ford96gtconv

Hey guys I have an 01 GT Frankinstang (PIswap)installed the stage 3 11" RAM HDX Clutch Pressure plate and new flywheel assy from American Muscle. I also bought a new stock cable, already had the aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. The new clutch is so friggin hard no one in my family can push the pedal into drive it but me. Had the King Cobra in it before but this is way stiffer. So 2 weeks ago in the morning and after work for the first 5 minutes it's so hard to push my pedal in I had to adjust the seat way up. After 5 minutes or so it would get a bit better but still real hard?? Monday going to work it felt like the clutch itself was going out, I had to push it to the floor and jam it (alittle grind) the whole way never got easier. On way home the 3rd time I pushed clutch pedal in something snapped. I thought it was the cable but it was the actual clutch pedal pivot shaft up under the dash. The right side where the cable connects snapped off. How hard is this to replace? Will any shaft v6 or V8 work?? Is this my problem or is the clutch coming back out??????
Help..... just got MRI back L4 and L5 are smashed in my back no way I can pull this tranny again by myself..

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uberstang1

That clutch isn't as stiff as your describing so its 1. an issue with the cable alignment or cable. 2. shift fork isn't seated on pivot ball. 3. issue with ur pedal assembly/quadrant.

Stevo86

I would bet that if you pull off the inspection cover you will the the TOB misaligned on the TOF. Also, '01 Mustangs had PI engines to start with so I hope you didn't pay extra for a "PI swapped" 2001 stang.

AMDanBailer

Great clutch choice, the RAM HDX clutch is awesome and will definitely hold a ton of power!

I agree with everything uberstang said above. I would bet that there's either an issue with your cable alignment or cable, shift fork, pedal assembly/quadrant or possibly even the throw out bearing. It sounds like the stiff pedal caused your pedal pivot shaft to snap, so this obviously needs to be fixed now. I would assume the V6 shaft wouldn't fit but I'm not 100% sure. I'm sorry but I don't have a great answer for your final question, your best bet would be to give the ford dealership a call and see if they have any shafts in stock or can get one for you!

I hope this helps. Shoot me a PM if you have any questions or need some assistance!

-Dan

302Travis

I have a 00` gt i bought not long ago with a supposedly stage 2 clutch. No idea brand pr anything. Now it is no where near stiff enough to break anything like what he described. But it is a good bit stiffer than my buddies 02 gt with the factory clutch. I would like to check and make sure nothing is misaligned like ur saying. But what is a TOB or TOF? what does it stand for and what is it? Where is it? Or at least a pic or link to some descriptions. Please help a noob out lol

supersnake67

TOB stands for "Throw out bearing". TOF stands for "Throw out fork", but I've always called it a clutch fork.

ford96gtconv

Don't tell me how hard this clutch is to compress. Something must be wrong, my size 13 boots 6 feet tall and 250lbs I really had to struggle to compress. Any ideas????

ford96gtconv

I stated how the shaft snapped that holds the pedal. Well that is a big job, I also stated how my back is smashed from a car accident. So 2 weeks ago hand full pain pills I start it, pull dash out, steering column, so I get it swapped out. This weekend I get car all back together make sure cable is nice and straight rite into the clutch fork. I try to pry the clutch fork back to install the cable end and the arm will not move. I look up in there, there TOB seems loose when I move towards engine but the P/P will not compress at all. Now again I drove it for 4 months than it just kept getting harder and harder to compress till it broke the Shaft. Any ideas?????? Looking into the inspection the fork and thro out brg look fine, but it will NOT compress thePP when I try putting a Bar on end of fork?????

ford96gtconv

Any one out there, clutch gods???

dawson1112

1 thing comes to mind here.

You say it is difficult to move the clutch fork forward enough to get the cable into it? That indicates the clutch assy is binding some how. When you reinstalled the trans I assume from your previous post you were in pain and eating pills. It is very possible that when you installed the trans back in the car you didn't get it lined back up properly. Possibly a wire at the top of the bell between the bell housing and engine block.
The most common mistake when reinstalling a transmission is to draw it in to the block using the bolts. You absolutely must make certain that the trans is fully mated to the engine and is not binding on the guide pins before tightening any of the bell housing bolts. Secondly you must make certain that the guide pins are clean and there is no rust or debris inhibiting a solid mate between the engine and bell.

My suggestion is to make absolutely sure that the trans is lined up on the block correctly . You can most likely just remove the drive shaft again, remove the trans mount to frame bolts, and lower the tail of the trans.. Now loosen all of the bell housing bolts, raise the tail of the trans slightly , and tighten the 2 bolts that go through the guide pins, then tighten the very top bolts next, then tighten the others.

Make sure you don't have anything pinched between the bell and engine at the top. Its not uncommon for a wire or plastic wire clip to fall in between here and get pinched causing a misalignment or binding.