4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
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Just wondering, whats the best way to bleed the brakes? i have an 03 with traction control & ABS.
i was readnig somewhere that if u let the Master Cylinder drain completely you need to Prime/Bench Bleed the MC? i swapped to stainless steel lines in the front (will do backs later), as well as had to buy a new caliper for the front left b/c the bleeder broke off.
i've bled all 4 corners, and the MC while in the car, but the pedal is still REAL squishy, and with the car on, there's like no pressure at all and it just goes to the floor? i've been considering getting a vacuum bleeder.
also, does the ABS/traction control module have a bleeder? or is there a special "bleed mode"?
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Start with your right rear and bleed it completely through then left rear then right front and final left front. You want to start with the longest line first and work your way down. If there is no improvement then you could have a small MC piston leak or something
You may need to bench bleed it then. Sounds like you have a air lock in it that won't bleed through.
damn... wonder how painful of a process that is.. never done it, only read about it for other cars... was thinkin a vacuum bleed might work, but i'm getting fluid out with the 2 man method and 0 bubbles...
You can try but don't have high hopes for it. Another thing you can try is the old one man break bleed. Start in the morning and just crack open all 4 bleeders just a little and watch the fluid over the day as to makr sure your MC does not empty again and the next morning go out there and close it all up. It's a long process but it might bleed out.
Wow I didn't even think about your abs another thing to try before you go buy that vac. Crack those 4 lines and hot wire the pump you probably have air in there and use the pump to bleed it out or if you have a friend that's a mechanic have him bring his computer over and he can just turn it on from there. A lot less work and could solve everything for ya.
yea maybe. the thing is i get fluid out of all 4 corners when i pump the pedals. im sure there's probably still air in there tho. i'm in spain right now, so it'll have to wait till i get back. been thinking bout getting one of those ABS/TC delete blocks that basically just bypasses everything.
its easy just gotta find something that threads in too ur master where the lines go and rout two clear hoses back in too the master! Make sure the hoses are snug an not sucking air. Put the master in a vise and get a srew driver and push on the cylinder slowly several times. Google it, MAKE SURE ALL WASHERS AN LINES ARE NOT LEAKING
For your brake lines and callipers crack the bleeders and make sure the masters full. It will gravity bleed, when fluids dripping out of each tap each cylinder with a wrench to help work the air out. Tighten each bleeder!
Pump till you feel the pedal harden, start with the RR and when you bleed it tap the caliper to work the air out. Then LR, RF and LF. you should have great pedal feeling. bb
30 day "deployment" if you wanna call it that.
think im gunna try the gravity bleed first, how long should it take if i crack all the bleeders open?
if that doesnt work, i'll rig up my own "vacuum bleeder" with a shopvac.
what i did originally was just bolted everything up, filled the MC, then bled each corner by having my dad step on the pedal while i watched for bubbles. once there were no more bubbles i had him stomp on the pedal, then closed the bleeder. did this 3 times in a row, and the pedal was still pretty squishy, started the car up and it got even worse...
whats really odd, is that in the rears, the fluid flows out pretty quick with each compression of the pedal, way more than the fronts. like filling the tiny little bottle that comes with the 1 man bleed kit took like a minute or two, while filling up the bottle half way takes like 6 or 7 minutes of pumping for the fronts. and all i did was swap to J&M Stainless lines from AM.com, swap pads, and i had to replace the drivers front caliper b/c of a snapped bleeder.
U know what zero..... It doesn't tell you in the haynes manual about the bleeder valves on the MC, Don't know why but that is ur problem. Since you let all the fluid run out of the MC u have air in the MC. If u look to the passengerside of the MC u will see 2 bleeder valves all you have 2 do is same as brakes bleeder valves or calipers what ever u want 2 call it. Have 2nd man pump pump pump pump hold open till to floor close valve do this twice for both bleeders which is front MC and back MC bleeder valve. This will solve ur problem. Trust me u have air in ur MC. Sucks haynes manual is behind on this. It doesn't even metion the bleeders on the MC all it talks about is takin it off and benching it. I have a 2003 mustang GT so I know.
def MC first then right rear left rear right front left front...still not good then pop the bleeders every so slightly like a slight drip fill the brake tank full and let it sit for over 24 hours and self bleed!!
there's 2 bleeders on the MC? i only saw 1. i'll have to check again. and yea i'll prolly be doin a gravity bleed too just to make sure. sucks b/c i just painted my front calipers, now the fluids gunna get everywhere (even more so) and strip more off lol... all well...
That all depends it really shouldn't if you just crack them open. It should only bleed the air out. Just don't open them all the way or yes you are right it will. Hope that this is the end for you so you can enjoy the ride instead of just working on it lol
1999 Mustang GT 4.6L
Kenne Bell 1.7 6lb pulley pushing 8lbs non Intercooled
Borla Stinger, Magnaflow X-Pipe w/Cats, Rolled Tips
Bullitt 18x9 in Front with 18x10 in rear
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