What to replace with clutch install and which to buy?
#1
What to replace with clutch install and which to buy?
Ok so my TOB started making some noise and I want to be prepared. I read a bunch of stuff about how the Centerforce clutch is the most popular but I wanted to get some input on it. The car (2000 GT) only has basic bolt-ons and the factory clutch is holding ok. So I figure a stage 1 is probably a good choice, but I was wondering which one you guys recommend.
Also I am going to get the Ford Racing TOB unless you guys think there is a better one. I'll also replace the clutch cable (any brand better than another?) and get a Ford Racing pilot bearing, as well as change trans fluid. But is there anything else I should do while everything is apart?
TIA
Also I am going to get the Ford Racing TOB unless you guys think there is a better one. I'll also replace the clutch cable (any brand better than another?) and get a Ford Racing pilot bearing, as well as change trans fluid. But is there anything else I should do while everything is apart?
TIA
#2
I would definitely stick with a new stock clutch cable. People have had a lot of troubles with pretty much every aftermarket cable.
I had a king cobra clutch and i loved it. At the time I was a bolt-on/cams car and it held great.
I also had a spec stage 2 and I didnt really care for it at all. The clutch effort was way too much for what you get.
I had a king cobra clutch and i loved it. At the time I was a bolt-on/cams car and it held great.
I also had a spec stage 2 and I didnt really care for it at all. The clutch effort was way too much for what you get.
#3
I would definitely stick with a new stock clutch cable. People have had a lot of troubles with pretty much every aftermarket cable.
I had a king cobra clutch and i loved it. At the time I was a bolt-on/cams car and it held great.
I also had a spec stage 2 and I didnt really care for it at all. The clutch effort was way too much for what you get.
I had a king cobra clutch and i loved it. At the time I was a bolt-on/cams car and it held great.
I also had a spec stage 2 and I didnt really care for it at all. The clutch effort was way too much for what you get.
Also yeah I have a spec stage 2 in my SHO and heard a lot of bad things about them. I only have 4k miles on it and I love it, but I'm worried. Granted completely different car, but still I don't know many people who really like them.
#4
You mean an actual Ford cable?
Also yeah I have a spec stage 2 in my SHO and heard a lot of bad things about them. I only have 4k miles on it and I love it, but I'm worried. Granted completely different car, but still I don't know many people who really like them.
Also yeah I have a spec stage 2 in my SHO and heard a lot of bad things about them. I only have 4k miles on it and I love it, but I'm worried. Granted completely different car, but still I don't know many people who really like them.
maybe its just me but ive really never heard anything bad about them?...
#6
As far as spec, myself as well as a few people I know had issues with Spec. Now they said it was a bad run of clutches, which is fine, I understand **** happens. But it was their customer service that sucked and they refused to replace clutches that they openly admitted that there was an issue with. So I don't know if I'll ever buy spec again.
#7
pilot bearing throwout bearing clutch flywheel and maybe a rear main seal if yours seems to be alittle moist...spec is good so is centerforce...dont overdo the clutch get one that holds maybe about 60 to 100 hp and torque then what you currently make....also depends on your plans for the future
#8
The ball pivot is attacked to the bellhousing its what the fork rides on. Ehh if the fingers are god on it and the ball looks good you can just re grease em. I usually just replace for the 30$ or so it costs.
#9
Just to be clear, I never said SPEC was bad or junk. I've actually read a lot of reviews of the SPEC stage 1, stage 3 and stage 3+ where people really liked them. I had the stage 2... which from what I've read, actually requires more pedal effort than the stage 3 (not sure if it's true or not, all I know is that stage 2 was annoyingly stiff).
Your leg adjusts and you make due, but it's really annoying trying to drive anything else with a lighter or hydraulic clutch because you basically have killed any skill you had with fine tune ability and replaced it with leg squats.
Your leg adjusts and you make due, but it's really annoying trying to drive anything else with a lighter or hydraulic clutch because you basically have killed any skill you had with fine tune ability and replaced it with leg squats.
#10
altho i have 0 miles on my spec, i have pressed it plenty of times, and i found it to be only slightly harder than stock. it also had a different "curve" seemed like it was more like on/off with the tension - instead of being progressively smooth and linear...