What to replace with clutch install and which to buy?
#11
pilot bearing throwout bearing clutch flywheel and maybe a rear main seal if yours seems to be alittle moist...spec is good so is centerforce...dont overdo the clutch get one that holds maybe about 60 to 100 hp and torque then what you currently make....also depends on your plans for the future
My stage 2 in my SHO felt lighter than my stock clutch, but then again my stock clutch was thrashed. But still, not bad for a DD car.
#12
Ok so this thread kinda died, but I might be buying this stuff soon. So during the clutch install replace/inspect the following:
1) Clutch
2) Resurface flywheel
3) Clutch fork (if worn)
4) Ball pivot (if worn)
5) Throw out bearing
6) Pilot bearing
7) Rear main (if leaking)
8 Clutch cable (do I really have to do this?)
Is there anything else I missed that I should replace? Or is there anything else I should know for doing this? I'm not sure if I'm going to do this myself or have my mechanic do it, it depends on what he's going to charge.
1) Clutch
2) Resurface flywheel
3) Clutch fork (if worn)
4) Ball pivot (if worn)
5) Throw out bearing
6) Pilot bearing
7) Rear main (if leaking)
8 Clutch cable (do I really have to do this?)
Is there anything else I missed that I should replace? Or is there anything else I should know for doing this? I'm not sure if I'm going to do this myself or have my mechanic do it, it depends on what he's going to charge.
#13
Do it yourself!!! people here will help you, the experience is well rewarding. Best advice is Rent a big *** jack or buy one for this project!! I actualy used the jack to move the tranny up/down/left/right. A buddy will help when your pulling it out and putting the tranny back in, but is no biggie if you have no friends. 2nd BIG TIP loosen your motor mounts and tilt the engine back to help get the top bolts to the block. Other then the Two top bolts it's not that difficult of a job. Go ahead and replace Rear main even if it's not leaking!!! because it will leak before your 3rd clutch. For a 10 buck part and to avoid doing it all over again. Dont go aftermarket TOB, stay ford racing!!, other then that your right on with your 1-8 list. Save the 600-800 bucks you would have spent in labor and use it to mod your horse.
Last edited by coolbreezex82x; 07-20-2011 at 02:20 AM.
#14
Do it yourself!!! people here will help you, the experience is well rewarding. Best advice is Rent a big *** jack or buy one for this project!! I actualy used the jack to move the tranny up/down/left/right. A buddy will help when your pulling it out and putting the tranny back in, but is no biggie if you have no friends. 2nd BIG TIP loosen your motor mounts and tilt the engine back to help get the top bolts to the block. Other then the Two top bolts it's not that difficult of a job. Go ahead and replace Rear main even if it's not leaking!!! because it will leak before your 3rd clutch. For a 10 buck part and to avoid doing it all over again. Dont go aftermarket TOB, stay ford racing!!, other then that your right on with your 1-8 list. Save the 600-800 bucks you would have spent in labor and use it to mod your horse.
EDIT: Couple more tings, how many hours do you think it will take me start to end? Also is there some type of TOB magnet or something to keep the TOB from riding the clutch when the clutch isn't depressed? I feel like that's part of why the TOB dies before the clutch.
Last edited by 69MustangCoupe393cid; 07-20-2011 at 05:08 PM.
#15
people will flame this, but the clutch is designed to SLIGHTLY ride the fingers, your stock quad will always keep just enough slack to let it slightly ride. I hated the idea and bought a return spring kit from some company online, you will need google for it, but it's a spring that holds the clutch fork back and lets there be a tiny space between fingers and tob. a solid quad and firewall adjuster are required for this return spring. was only like 30 bucks and makes my clutch feel solid with no play at all. With no friend help from start to finnish prob around 6-8 hours.
#16
Found it
http://www.lethalperformance.com/99-...on-kit-p-16966
This is the same setup that almost EVERY car manf does but ford... might not need another tob for the life of your car :P You can probably get this kit and buy a firewall adjuster and solid quad and do your clutch few years from now if you wanted.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/99-...on-kit-p-16966
This is the same setup that almost EVERY car manf does but ford... might not need another tob for the life of your car :P You can probably get this kit and buy a firewall adjuster and solid quad and do your clutch few years from now if you wanted.
#17
people will flame this, but the clutch is designed to SLIGHTLY ride the fingers, your stock quad will always keep just enough slack to let it slightly ride. I hated the idea and bought a return spring kit from some company online, you will need google for it, but it's a spring that holds the clutch fork back and lets there be a tiny space between fingers and tob. a solid quad and firewall adjuster are required for this return spring. was only like 30 bucks and makes my clutch feel solid with no play at all. With no friend help from start to finnish prob around 6-8 hours.
with that return spring, does it add any sort of extra pedal effort? i've heard this is the case with most of the springs and one of the reasons i would rather a magnet.
#18
i would get a new flywheel rather then resurface cause you dont know if thats already been done...you taking off metal making it thinner making it easier to get heat spots! you either have to resurface or replace and i say replace also depends what it looks like when you pull it out
yes do it yourself if you can its fairly simple have a friend help you and buy him a case of beer for it cause once its done both you guys will feel good that you did something like this
yes do it yourself if you can its fairly simple have a friend help you and buy him a case of beer for it cause once its done both you guys will feel good that you did something like this
#19
when i looked into resurfacing (besides the fact i needed a new flywheel because i went from 6 bolt to an 8 bolt flywheel), it was more expensive to get a flywheel resurfaced than to buy a brand new flywheel. i got mine shipped to my door for 65$. i got quoted 75 for a resurface job.
alternatively you could get a flywheel that has replaceable friction discs...
alternatively you could get a flywheel that has replaceable friction discs...
#20
when i looked into resurfacing (besides the fact i needed a new flywheel because i went from 6 bolt to an 8 bolt flywheel), it was more expensive to get a flywheel resurfaced than to buy a brand new flywheel. i got mine shipped to my door for 65$. i got quoted 75 for a resurface job.
alternatively you could get a flywheel that has replaceable friction discs...
alternatively you could get a flywheel that has replaceable friction discs...