Cheap oil vs expensive oil
#1
Cheap oil vs expensive oil
So my grandpa knows more about cars then I do, and he puts cheap oil in my car, and uses a cheap oil filter.
Also he put in 10w40.
Any advice? I've heard royal purple with a k&n oil filter is a great combination, but if the cheap stuff is the same then I will go with it.
Also he put in 10w40.
Any advice? I've heard royal purple with a k&n oil filter is a great combination, but if the cheap stuff is the same then I will go with it.
#2
I work at an oil refinery. Trust me, Synthetic is better. Nothing wrong with using conventional oil but Synthetic has been proven to offer better protection. Royal Purple is pretty pricy. I'd go with something like mobil 1 full synthetic.
#3
The truth is that if you change it often enough (every 2500 to 3000 miles), using any oil that meets the car manufacturer's specifications, then it really doesn't matter what brand or composition ("dino" or synthetic) you use--changing it regularly at 2.5k-3.0k miles is much more beneficial than what oil is used.
Personally I would not use Walmart's or a FLAPS' house brand, but the bottom line is that it really doesn't matter as long as it's kept clean.
10W-40 oil is OK down to cold-start ambient temperatures of 0°F, and operating ambient temps of 100°F+. If you regularly cold-start it in temperatures below 10°F you might want to consider using 5W-40 (or 5W-30 which was Ford's spec for your '96) in the winter.
Here's a link to the API's (American Petroleum Institute) latest (2010/12) Motor Oil Guide. It is a great and unbiased description of the various grades and ratings.
Note that the API service classifications (SN being the latest) make no mention of "dino" vs. synthetic base stocks. This is because the SN service level can be attained using either base--I.e., at least in terms of the API's ratings, it doesn't matter which is used.
While it is true that synthetic based oils have certain improved characteristics when compared to natural based oils, the manner in which they are better is irrelevant to automotive gasoline engine operation.
Personally I would not use Walmart's or a FLAPS' house brand, but the bottom line is that it really doesn't matter as long as it's kept clean.
10W-40 oil is OK down to cold-start ambient temperatures of 0°F, and operating ambient temps of 100°F+. If you regularly cold-start it in temperatures below 10°F you might want to consider using 5W-40 (or 5W-30 which was Ford's spec for your '96) in the winter.
Here's a link to the API's (American Petroleum Institute) latest (2010/12) Motor Oil Guide. It is a great and unbiased description of the various grades and ratings.
Note that the API service classifications (SN being the latest) make no mention of "dino" vs. synthetic base stocks. This is because the SN service level can be attained using either base--I.e., at least in terms of the API's ratings, it doesn't matter which is used.
While it is true that synthetic based oils have certain improved characteristics when compared to natural based oils, the manner in which they are better is irrelevant to automotive gasoline engine operation.
#4
Changing even your conventional oil every 3000 miles for best motor protection is a myth and a waste of money. Even conventional oil viscosity wont start to break down til 7500 hundred miles or more. Thats why new car owners manuals are now recomending a longer period between oil changes. my 2011 dodge nitro recomends 8000 miles between oil changes.
#5
I think you guys have basically answered OP question.
I agree that the oils today are so much superior to the oil we used 15 years ago that it is more about advertising hype than practical benefit to use the most expensive oil and filters. As long as you maintain a reasonable drain interval between 3k-6k miles, I doubt you will suffer ANY negative consequences from dino based oil. If you push your interval beyond 6k, you need to pay for the synthetic oil.
I am more of a believer in using a decent filter than anything. That doesn't mean that I pay for the most expensive filters. I like WIX filters because I trust their quality and the ~$6.50 price isn't bad either.
Don't fret over the "cheap" oil being used in your car(that oil is better than the best oil we used 12 years ago). As CLIFFY says, just maintain a reasonable drain interval and you should be good.
I agree that the oils today are so much superior to the oil we used 15 years ago that it is more about advertising hype than practical benefit to use the most expensive oil and filters. As long as you maintain a reasonable drain interval between 3k-6k miles, I doubt you will suffer ANY negative consequences from dino based oil. If you push your interval beyond 6k, you need to pay for the synthetic oil.
I am more of a believer in using a decent filter than anything. That doesn't mean that I pay for the most expensive filters. I like WIX filters because I trust their quality and the ~$6.50 price isn't bad either.
Don't fret over the "cheap" oil being used in your car(that oil is better than the best oil we used 12 years ago). As CLIFFY says, just maintain a reasonable drain interval and you should be good.
#6
Changing even your conventional oil every 3000 miles for best motor protection is a myth and a waste of money. Even conventional oil viscosity wont start to break down til 7500 hundred miles or more. Thats why new car owners manuals are now recomending a longer period between oil changes. my 2011 dodge nitro recomends 8000 miles between oil changes.
On my side was a '92 Miata (supercharged) with 235k miles, preceded by a '90 Miata (also supercharged) with 285k miles, and an '86 Corolla with 318k miles.
That's 1,800,000 miles altogether, all treated to the mythological oil change intervals, with not an engine failure or significant oil burner in the bunch, so I think I'll keep it up.
For those who buy new, only keep their cars for 2-3 years and only drive 12k a year, I recommend using synthetic and never changing the oil. Just keep it full--you will be fine and any troubles will be the next owner's problem.
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Oh, it has nothing to do with viscosity breakdown--it's the combustion by-products and other crap that builds up in the crankcase, and heat and age related breakdown of additives--all of which are generated is similar quantities regardless of what oil is being used.
That's why the Ford's recommended change interval for the new-edge 4.6L is "5000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first" for normal duty; and 3000 miles/3 months for special service.
FWIW this is the same as the 2011 recommendations...
Last edited by cliffyk; 02-01-2012 at 02:28 PM.
#7
To each there own my friend. It's your money and your cars so I'd hope you'd continue to go with whatever you think works. And i'll continue to use synthetic oil and longer change out intervals with the best oil filter I can find. I'm pretty sure it's more a matter of personal choice and budget anyway.
#8
To each there own my friend. It's your money and your cars so I'd hope you'd continue to go with whatever you think works. And i'll continue to use synthetic oil and longer change out intervals with the best oil filter I can find. I'm pretty sure it's more a matter of personal choice and budget anyway.
#10
I use the 10W-40 (I am in Florida, cold temp in my garage so far this year has been 55°F--it got down to 45°F a couple years ago) Pennzoil and Motorcraft filter from Wally-World...