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Old 03-20-2011, 10:10 PM   #11
cliffyk
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Here's the intake RnR from the shop manual.

There is no need to disconnect the fuel line (step 3), and when you pull the fuel rails (step 29) go gently and make sure the injectors stay in the rail (and that the fuel pressure has been relieved¹)--if this is done there will be practically no fuel spillage.

Here's the mess I found when I opened it up:

Click the image to open in full size.

and almost ready to go back together, before I cleaned up the valley:

Click the image to open in full size.

--------------------------------------
¹ - Here's the procedure for relieving the fuel pressure if you have a Schrader valve of the fuel rail, and if not. The "if not" procedure does not require any drain hose and is less messy.
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Last edited by cliffyk; 03-20-2011 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:31 PM   #12
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Its funny the same cylinder intake runners are stained with oil with your engine as mine was. The middle two ports on my passenger side intake runner on the block were totally black with oil like yours too(84k miles). With the other ports being partially oil stained as well.

Just so you know. With Windows 7, the most recent version of firefox, and most recent version adobe that "if not" link came up as a gibberish language instead of english. I do not have a schrader valve. When I went to dry my fuel system up for my kenne bell install I just yanked the fuse for the fuel pump and cranked the engine three times. She actually fired right up on the first crank about 10 mins after pulling the fuse but died quick. I was surprised.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangwire View Post
Its funny the same cylinder intake runners are stained with oil with your engine as mine was. The middle two ports on my passenger side intake runner on the block were totally black with oil like yours too(84k miles). With the other ports being partially oil stained as well.
Been my experience that that's what intake ports of engines with 84k to 105k (mine) look like, it creates no problems--the volume of the coating (from blow back during valve overlap) is a very small fraction of the port volume. Years ago we flow bench tested manifolds and TBs with blow back crud, side-by-side with new ones, and found no meaningful difference in flow capacity.

Quote:
Just so you know. With Windows 7, the most recent version of firefox, and most recent version adobe that "if not" link came up as a gibberish language instead of english.
Odd? I just opened it with Acrobat Pro 7.0, Reader 9.0, and PDF Annotator; and IE 8.0, Chrome, Opera, and FireFox with no problems--XP Pro though. What version of Acrobat are you running?

I have no experience with Windows 7, probably never will as I am in the process of moving over to Linux.

Quote:
I do not have a schrader valve. When I went to dry my fuel system up for my kenne bell install I just yanked the fuse for the fuel pump and cranked the engine three times. She actually fired right up on the first crank about 10 mins after pulling the fuse but died quick. I was surprised.
They dropped the Schrader value sometime during the '03 MY, mine made in March of 2003 does not have it--I've seen some made in Fall of 2002 that do. The December 2003 shop manual says it does, the 2004 Manual says no.

I've seen the fuel pressure hold at 25 to 30psi for 30 to 45 minutes after shutdown, sometimes even longer.
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:17 PM   #14
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cliffyk -- so if I have a shrader valve, but no fuel pressure gauge, should I just use the "not" method?
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:21 PM   #15
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Some other questions right off the bat:

1) It says "Disconnect fuel line" ... does this require a special tool? I have some plastic ones from when I took the LT1 intake off, but I don't know if they're universal.
2) Does any of this require the car be on ramps or jackstands or can it all be done from the top? The Chilton's said get down under the car and remove the EGR or something. I don't understand why or if that's accurate.
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroTX View Post
Some other questions right off the bat:

1) It says "Disconnect fuel line" ... does this require a special tool? I have some plastic ones from when I took the LT1 intake off, but I don't know if they're universal.
"There is no need to disconnect the fuel line (step 3)"--from the 2nd paragraph of my post up above.

Quote:
2) Does any of this require the car be on ramps or jackstands or can it all be done from the top? The Chilton's said get down under the car and remove the EGR or something. I don't understand why or if that's accurate.
No, once the EGR tube is disconnected from the EGR valve (step 15 in the factory manual procedure) there is enough space to sneak the manifold out and back in...

edit:
------------------------------------------
Re: fuel pressure relief;

If you left the car sit overnight there will be little to no remaining pressure. That's what I did, so there was no need to go through the process at all.

If the system is pressurised, and with out having a drain hose that fits the Schrader valve, I would use the "no valve" process. That said, in a pinch, I have put a wad of paper towels (or better yet a toddler size Pampers) around the valve and pushed the plunger with a small screwdriver--only 2 or 3 ounces of fuel will come out, but it can come out with a vengeance with 40psi behind it...
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Delta Force tuned, Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel,
RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq


Engineering is, at its base, making what you want from what you have.
At its extreme it is making what you want from what you can get.

Last edited by cliffyk; 03-21-2011 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangwire View Post
I really don't know how in the hell people manage to crack this intake so often in such weird ways.
It's cheap plastic, that's how.

Mine cracked pretty much in the same spot.
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:16 PM   #18
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Actually it's pretty high quality plastic, but it is plastic and 8-years old in my case...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum,
Delta Force tuned, Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel,
RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq


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At its extreme it is making what you want from what you can get.
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:07 PM   #19
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10 years old in this case.... car was made almost exactly 10 years ago this month.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:26 AM   #20
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11 years......winning
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:26 AM
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