cisurfer

I threw my new strange struts in my car last night due to one leaking and I was running coil overs from upr with a 14in 175lb spring. the spring always had clearance but for some reason it is hitting the strut tower lip towards the outside of the car when I turn full left (on the drivers side) The only way to fix this is to give it more negative camber but its already negative with the plates pulled all the way out. I used to run camber bolts in addition to cc plates but wanted to try to due away with them if possible. Should I just use them again this will fix the problem? Are they safe they are the steeda ones

uberstang1

Are you running 3 b olt or 4 bolt CC plates?

cisurfer

4 bolt, im gunna go ahead and throw in the camber bolts tomorrow, the 05+ are known to use these all the time. This will correct the problem but allowing me to make pos camber at the spindle and then i cant make the plates more neg allowing the spring to get more clearance. Fully turned the rim rubs the spring and perch and when using the camber bolts it pushed the top of the wheel away from the strut which makes this problem fixed as well. I do have a problem i cant figure out though, when going over 35 when i turned right even only 1/4 turn of the wheel i am getting a thump from the pass side thats a rotational noise such as the wheel hitting something. I dont know how im going to find this, it could be the spring its rubbing one. It is worse now than it was when i had the camber bolts in.

zero2005

i have the same problem!! QA1 is ****. im looking to sell mine on craigslist and get a UPR front end.

dunno if crash bolts would work, seems like it should. my idea was basically the same thing to fix it by using a solid steel bracket that pushes the bottom the the strut inwards. the only problem i could see would be turning the wheel you would have to see if the strut moves in an arc to interfere with anything.

lemme know if the crash bolts work - i might consider not selling the crap QA1 and keep it and just ugprade my struts like i plan on doing anyways.

edit: btw, the springs hittin the strut tower caused it to rub against my struts grinding off a bit of the threads - not enough to make them non adjustable but still, now part of my craptastic black expensive for no reason QA1 struts are silver lol. god i cant wait to get koni's or bilsteins.

uberstang1

I got the qa1 k member, upr a arms, and upr coilovers, and upr 4 bolt CCs, and no problems whatsoever.

cisurfer

The crash bolts do work. I used to have them in there but I wanted to try again to see if I could get away without them. Unfortunately I have go use them. People say not to but what evidence do they have? Steed sells them I highly doubt they would sell a unsafe product that is use for racing. Alignment shops use them on most cars to acheive proper alignment. What they do when used in the positive camber setting it will push the top of the wheel/tire away from the strut and spring. It makes a lot of room for clearance and eliminates all rubbing. You will be positive camber so you much adjust the cc plate to make it more negative again which will move the top of the spring away from hitting the strut tower like my other problem. The problem with your springs rubbing on the threads is a qa1 spring problem. Either they bow or they aren't centered. I looked at my where the were rubbing on the strut and closely look at gap between the coil and strut. It's not equal spacing around the spring/strut. You want the smallest gap toward the inside of the car so the largest gaps are facing the front rear and out of car. This will help with the rubbing it did with mine. I do however have a click/thumping or rubbing sound while turning right was minimal until I removed crashed bolts now is a ton worse. I gotta put them in tonight maybe it'll go away since it just started 2 weeks ago after you install the bolts you need to adjust your toe because you'll be toed in alot

cisurfer

What size springs are you both running. I have 14" 175lbs. I heard the 12" doesn't rub due to the spring being 2" shorter the bottom will be 2" higher up on the sleeve above the wheel

cisurfer

Also zero what setup are you running? Qa1 arms as well?

Kmelfi11

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...n_page=install

check out the coil over install, MM has a tool to bend those flanges.

zero2005

i'm runnin the full QA1 kit, struts, a-arms (with poly bushings), k-member.
i'm running Maximum Motorsport CC plates.

i have ran 14x175 and 12x225 (mainly to try and fix QA1's crappy noise as hell **** *** struts).

hey uber, have you ever ran the QA1 arms? i was thinking the UPR arms would fix my problem, since the designs look similiar and the arms are probably shorter, the shorter arms would fix the problem in a snap -- the same way the crash bolts would. i asked UPR and they said "no it wont work" but i think they were just trying to sell me the whole kit. i also thought about just getting some fox arms.

you can blatantly tell that the a-arms are too long, being that the front wheels look more in line with the edge of the fender, and then if you look at the back end and see that the wheels are tucked in slightly your like "wtf?".

and its not just the flanges -- the spring -- at least mine does -- hits the actual tower. the only thing to do, would be to use a hammer to shape it, or bring the bottom of the strut inwards, either by crash bolt, or shorter arms, or maybe some sort of bracket.

i might just be a guinea pig and order up some UPR arms to test them to see if they fix it. good thing i got my tax return, damn car is getting expensive. lol.