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Old 05-18-2014, 03:02 AM   #11
VTX1800N1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddsajin View Post
i only have one problem to try and fix... my brand new breaks squeak and rattle squeak ... regular brand new rotors padded with gold ceramics on all 4 rotors... i have always changed my own breaks and i have never had a problem... i have done probably 20 break jobs.. so not a newbe.. when i changed the breaks in the front owners before me had damaged the face of the piston where the pad contacts... whoever did the break job before me didnt realize that the pads with rivets exposed go to the outside, not the inside. so i cleaned up the face of the piston and put it all together. the rear break were stuck closed... standard c-clamp wouldnt compress the piston. i had to remove the calipers and beat the piston down till it got past the pinch point.. after i got the calipers free again the rear calipers moved easily again.. the breaks were neglected.

all in all its been fun working on her... i just cant figure out the break thing...

i praise you 110Leaded for figuring out this problem that everyone has had...
FTW!!!
Um, you do realize that you have to turn the jack screw on the rear calipers to retract them, right? You can't just push the piston into the caliper. It's part of the parking brake system and the notches in the piston face are for a special tool that engages them in order to turn the piston.

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Old 05-20-2014, 09:58 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by VTX1800N1 View Post
Um, you do realize that you have to turn the jack screw on the rear calipers to retract them, right? You can't just push the piston into the caliper. It's part of the parking brake system and the notches in the piston face are for a special tool that engages them in order to turn the piston.

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well darn... do you think i messed up the rear calipers?? i do remember the notches in the rear calipers now that you mention it... the damage i was talking about was in the front calipers... the little bitty rivets on the brake pads that go on the front were forced on there when somone else did a brake job... the front one were damaged... and now i think i damaged the rear ones.... what do yall think???
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:05 PM   #13
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oh yeah btw the parking brake still works...
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:46 PM   #14
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If you didn't turn the piston back in, and simply beat it into submission, I can't imagine it NOT taking damage.

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Old 05-21-2014, 06:47 PM   #15
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wow that just might explain the squeakiness.... duh.... im an idiot...
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:43 PM   #16
wirewiz39
 
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Default Lil' help?

I have a miss at 1500 rpm, can you show me how to try the COP zip tie fix?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddsajin View Post
i just want to say one thing....

AMAZING!!!! FIX!!!

i just got my dream stang a couple months ago and i have been tuning it up ever since i got it! i love working on my stang.. having 205k miles on my 03 gt isn't too bad but it just means a lot of TLC to get her running right again. started out with the basics...

oil change + oil filter performance of course
all spark plugs Bosch+4 platinum quad spark = awesome
changed 4 cops 1,2,7,8
took fuel rail off and cleaned the injectors
broke the heater line on the firewall so i replaced that
already had a coldair kn&n so recharged the filter = less i have to buy
clean all accessible sensors maf, mas air, throttle body, everything else
water pump broke 3 weeks ago had to replace that = scary screeching sound
replace both indle pulleys = just felt like replacing them
just did the big job of changing the clutch = it will be easier next time
replaced the breaks all the way around pads and rotors
found that the elbow before the pvc was clogged = replaced hose
nipply new tires

thats all i have done to my baby so far... i had this dreaded misfire...
sluggish starting, shifting hard, crusing between 1100 and 1800 rpms seemed anoying and depressing. best discribing of the mis was it felt like someone in a big truck was attached to my bumper tapping his breaks and hitting the gas at the same time every 1-2 secs.... almost like having a bad cold coughing all the time...

anyways i love talking about my stang till im blue in the face...

this ZIP TIE!?!?! trick is awesome!!! it worked immediately!! amazing difference in starting, shifting, and cruzing... there is no misfire anymore...
just drove it today back and forth to work... awesome awesome awesome...

i only have one problem to try and fix... my brand new breaks squeak and rattle squeak ... regular brand new rotors padded with gold ceramics on all 4 rotors... i have always changed my own breaks and i have never had a problem... i have done probably 20 break jobs.. so not a newbe.. when i changed the breaks in the front owners before me had damaged the face of the piston where the pad contacts... whoever did the break job before me didnt realize that the pads with rivets exposed go to the outside, not the inside. so i cleaned up the face of the piston and put it all together. the rear break were stuck closed... standard c-clamp wouldnt compress the piston. i had to remove the calipers and beat the piston down till it got past the pinch point.. after i got the calipers free again the rear calipers moved easily again.. the breaks were neglected.

all in all its been fun working on her... i just cant figure out the break thing...

i praise you 110Leaded for figuring out this problem that everyone has had...
FTW!!!
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Old 06-21-2014, 01:23 PM   #17
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Default LOL' help?

I have a pesky miss at 1500 RPM's an I wonder if you can post a pic of how you fixed yours?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 110Leaded View Post
I posted this by mistake in the 05-12 section so I wanted to post it in the correct 99-04 section for you guys, sorry for the length but I wanted to explain my whole process... Read the red text if you just want to see what the problem was and how I fixed it. I have been driving the car for a week now since I fixed it and it runs like a dream!

I have a 2000 GT, 5 speed with 223k miles on it(yeah it's a lot but I take real good care of it) with some minor engine and exhaust upgrades and a brenspeed tune but nothing crazy. For months upon months now I was having the well known "low rpm hesitation/misfire that would smooth out above about 2000 rpm" problem. The only code it ever threw was a P0171 lean code but I knew that was due to an exhaust leak. Looking around in the forums it seems that these symptoms are relatively common with the 99-04's and no one(at least that I could find) ever really found the reason for these symptoms. Hopefully what I've found out will help some of you out there with the same issues I was having.

Having that many miles, things are bound to be worn out so I started replacing stuff because it really needed it anyways, here is the order of stuff I replaced in my quest to fix the dreaded hesitation/misfire:

Cleaned and re-oiled air filter
COP's - ran better first few mins but hesitation returned
IAC - fixed the stalling out at idle problem, but not the hesitation
Verified TPS was good - was good
Cleaned MAF - didn't do a damn thing
PCV - it just needed a new one but then I realized I had vacuum issues
Vacuum lines - replaced bad rubber lines but still had hesitation
Alternator - diode had gone out on ORIGINAL one, lol
New MAC Prochamber - Original one was rusting through
Fuel filter - time for a new one anyway
New injectors - yeah, they were original too, ran better but still no fix
Cleaned Throttle Body - was filthy but hesitation was still there

All throughout the above process I was searching all the forums to see what I could/should try next
Part of me was saying that maybe I will just have to accept this issue because there are so many miles on the engine and perhaps it was just starting to crap out from wear...

Next possible steps were to check the cam position sensor, the crank sensor, blah blah blah...

Last night I was so over the whole thing I just went back to square 1 and re-thought the problem... I'm an electrical engineer and I just cannot let seemingly simple problems like this go. The best way to describe the symptom is it's almost identical to having just washed the engine and having water in the spark plug wells causing the engine to "skip". That has happened to me in the past but it always goes away after some driving to evapoate the water. So, I took out the COP's 1 by 1 and verified that the plug wells were dry and that the plugs were not loose. Everything was dry as a bone and all plugs were tight. Reassembled everything and started the engine only to have a constant miss where before it was only an intermittent miss at idle!!!! So I made things worse

I remained calm and knew that the only things I touched were the COP's and now I had a constant miss which actually gave me a good opportunity. What I did was unplug each COP, 1 at a time to see if the idle was affected. When I got to the one where there was no change in the idle - that was the COP/cyl causing the miss. Sure enough, 3rd one I tried, cyl.7, had no change when I unplugged the COP. Now I knew exactly where to focus on. I pulled out that COP, plugged in an old plug laying around and started the engine to verify it was producing spark, and it was so WTF?!

Just for giggles I also tested one of my original COP's with the extra plug and it worked too, so I reinstalled the old COP on cyl. 7 and started the engine. It ran fine so now I was really like WTF?!

I turned my attention to the harness connector that plugs onto the COP and the tab that is supposed to keep it from backing off was not there(never has been there best I can tell) so although the connector was "connected", there was nothing keeping the connector from backing off. I pushed on the connector and got it to fully seat but as soon as I took my finger off, it would slide back a little from the dielectric grease I had on the connectors. At that moment it was like angels descended out of heaven singing the Hallelujah Chorus and I finally figured it out! Even though the connector was seemingly "connected" it would slide back just enough to break the contact to the COP pins. This explains why the car ran fine just after installing new plugs, the connector was seated enough right after install but backed off from vibration.

What I did to fix this was take a 12" zip tie(I think it was 12") and feed it between the 2 wires on the back of the connector that plugs onto the COP and loop it around the "ear" on the COP that sticks out and has the screw hole for mounting to the intake. They are not going anywhere now.

For whatever reason, only like 2 or 3 of my COP connectors had the tab intact that would keep them from backing off so I put a zip tie on each of them.


Drove it to work this morning and it was like driving a new car! After living with that annoying misfire/hesitation for so long I had forgotten just how fun this car was to drive!

Hopefully this will help some other people out there and save them some money, all you need is a few zip ties. Not to say that this is the end all be all fix for everyone's hesitation issue, but it sure was for mine and it will give you something to rule out if nothing else. Feel free to email me and I will be happy to send pics of what I did.

Thanks to all of you who post to these forums, you have been an invaluable resource for me and are a great resource for all of us!
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Old 06-25-2014, 06:57 PM   #18
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Default update...

sorry havent updated the progress since then...

well for one, the zip tie fix didnt work.... it gave me false hope for about 3 days... then went back to running like crap and everyday it would seem to do somthing new and worse...

that being said i started looking at what i havent replaced and what i have replaced.... the only thing that stood out like a sore thumb was the fancy spark plugs... everything else that i had replaced was OEM products, except the bosch x4 platnium spark plugs... i did my research on them and they and in fact any "long life" "multi spark" spark plug actually strikes colder.... not good for 4.6l motors... i also met a mustang guru 1 week ago... he told me OEM copper core or titanium are the best, only get single spark... DO NOT EVER GET PLATNIUM, he told me that... so i did what he said, changed out the plugs to copper core single spark. removed the zip ties. put contact grease on the connectors. anti seize on the plug threads. WAMMO!! i dont want to say its fixed just yet, but wowow amazing power. its been 5 days since i changed the plugs, still good.

the bad thing that has happened is the motor and exhuast is full of carbon buildup from the crappy spark plugs. i am going to seafoam my baby and then let yall know how much carbon smoke blows out...

with that said it was the cold sparking spark plugs the whole time...fancy is not always better... autolite single spark coper core is what i have now...

check your spark plugs people our motors dont like platnium or multi spark...

thanks i will update after seafoam...
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:37 PM   #19
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BOSCH = JUNK

I learned that when I had my 94 Super Coupe. Those plugs absolutely suck to change. So now it is usually NGK or Autolite
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:56 AM   #20
110Leaded

 
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Default Another possible cause for hesitation/misfire found...

Hi all, just an update to share the new info I found (you all might already know this but I've never seen it before so I wanted to share).

Since my 2000 GT now has 265k it burns about 3/4 of a quart of oil per 5k miles. I use (and have been for over 200k miles) Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic oil and a Fram Tough Guard filter at every oil change. (Please don't let this turn into a Fram bashing thread, the TG is a great filter and has ALWAYS served me well, that's not what this thread is about!)

Last oil change I let it go a little longer than 5k miles (almost 7k) since I added almost a quart I figured it would be OK as it's synthetic. Well, the hesitation returned with a vengance over about a month period it just kept getting worse and worse. I vacuumed out the spark plug wells as some of them accumulate coolant due to a small intake manifold leak that I will fix someday. That usually fixes the problem and I'm on my way. This time it didn't, hesitation was not any better and that left me scratching my head.

The only thing different about this time is I had let my oil run a little longer than usual, so I started Googling and found an article about the 4.6L timing chain and how they use hydraulic tensioners to keep the chain taught. These hydraulic tensioners use oil from the lubrication system to work and if the wrong viscosity is used, they do not work properly, giving the timing chain some slack and altering the timing which causes skipping and bad performance! The plastic chain guides can also break if this condition is left alone for too long.

I have owned my 00 GT since 2001 and this is the first I have ever read about these tensioners and how finniky(sp?) they can be when it comes to oil viscosity. So I immediately changed the oil and the problem went away instantly.

This issue would only crop up under some specific circumstances, so most of you may never have this happen. I just wanted to share as it does fall under the umbrella of hesitation/misfire and gives you one more thing to rule out.

Here is a link to the original article the above info came from:

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/115


Have a great day!
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:56 AM
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