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Old 07-12-2011, 09:55 PM   #11
69MustangCoupe393cid
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Originally Posted by Blackvenom01 View Post
pilot bearing throwout bearing clutch flywheel and maybe a rear main seal if yours seems to be alittle moist...spec is good so is centerforce...dont overdo the clutch get one that holds maybe about 60 to 100 hp and torque then what you currently make....also depends on your plans for the future
Yeah I only plan on getting a stage 1, I don't plan on anymore mods then I have now and need a nice streetable clutch. Also why a new flywheel? Or do you just mean resurface?




My stage 2 in my SHO felt lighter than my stock clutch, but then again my stock clutch was thrashed. But still, not bad for a DD car.
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Old 07-19-2011, 06:43 PM   #12
69MustangCoupe393cid
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Ok so this thread kinda died, but I might be buying this stuff soon. So during the clutch install replace/inspect the following:

1) Clutch
2) Resurface flywheel
3) Clutch fork (if worn)
4) Ball pivot (if worn)
5) Throw out bearing
6) Pilot bearing
7) Rear main (if leaking)
8 Clutch cable (do I really have to do this?)

Is there anything else I missed that I should replace? Or is there anything else I should know for doing this? I'm not sure if I'm going to do this myself or have my mechanic do it, it depends on what he's going to charge.
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:18 AM   #13
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Do it yourself!!! people here will help you, the experience is well rewarding. Best advice is Rent a big *** jack or buy one for this project!! I actualy used the jack to move the tranny up/down/left/right. A buddy will help when your pulling it out and putting the tranny back in, but is no biggie if you have no friends. 2nd BIG TIP loosen your motor mounts and tilt the engine back to help get the top bolts to the block. Other then the Two top bolts it's not that difficult of a job. Go ahead and replace Rear main even if it's not leaking!!! because it will leak before your 3rd clutch. For a 10 buck part and to avoid doing it all over again. Dont go aftermarket TOB, stay ford racing!!, other then that your right on with your 1-8 list. Save the 600-800 bucks you would have spent in labor and use it to mod your horse.
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Last edited by coolbreezex82x; 07-20-2011 at 03:20 AM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:05 PM   #14
69MustangCoupe393cid
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Originally Posted by coolbreezex82x View Post
Do it yourself!!! people here will help you, the experience is well rewarding. Best advice is Rent a big *** jack or buy one for this project!! I actualy used the jack to move the tranny up/down/left/right. A buddy will help when your pulling it out and putting the tranny back in, but is no biggie if you have no friends. 2nd BIG TIP loosen your motor mounts and tilt the engine back to help get the top bolts to the block. Other then the Two top bolts it's not that difficult of a job. Go ahead and replace Rear main even if it's not leaking!!! because it will leak before your 3rd clutch. For a 10 buck part and to avoid doing it all over again. Dont go aftermarket TOB, stay ford racing!!, other then that your right on with your 1-8 list. Save the 600-800 bucks you would have spent in labor and use it to mod your horse.
Well this is still my factory clutch, but I suppose it's not a bad idea to change the rear main. I've just had bad experiences with preventative seal maintenance in the past haha. But as far as the mechanic doing it I doubt mine would want more than 400 bucks which is why I'm debating doing it myself. I'm by no means a noob when it comes to this stuff, but it's my first RWD clutch job.

EDIT: Couple more tings, how many hours do you think it will take me start to end? Also is there some type of TOB magnet or something to keep the TOB from riding the clutch when the clutch isn't depressed? I feel like that's part of why the TOB dies before the clutch.

Last edited by 69MustangCoupe393cid; 07-20-2011 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:38 AM   #15
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people will flame this, but the clutch is designed to SLIGHTLY ride the fingers, your stock quad will always keep just enough slack to let it slightly ride. I hated the idea and bought a return spring kit from some company online, you will need google for it, but it's a spring that holds the clutch fork back and lets there be a tiny space between fingers and tob. a solid quad and firewall adjuster are required for this return spring. was only like 30 bucks and makes my clutch feel solid with no play at all. With no friend help from start to finnish prob around 6-8 hours.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:43 AM   #16
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Found it

http://www.lethalperformance.com/99-...on-kit-p-16966

This is the same setup that almost EVERY car manf does but ford... might not need another tob for the life of your car :P You can probably get this kit and buy a firewall adjuster and solid quad and do your clutch few years from now if you wanted.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:28 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by coolbreezex82x View Post
people will flame this, but the clutch is designed to SLIGHTLY ride the fingers, your stock quad will always keep just enough slack to let it slightly ride. I hated the idea and bought a return spring kit from some company online, you will need google for it, but it's a spring that holds the clutch fork back and lets there be a tiny space between fingers and tob. a solid quad and firewall adjuster are required for this return spring. was only like 30 bucks and makes my clutch feel solid with no play at all. With no friend help from start to finnish prob around 6-8 hours.
return magnet works too... old hard drives have awesome magnets for this.
with that return spring, does it add any sort of extra pedal effort? i've heard this is the case with most of the springs and one of the reasons i would rather a magnet.
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:20 AM   #18
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i would get a new flywheel rather then resurface cause you dont know if thats already been done...you taking off metal making it thinner making it easier to get heat spots! you either have to resurface or replace and i say replace also depends what it looks like when you pull it out

yes do it yourself if you can its fairly simple have a friend help you and buy him a case of beer for it cause once its done both you guys will feel good that you did something like this
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:47 AM   #19
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when i looked into resurfacing (besides the fact i needed a new flywheel because i went from 6 bolt to an 8 bolt flywheel), it was more expensive to get a flywheel resurfaced than to buy a brand new flywheel. i got mine shipped to my door for 65$. i got quoted 75 for a resurface job.

alternatively you could get a flywheel that has replaceable friction discs...
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QA1 tubular front end, QA1 C/O struts (GARBAGE! AVOID QA1!)
MMR750, MHS stage 1 heads, stage 2 turbo cams, Spec stage 2+
Megasquirt firing LS1 truck coils. Edelbrock Vic Jr & Holley 4778 Carb.
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:53 PM   #20
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return magnet works too... old hard drives have awesome magnets for this.
with that return spring, does it add any sort of extra pedal effort? i've heard this is the case with most of the springs and one of the reasons i would rather a magnet.
I have about 15 of those all over my oil filters haha How could I put them in the trans to hold the TOB back? Gorilla glue? haha If i did that it would have to be stuck well. If that fell off it would most likely suck onto the clutch and throw it off balance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zero2005 View Post
when i looked into resurfacing (besides the fact i needed a new flywheel because i went from 6 bolt to an 8 bolt flywheel), it was more expensive to get a flywheel resurfaced than to buy a brand new flywheel. i got mine shipped to my door for 65$. i got quoted 75 for a resurface job.

alternatively you could get a flywheel that has replaceable friction discs...
Where in the hell did you find a new flywheel for 65 bucks? If that's the case then yes I would buy new so long as it's a Ford piece or better. But I've always resurfaced and never had a problem.
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:53 PM
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