Major Wheel Hop after 315 Install
#22
I like the idea, I am no fabricator but my father works with heavy equipment so I know how to weld and am always up to try to make something from scratch. If you can get the materials cheap enough then I'd try it. I don't know about the new edges, but for the s197 all the LCA really is is box tubing with a bushing on each end.
#23
I like the design of the UPR LCA's, and am actually going to order those, the heim joint on one end seems like it will create less bind. maybe not as rigid, but for my car with my plans.. they seem to be a good fit for me.. look at my LCA choice thread I started a week or so ago..
However, draw some up, and lets see them! I know alot of people who are out to support the little guy.. who knows, if people like your work.. it may be something to tinker with!
However, draw some up, and lets see them! I know alot of people who are out to support the little guy.. who knows, if people like your work.. it may be something to tinker with!
#24
I will offer my $.02 on fabbing up stuff. It may take several attempts - so be ready for that. When I started fabbing and testing it took 3 or 4 years to make a fine tuned part that did what I wanted. That being said, several others took my production parts and tried a quick copy and failed horribly. That being said a 'copy' of another usually misses something very key just b/c the foot work wasn't done.
I vote try it out. Worst thing that happens is you end up buying a new set from a mass production version.
I vote try it out. Worst thing that happens is you end up buying a new set from a mass production version.
#25
I will offer my $.02 on fabbing up stuff. It may take several attempts - so be ready for that. When I started fabbing and testing it took 3 or 4 years to make a fine tuned part that did what I wanted. That being said, several others took my production parts and tried a quick copy and failed horribly. That being said a 'copy' of another usually misses something very key just b/c the foot work wasn't done.
I vote try it out. Worst thing that happens is you end up buying a new set from a mass production version.
I vote try it out. Worst thing that happens is you end up buying a new set from a mass production version.
Yeah, I figure that is my worst case scenario. Although on the LCA's, I can only see that happening if I make them too weak, or too heavy. I know most use a 1.5x2.5 with a .120 wall square tube. Some use round tube. Most likely in a 1.75 or 2 inch OD.
I talked to my brother a few minutes ago. Got him going to work tomorrow and grabbing me a various supply of tubing in different sizes and wall thicknesses. Square and round. Just told him what (in general) I was wanting to use and see what he could come up with. Whatever he finds, grab 2 pieces in 3ft lengths. He will show up after work tomorrow with a truck load. He always does.
Since the main component of the control arm is the tube, I will first see what he delivers. Then order the bushing kit. Will need this so I know what inner diameter (ID) size tube I will need for the bushing housings.
Although, I might make two sets. If the ones I make for myself work good, I might offer (free of charge) the second set to someone solely for feedback information. After taking with my brother, he says there are bigger pieces that get thrown into the scrap hopper because they are drop (the end of a long piece of tube that cant be used). We will see.
Lastly, what makes the large manufactures good at what they do is consistency. You engineer your first pieces, make a quality jig/fixture, then every piece after comes out as good as the first. Absolutely no better tool to use than the stock LCA's. This will ensure a part that maintains OE specs. Now, when you get into changing the characteristics off the stock measurements, is when a qualified engineer and the whole scientific team is needed for R&D. My goal is simple, a LCA that maintains all stock measurements, doesn't alter ride height, and is far superior in strength than the factory cheapo.
Wheels in the head are already turning on some sub frame connectors. Way too easy...
#27
First will be getting stock ones off and measured. Next a drawing/blueprint of all materials and dimensions of OEM. Finally the assembly of the fixture. I admit, this will not be an overnight project though. But once the fixture is assembled, and I verify a consistent part to OE specs, its practically done from there. Jig it, tack it, weld it, clean it, powdercoat it. Whether I make 2,4, or 20,000, using a fixture will maintain consistency.
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