Seats + steering wheel?
#1
Seats + steering wheel?
Just wondering if anyone knows of a good company that makes affordable aftermarket seats. i like the corbeau GTS II and how its not overly aggressive "Type R" ricer looking, yet still seems like its a good seat. the only problem i have is the pricing. 700$ a pair without brackets
also, anyone know of any good decent brand steering wheels? my stock one is kinda nasty and i'm not a huge fan of the grip and how large it is. all i can seem to find are those cheapy 20$ racing crapola steering wheels, kinda skeptical of them, altho i guess really its just a wheel and hub? i dont need an airbag or cruise controls (i'll probably mount the seperate on dash panel)
also, anyone know of any good decent brand steering wheels? my stock one is kinda nasty and i'm not a huge fan of the grip and how large it is. all i can seem to find are those cheapy 20$ racing crapola steering wheels, kinda skeptical of them, altho i guess really its just a wheel and hub? i dont need an airbag or cruise controls (i'll probably mount the seperate on dash panel)
#3
bleh. 80$ for a hub? jeezus. lol i can get on ebay and get a cheapo chinese wheel for like 30$ and that includes a hub. for 80$ that **** better be made out of titanium or something.
yea the forza isnt exactly my style. i love the look of the GTS II's though, just wish someone made em cheaper.
yea the forza isnt exactly my style. i love the look of the GTS II's though, just wish someone made em cheaper.
#4
bleh. 80$ for a hub? jeezus. lol i can get on ebay and get a cheapo chinese wheel for like 30$ and that includes a hub. for 80$ that **** better be made out of titanium or something.
yea the forza isnt exactly my style. i love the look of the GTS II's though, just wish someone made em cheaper.
yea the forza isnt exactly my style. i love the look of the GTS II's though, just wish someone made em cheaper.
#5
not really worried about fading. just functionality. i can always repaint it. was planning on getting a generic black one with some plain jane black leather then just painting the inner metal portion red to match once i paint the whole car.
some the GT grant wheels are definately priced better than the MOMO's. it just amazes me how some of those wheels are like 300$.. dude, its a freakin steering wheel... cmon... it goes around in a circle... dont over complicate things.. damn manufacturers...
some the GT grant wheels are definately priced better than the MOMO's. it just amazes me how some of those wheels are like 300$.. dude, its a freakin steering wheel... cmon... it goes around in a circle... dont over complicate things.. damn manufacturers...
#6
I suggest a Grant as well. I know everybody loves to hate on them, but I've got a little 13 inch that's been on my '87 Jeep Wrangler for 10 or more years I guess? It's been there since we got the jeep, so it's probably older than that! It's held up fine really. I mean heck, my jeep is a HEAP to begin with, so the steering wheel is nice in comparison, haha.
#7
lol well i might try the ebay crap first. just because it seems like if it fades or breaks i wont care as much as an 80-100$ steering wheel...
but what about the airbag? do i need a module to keep the ECU happy or will i get an SES light?
but what about the airbag? do i need a module to keep the ECU happy or will i get an SES light?
#9
I have several steering wheels, from Grant and Momo mostly. All mount to a Momo hub (their p/n 4525) modified to accept the Grant 5-screw mount on addition to the 6-screw wheels.
I swap them out now and them as the whim strikes, however my favourite is a Grant 714, I keep coming back to it:
The steering column cover is the bottom of a 6" wedding cake pan from Walmart; cut off about 1/4" from the base, and reworked a bit at the bottom. The Momo hub has a slip ring for the horn switch, I made a brush holder that mounts in the "cake pan" and passes the horn ground through to the switch in the wheel.
The cruise control switches were replaced with Philmore rocker switches in a custom panel, in the shifter surround--you can see them here:
Here's the wiring diagram for the CC switches:
The switches and resistors provide a series of different voltages, depending on selected function, to the speed control servo which determines the desired function from the applied voltage.
The airbag module is fooled by placing a 2.3Ω resistor across the squib wires. The module tests the squib by passing a low voltage, current controlled signal through it--as the squib's resistance is 2.3Ω all you need to do is hook up the resistor and the module is happy.
As 2.3Ω is not a standard value I used two 4.7Ω resistors in parallel. I used 1/4W resistors as the test current is so low; they would blow if the module tried to explode the airbag, however I suspect that would be the least of my problems as that time.
All connections the harness were made with male "spade" connectors cut from brass sheet, inserted into the stock female harness connectors, making it all easily reversible if needed.
I swap them out now and them as the whim strikes, however my favourite is a Grant 714, I keep coming back to it:
The steering column cover is the bottom of a 6" wedding cake pan from Walmart; cut off about 1/4" from the base, and reworked a bit at the bottom. The Momo hub has a slip ring for the horn switch, I made a brush holder that mounts in the "cake pan" and passes the horn ground through to the switch in the wheel.
The cruise control switches were replaced with Philmore rocker switches in a custom panel, in the shifter surround--you can see them here:
Here's the wiring diagram for the CC switches:
The switches and resistors provide a series of different voltages, depending on selected function, to the speed control servo which determines the desired function from the applied voltage.
The airbag module is fooled by placing a 2.3Ω resistor across the squib wires. The module tests the squib by passing a low voltage, current controlled signal through it--as the squib's resistance is 2.3Ω all you need to do is hook up the resistor and the module is happy.
As 2.3Ω is not a standard value I used two 4.7Ω resistors in parallel. I used 1/4W resistors as the test current is so low; they would blow if the module tried to explode the airbag, however I suspect that would be the least of my problems as that time.
All connections the harness were made with male "spade" connectors cut from brass sheet, inserted into the stock female harness connectors, making it all easily reversible if needed.
Last edited by cliffyk; 02-17-2012 at 07:29 PM.
#10