4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
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Sorry for the length, I write more when I am frustrated. I am wondering if someone would be nice enough to offer any thoughts. I used to be a Toyota tech. I don't know Mustangs but being single at 35 years old a GT convertible sounded like a better choice than a Camry. And I can take any
Basically I can't see a way to get the trans all the way out without moving the engine so here is where I am at-
There is only about an inch to work with between the bell housing and the flywheel so it's pretty hard to slide your hand in there (I have small hands) and slide the pressure plate and disc forward to the flywheel. The pressure plate and disc have to be placed on the input shaft before bolting the flywheel on because they won't fit in or out once the flywheel is on.
So that's bad enough but then there is a shim that has to go between the pressure plate and flywheel. I am not pleased with McLeod clutch for that. It's nearly impossible to do anything without the shim falling off of the little pins on the flywheel, anything including breathing. The engine is sitting angled back and has to stay that way.
I have 2 ideas. First- super glue the shim to the flywheel and carry on with trying to wedge my hand in the 1 inch gap and slide everything into position to bolt up. The tricky part about that is the pressure plate being way too heavy to balance and maneuver (you should have seen my fear balancing the flywheel above my head) and the clutch disc has to magically be held in place while performing the balancing. This option still doesn't allow me to use the clutch alignment tool due to the input shaft being in the way.
The next idea is to unbolt the bell housing so I can move the trans away. Then I can put the clutch together like normal even though the bell housing is still floating there because I don't think it will come out even without the trans attached. But it's really the input shaft messing everything up.
Can I pull the trans off the bell housing? I don't know anything about this trans. I assume it's no big deal but I hope the bell housing bolts don't hold the whole thing together.....
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Bro i dont know howto say this without being a a-hole, but your a mechanic???? I know its not a toyota but theres a ton of red flags here that you should know being a mehanic.... Lets start of by saying remove the transmission feom the car to start, trying to stuck your hands in there and insta this is down right rediculous. 2 you asked what holds the clutch in place why u bolt the pressure plate???????? Like all clutch installs of this type there is an alightmen tool that is 10 spline just like the trans input shaft u slide it through the clutch disk into the pilot bearing on the crankshaft and ot stays alined while u bolt down the pressure plate plts to 24 foot pounds, without the tool it would be impossible to center the clutch disk.......... Your flywheel???????? It needs to be resurfaced or replaced...... Moving forward its a good idea to check and replace the pilot bearing but if u didnt get the trans out of the way obviously u didnt even inspect it.
Street Car, 4v D1sc, 20psi,viper spec t56, Team Z/ UPR suspension. SKELETON CREW RACING
Last edited by uberstang1; 04-01-2012 at 07:57 PM.
You are not being an a-hole, I would have much the same response so I don't blame you. I think if I pull the other header I could get the trans out but I am looking for other (easier) options.
I have put clutches in without an alignment tool, it is not the only way.
Trust me, I am not looking for info on my competency or experience. I need to know if there is any concern with separating the bell housing from the trans. It's bolted internally, not external bolts like some other Mustangs. I already torqued the flywheel on (after having it resurfaced) but pulling it back off is no big deal to access the inside of the bell housing to unbolt it.
you need to pull the LT headers and than you need to pull the trans out. Your spending so much time F'n around with not pulling the trans. The Manual trans in a Mustang has to be one of the easiest to do if you just do it right.
I was afraid of that. Headers suck as my friend has told me several times now...
I know it isn't the end of the world to pull the other header but I can dream. My biggest concern was going through a lot of trouble if there is a better way that I didn't see. And that's why I asked on here, thanks.
I have the passenger side header off and can't get it or the trans out but I think if I move the trans towards the block the header may have enough room to slide out. I unbolted the header after the trans was unbolted so they kinda moved back together and stayed wedged to the body.
If you are doing all of this on a lift(which I assume you are), it is easiest to drop the cross member out of the way and proceed from there. I don't think there is a magic short-cut on our cars for this project.
HiTech stageII cams, BBK Ceramic LongTubes, MAC ProChamber, Flowmaster50series, SteedaUDP, JLT CAI, MGW, SVT Focus Fuel Pump, H&R Race springs, Bilstein HD, MM CC Plates, MM FLSFC, Eibach Swaybars, MM LCA, MM Pan-hard, 3.91gears, AuburnPro diff, Moser31splines, 17x9 & 17x10.5 Bullitts, Dark smoked headlights w/ 55W HID, chin spoiler. 283rwhp/298torque (motor), 417rwhp/498torque (latest nitrous tune) firstname.lastname@example.org (motor w/ 1.77 60'), email@example.com (1.78 60')on nitrous.
Alright man, i'm in your shoes right now, I busted a heater hose, have to pull the trans to get to it. The trans was such a PITA to get out, and still not going in. With those headers, you will have to losen atleast, that was my main point in getting the kooks headers, built with just enough room to get the trans out, which i have proven can be done. Its tough but can be done. I too had some trouble dropping this trans due to the body/firewall catching the ears of the bell housing. What i did was loosen and unbold the clutch assembly to allow for more room, and it all dropped together in one shot, like you would a torque converter on an AUTO. I pulled and yanked and twisted my a$$ off trying to drop this trans, wouldn't happen without pulling the whole clutch. soon as i did, boom done. Problem number two, getting the trans back in, which i still have yet to accomplish. It seems i need to raise the front of the motor up, to tilt the engine to allow the input shaft to slide in, because of the body, i have no more room to go up the bastard 1/2in i need. I am unable to tilt the motor because of a 7qt oil pan hittin the K-member, in which i assume i have to drop. So I feel your pain man, seriously i do. If all else fails, and these guys dont rip me apart for dropping the clutch/pressure plate to get room, try that, worked for me. Getting it back in, hahaha, i'm all ears myself. They are right, you do need the spline tool to get it lined up.
MMR 1000se stroker, F1A procharger, maximum motorsports grip box package,
580rwhp/540tq spinning on rollers. New tires trans clutch on the way
I am at the same point. The trans is a half inch from going in. The engine is jacked up as far as I think I can go and the input shaft is almost there. I think I will be able to get it but wow it's tight.
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