cbc24

its easy just gotta find something that threads in too ur master where the lines go and rout two clear hoses back in too the master! Make sure the hoses are snug an not sucking air. Put the master in a vise and get a srew driver and push on the cylinder slowly several times. Google it, MAKE SURE ALL WASHERS AN LINES ARE NOT LEAKING

For your brake lines and callipers crack the bleeders and make sure the masters full. It will gravity bleed, when fluids dripping out of each tap each cylinder with a wrench to help work the air out. Tighten each bleeder!
Pump till you feel the pedal harden, start with the RR and when you bleed it tap the caliper to work the air out. Then LR, RF and LF. you should have great pedal feeling. bb

zero2005

30 day "deployment" if you wanna call it that.
think im gunna try the gravity bleed first, how long should it take if i crack all the bleeders open?

if that doesnt work, i'll rig up my own "vacuum bleeder" with a shopvac.

what i did originally was just bolted everything up, filled the MC, then bled each corner by having my dad step on the pedal while i watched for bubbles. once there were no more bubbles i had him stomp on the pedal, then closed the bleeder. did this 3 times in a row, and the pedal was still pretty squishy, started the car up and it got even worse...

whats really odd, is that in the rears, the fluid flows out pretty quick with each compression of the pedal, way more than the fronts. like filling the tiny little bottle that comes with the 1 man bleed kit took like a minute or two, while filling up the bottle half way takes like 6 or 7 minutes of pumping for the fronts. and all i did was swap to J&M Stainless lines from AM.com, swap pads, and i had to replace the drivers front caliper b/c of a snapped bleeder.

MrTDR04

Try it and if its not solved go for the abs job.

foru2nv4

U know its possible the pistons in the MC is bad. Not sure u can buy a rebuild kit.

zero2005

yea. i might replace the MC if i can, just as sort of a preventative measure. still in spain for another 2 weeks so it'll have to wait until i can get back.

foru2nv4

U know what zero..... It doesn't tell you in the haynes manual about the bleeder valves on the MC, Don't know why but that is ur problem. Since you let all the fluid run out of the MC u have air in the MC. If u look to the passengerside of the MC u will see 2 bleeder valves all you have 2 do is same as brakes bleeder valves or calipers what ever u want 2 call it. Have 2nd man pump pump pump pump hold open till to floor close valve do this twice for both bleeders which is front MC and back MC bleeder valve. This will solve ur problem. Trust me u have air in ur MC. Sucks haynes manual is behind on this. It doesn't even metion the bleeders on the MC all it talks about is takin it off and benching it. I have a 2003 mustang GT so I know.

Blackvenom01

def MC first then right rear left rear right front left front...still not good then pop the bleeders every so slightly like a slight drip fill the brake tank full and let it sit for over 24 hours and self bleed!!

Blackvenom01

i mean to say gravity bleed...known alot of corvettes to have to do this

zero2005

there's 2 bleeders on the MC? i only saw 1. i'll have to check again. and yea i'll prolly be doin a gravity bleed too just to make sure. sucks b/c i just painted my front calipers, now the fluids gunna get everywhere (even more so) and strip more off lol... all well...

MrTDR04

That all depends it really shouldn't if you just crack them open. It should only bleed the air out. Just don't open them all the way or yes you are right it will. Hope that this is the end for you so you can enjoy the ride instead of just working on it lol