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HELP! Cracked intake manifold '01 GT

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Old 03-20-2011, 12:13 AM   #1
ZeroTX
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Default HELP! Cracked intake manifold '01 GT

My manifold cracked on the back, where the coolant line connects to the heater core. It snapped off the brittle plastic connector on the intake manifold itself. This is the second crack on this manifold. The other was up by the sensor, but was fixed with JB Weld. I don't think this one is fixable.

Any good write-ups on the intake manifold swap?

Anyone tried the revised Ford part? Opinions?

Anyone tried the Professional Products all aluminum intake? It's supposed to be a 25hp gain, plus pretty much a guarantee no of no more plastic cracking.

Advice welcome! I'm NEW to Fords. If you live in the Houston area and want to help me with this, please says so

-Michael
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Old 03-20-2011, 01:10 AM   #2
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What about the Pro Comp aluminum intake? $350? Too good to be true?
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:43 AM   #3
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I had the exact same thing happen to my 01 GT a few years ago. Simple fix; Remove the intake, cutoff the cheap plastic hose attachment point, install a properly sized brass hose coupler, JB weld the **** out of it. Then give it a day to dry and reinstall. I dealt with coolant leaks for months until I did this. Never had issue afterward.
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Old 03-20-2011, 05:13 AM   #4
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I figured I couldn't be alone on this one! What a mess! I just hope I didn't damage the engine. It literally blew off and the temp gauge never even went up. I only pulled over because of a huge quantity of detonation that started, and the engine died as I pulled into the grass on the median. It still starts/runs (I turn it off after 10 seconds, as it's dry, it ran out most of the coolant), so I can move it ever-so-briefly in the driveway (had it towed home).

That said, if I take the time to remove the entire intake manifold, an entire new intake manifold is gonna go back on there! I'm just deciding which one. It already has a JB weld fix up on the front of the intake manifold and if nothing else I'll get the genuine Ford replacement ($199 online, free shipping). I was just wondering if anyone had tried an all aluminum intake and if any of them were worth it for a car that is just gonna be a bolt-on for now? I may do mild cams, headers, CAI, and a tune.

Thanks!

-Michael
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:04 AM   #5
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I really don't know how in the hell people manage to crack this intake so often in such weird ways. To answer your question no the aluminum ones are not ideal for your setup, they change air flow big time and are almost always made for higher HP N/A setups with headwork and cams. You will likely lose power in key locations of your powerband.

I have my stock plastic intake still sitting in my garage from when I swapped the KB on. It had around 85k miles on it and is in great condition. Don't see how some randomly crack like that.
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:20 PM   #6
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There's a scalar value in the tune, Air Manifold Volume, that is as the name implies the intake manifold volume, in litres. The PCM uses this value when the throttle position changes to anticipate fueling needs, and for other calculations. The value for most new-edge 2V tunes is 9.625L.

If the intake manifold volume changes more than +/- 10% this value musty be changed accordingly.
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:27 PM   #7
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ive got 2 stocker manifolds with the aluminum crossover for sale in the parts for sale section, both came off the cars with less than 30k miles. Thats if you don't decide to go aftermarket that is.
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:07 PM   #8
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i had this happen to me a couple of months ago. i asked around if the typhoon was worth the money and 99% of people said no. so i just bought the ford racing plastic replacement part for ~190. it was not bad at all to install. quite easy IMO
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Old 03-20-2011, 03:15 PM   #9
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Mine let go a couple months ago, 3/4: inch of the rearmost inner wall of the sealing ring groove for the larger passage on the driver's side was just gone; and it was leaking from the backside of the crossover under the T-stat.

I went and looked at the Dorman manifold at Autozone and couldn't bring myself to do it--it (the Dorman manifold) is a universal, fits every PI 4.6 2V ever installed in any Ford, "thing" that comes with all sorts of brackets and spacers to adapt the thermostat housing and generator mount. The lower plenum is also only about 75% of the volume of the stock GT manifold.

So, I cleaned it all up with scrapers and wire brushes, degreased everything, and put it back together with suitable amounts of J-B Weld. I mounted the crossover to the manifold and waited 4 hours for the J-B to set up a bit; then mounted it onto the engine, torqued it down and let it sit for another 15 hours before refilling the coolant.

It's been and 2.5k+ miles since then, not leaking a drop (knock on J-B Weld)...
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:00 PM   #10
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Yeah, the plastic was just very brittle. The pieces left inside the hose crumbled when I removed them.

Any write-ups on intake manifold swap? Am I in for any surprises? I have taken a manifold off on an LT1, but never a Ford.

Thanks,

Michael
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:10 PM   #11
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Here's the intake RnR from the shop manual.

There is no need to disconnect the fuel line (step 3), and when you pull the fuel rails (step 29) go gently and make sure the injectors stay in the rail (and that the fuel pressure has been relieved¹)--if this is done there will be practically no fuel spillage.

Here's the mess I found when I opened it up:

Click the image to open in full size.

and almost ready to go back together, before I cleaned up the valley:

Click the image to open in full size.

--------------------------------------
¹ - Here's the procedure for relieving the fuel pressure if you have a Schrader valve of the fuel rail, and if not. The "if not" procedure does not require any drain hose and is less messy.
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Last edited by cliffyk; 03-20-2011 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:31 PM   #12
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Its funny the same cylinder intake runners are stained with oil with your engine as mine was. The middle two ports on my passenger side intake runner on the block were totally black with oil like yours too(84k miles). With the other ports being partially oil stained as well.

Just so you know. With Windows 7, the most recent version of firefox, and most recent version adobe that "if not" link came up as a gibberish language instead of english. I do not have a schrader valve. When I went to dry my fuel system up for my kenne bell install I just yanked the fuse for the fuel pump and cranked the engine three times. She actually fired right up on the first crank about 10 mins after pulling the fuse but died quick. I was surprised.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangwire View Post
Its funny the same cylinder intake runners are stained with oil with your engine as mine was. The middle two ports on my passenger side intake runner on the block were totally black with oil like yours too(84k miles). With the other ports being partially oil stained as well.
Been my experience that that's what intake ports of engines with 84k to 105k (mine) look like, it creates no problems--the volume of the coating (from blow back during valve overlap) is a very small fraction of the port volume. Years ago we flow bench tested manifolds and TBs with blow back crud, side-by-side with new ones, and found no meaningful difference in flow capacity.

Quote:
Just so you know. With Windows 7, the most recent version of firefox, and most recent version adobe that "if not" link came up as a gibberish language instead of english.
Odd? I just opened it with Acrobat Pro 7.0, Reader 9.0, and PDF Annotator; and IE 8.0, Chrome, Opera, and FireFox with no problems--XP Pro though. What version of Acrobat are you running?

I have no experience with Windows 7, probably never will as I am in the process of moving over to Linux.

Quote:
I do not have a schrader valve. When I went to dry my fuel system up for my kenne bell install I just yanked the fuse for the fuel pump and cranked the engine three times. She actually fired right up on the first crank about 10 mins after pulling the fuse but died quick. I was surprised.
They dropped the Schrader value sometime during the '03 MY, mine made in March of 2003 does not have it--I've seen some made in Fall of 2002 that do. The December 2003 shop manual says it does, the 2004 Manual says no.

I've seen the fuel pressure hold at 25 to 30psi for 30 to 45 minutes after shutdown, sometimes even longer.
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:17 PM   #14
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cliffyk -- so if I have a shrader valve, but no fuel pressure gauge, should I just use the "not" method?
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:21 PM   #15
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Some other questions right off the bat:

1) It says "Disconnect fuel line" ... does this require a special tool? I have some plastic ones from when I took the LT1 intake off, but I don't know if they're universal.
2) Does any of this require the car be on ramps or jackstands or can it all be done from the top? The Chilton's said get down under the car and remove the EGR or something. I don't understand why or if that's accurate.
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroTX View Post
Some other questions right off the bat:

1) It says "Disconnect fuel line" ... does this require a special tool? I have some plastic ones from when I took the LT1 intake off, but I don't know if they're universal.
"There is no need to disconnect the fuel line (step 3)"--from the 2nd paragraph of my post up above.

Quote:
2) Does any of this require the car be on ramps or jackstands or can it all be done from the top? The Chilton's said get down under the car and remove the EGR or something. I don't understand why or if that's accurate.
No, once the EGR tube is disconnected from the EGR valve (step 15 in the factory manual procedure) there is enough space to sneak the manifold out and back in...

edit:
------------------------------------------
Re: fuel pressure relief;

If you left the car sit overnight there will be little to no remaining pressure. That's what I did, so there was no need to go through the process at all.

If the system is pressurised, and with out having a drain hose that fits the Schrader valve, I would use the "no valve" process. That said, in a pinch, I have put a wad of paper towels (or better yet a toddler size Pampers) around the valve and pushed the plunger with a small screwdriver--only 2 or 3 ounces of fuel will come out, but it can come out with a vengeance with 40psi behind it...
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Last edited by cliffyk; 03-21-2011 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangwire View Post
I really don't know how in the hell people manage to crack this intake so often in such weird ways.
It's cheap plastic, that's how.

Mine cracked pretty much in the same spot.
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:16 PM   #18
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Actually it's pretty high quality plastic, but it is plastic and 8-years old in my case...
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:07 PM   #19
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10 years old in this case.... car was made almost exactly 10 years ago this month.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:26 AM   #20
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11 years......winning
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:26 AM
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