4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
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Still having clutch issues...what am I doing wrong?!
Still having clutch issues...what am I doing wrong?!
Okay so I am on my second throw out bearing now and about 550 miles in to the new setup it started squeaking.
About 2,000 miles ago I swapped my car over to a 5 speed. Put in a T45, Spec Aluminum flywheel, Ram HDX clutch, Maximum Motorsports firewall adjuster and clutch quadrant with an OEM cable. I had tons of trouble getting the clutch adjusted right were it would engage at the right time. Long story short I used the throw out bearing that came with the Ram clutch and it started making horrible noise about 700 miles in.
I then dropped the transmission to replace the throw out bearing that had failed. I put in a new friction plate for my flywheel, new Ram HDX clutch, new Ford Racing throw out bearing and pilot bearing, new Ford Racing clutch fork, new Ford OEM clutch fork pivot ball, and replaced my bearing retainer sleeve on my T45 with the T56 billet upgrade from Lethal Performance. After reading a million write ups and articles about clutch adjustment I thought I had mine perfect even though the throw out bearing had constant pressure. Gave it the 500 mile break in period with stop and go traffic only and never power shifting or going above 2,000 RPM. The throw out bearing started to squeak as soon as I took it out on the first highway trip cruising at 70MPH at 2500RPM at about the 600 mile mark.
I then did some more reading and found that most people have their setup were the throw out bearing is not touching the pressure plate when there is no pressure on the pedal and with that they have plenty of pedal and clutch engagement where the pedal is about a 1 and half off the ground. I can not adjust mine like because when the throw out bearing is just barely away from the pressure plate the clutch does not disengage all the way. So I thought this was attributed to the clutch quadrant from MM because it does not have any adjustments like UPRs does, so I bought theirs and I am still having the same issue.
I can not adjustment my clutch were the throw out bearing is not touching the pressure plate and get proper disengagement of clutch. If I adjust the firewall adjuster were the clutch engages when the pedal is about 3/4 off the ground under power my clutch is slipping and the throw out bearing has constant pressure. What am I doing wrong here? I am at a total loss here I have never had this much trouble with a clutch setup before..is it time to invest in a hydraulic setup or would I still have the same issue with that?
Car setup is a 98 GT with 92000 miles, full Griggs Racing package, C/O's, K-member, the works.
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Do you have a picture or diagram I can reference to, I Google'd it but came up empty handed. Mine currently is coming out from firewall and under the strut tower brace then looped under and fastened to the K-member around the rack and pinion mount then directly into the transmission. The cable does not take any odd angles to the transmission, it's all pretty straight forward.
You have to make sure it has the biggest curve in it as possible. It goes under the master and attaches to the frame with the supplied bracket then it runs between the oil pan and the k member as close to the oil pan as possible.
Did you ever come up with a resolution on this? I bought the same setup for my Mach 1. Has the stock T-3650 in it but I'm having similar problems. Difference my trans is totally locked out. According to Americanmuscle.com phone techs these parts are incompatible. They said that the two parts together are too bulky and cause the TOB to constantly run on the pressure plate fingers.
Really?... I blind monkey using only his ***** can install a TOB. <snip>
That's the way I did it, but I did keep my eyes open...
OP, how far from the floor board is the clutch pedal (measure straight down at a 90° angle to the pedal itself) On my '03 this is 7-1/4" without the floor mat, let's make sure you have sufficient pedal throw.
The stock clutch control system has an almost exactly 10:1 mechanical advantage from the pedal to the TOB. The TOB has to move 1/2" or so once it contacts the clutch spring fingers. the full pedal throw of 7-1/4" less 1-1/4" free play leaves 6" of travel. 6 / 10 = 0.6" or just a bit more than needed to thrown out the clutch.
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