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30 psi of compression on cylinder 8

Old 03-11-2012, 12:44 AM
  #11  
Britdog15
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Originally Posted by MyGt03
The best test I would think to perform would be a cylinder leakage test. If unfamiliar, its a tester that has two air pressure gauges on a metal block with a regulator. You hook it up to shop air. One gauge will tell you how much air is being pumped into the cylinder, the other gauge tells how much is leaking out and how fast. Usually give that number in a percentage.

You would bring #8 cylinder to TDC on compression stroke, thread leakage tester into the spark plug hole, connect tester to shop air, regulate to 50-60psi, and see how fast it is leaking out. Since you know air is leaking somewhere, you should be able to pinpoint where. If you hear a hissing coming from exhaust, it be the valve. If coming out your throttle body, intake valve. If pressurizing the crankcase, it's the compression rings, if coming out of the spark plug hole in adjacent cylinder, head gasket.

Now, I'm in no way a professional mechanic, but this is the test I would perform. Anyone else familiar with a leakage tester? I picked mine up at JCWhitney for about 80 bucks, if I remember correctly. If I am leaving something out, someone please correct me.

Its a good test that will help pinpoint exactly whats up and where your problem is. Every good diagnostic toolbox should have one in there.

Hope this helps. I could upload a picture if you would like to see one.
thanks for all of the help guys. i believe my budy has one at his shop so i can get it done to help find the problem i did a dry and wet compression tests and it was different by about 2-3 psi on the #8 cylinder. so im prying its not the piston rings. but im going to go ahead and get this next test done. again thanks guys
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:56 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Britdog15
thanks for all of the help guys. i believe my budy has one at his shop so i can get it done to help find the problem i did a dry and wet compression tests and it was different by about 2-3 psi on the #8 cylinder. so im prying its not the piston rings. but im going to go ahead and get this next test done. again thanks guys
Only 30psi, that means 150psi is escaping somewhere. But where? A quick and easy test to see if its your rings...

If it was the rings, there would be a tremendous amount of air getting into your crankcase. Easy test. Start the car, take out your oil dip stick or oil fill cap off. If air is blowing out a lot harder than you think it should be, good chance its the rings. All engines have a little crankcase pressure, but you'd be pumping 150psi into it on every compression stroke. It would be enough that as soon as you take the oil cap off, you'd be like, WTF????

Its worth a try. But that cylinder leakage test will give you the best results.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:48 PM
  #13  
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okay yeah imk getting a leakdown test but im almost positive its an exhaust valve. Im going to have my buddy take it to the shop and give it one. If so im going to be putting a new head on. so i guess this would be a good time to ask about a PI head swap? i found a pair of them for 400 plus shipping
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Britdog15
okay yeah imk getting a leakdown test but im almost positive its an exhaust valve. Im going to have my buddy take it to the shop and give it one. If so im going to be putting a new head on. so i guess this would be a good time to ask about a PI head swap? i found a pair of them for 400 plus shipping
Sweet. That test will help you out for sure. It will definitely steer you in the right direction.

As for the head swap, that is something someone else will have to help you out with. I'm pretty good with diagnosing problems and such, but when it comes to swapping parts around, I'm clueless...lol

Hope you figure it out though...
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:50 PM
  #15  
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well thanks for all the help and im most likely going to get a new head from autozone with a warranty if the test comes out as bad valves. its like 400 bucks plus a core and my buddy can get me a discount
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:57 PM
  #16  
1998Slow 'Stang
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Make sure the autozone head is complete and not bare if that is the direction you really want to go.
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:03 PM
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do you mean cams valves springs etc? because my buddy said it has everything i need just pull the old one and bolt the new one on. the only thing i think i might need is new gaskets
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:46 PM
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1998Slow 'Stang
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That's exactly what I mean. I can't imagine their head being less than $1300 if fully assembled.........which to me sounds like a waste, especially if they are Doorman...........

Edit: read the thread again, there is no way it's a fully assembled head, with cams.....or even without, and lifters and followers and valves. I just don't see it. You should get a set of real Ford PI heads, and an FRPP intake manifold. Just my opinion, don't want to see anyone waste money on junk.

Edit PT2: Just looked that info up on Autozone's site and I can't believe it but it is fully assembled. It still sounds too good to be true. If this IS the way you want to go, I think you are going to be the first to try them and will be a crash test dummy of sorts. From the description on autozones site, it sounds like a refurbed ford casting. If you do go this route, please take tons of pics of the heads and post them here. And let us know how it turns out.

Last edited by 1998Slow 'Stang; 03-12-2012 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:53 AM
  #19  
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Rebuilding a head, in a shop that does it for a living and in batches, is not a big deal--2-1/2 to 3 hours tops--much of that automated...
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:28 PM
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I'd put my money on an exhaust valve. Just pull the head, buy a new valve, re-seat and call it a day. I had to do the same thing on an F150 with a 4.6.
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