similar because I'm doing a stealthy BRB install. When it is done you won't be able to find it (could cut the WH/PK wire and have it become another security feature...if you can't find the button, you cant start the car)

cliffyk

There should be nothing on the switch connected to ground--why did you do that?

One of the normally open terminals connects to +12V after the fuse, the other to the relay coil. The other relay coil terminal connects to ground.

click the photo

smitty2919

The switch I have right now has 3 terminals and this is how they are laid out


NC COM NO
1----2---3


(dashed lines mean nothing)

I grounded the COM pin thinking that when depressed the 1 and 3 pins connect and close the circuit....but now reading your terminology of Normally Open etc....I clearly did it wrong. There were no wiring schematics with the switch.

If it was a 2 post momentary switch I would have it wired as you just stated. One pin gets the power from the fuse end and the other pin runs to the relay then from relay to ground.

cliffyk

You just need to consider the NO contacts as a "2 post momentary switch"...

cliffyk

I like that approach--I had a '64 turbocharged Corvair that was a hot item at the time--I had a row of 6 toggle switches on the dash that had to be in the correct positions before the car would start--only 64 combinations but in combination with the ignition switch more than enough to slow them down. It had a factory installed 8-track player too, a regular chick-magnet...