jonescbr

so in have a 98 gt with new 373s and new clutchs in the rear end would bad carier bearings cause a squeal when letting off the gas and also a rattle grind noise when letting off and reapplying? also would bad axle bearings cause a moan when turning at low speeds and a grind noise when taking off while turning? this will be the third time i take it to the guy who rebilt it and want to go in with as much info as i can. thanks for any help or advise you can give

cliffyk

Not soaking the clutch friction disks in friction modifier for 15-20 minutes prior to assembly, or having too little/no friction modifier in the differential fluid could cause the symptoms you describe...

jonescbr

i dont think he soaked them at all. he poured gear oil out on a paper plate and rbbed them in it before he put them in and he reused half of the gear oil that was in it from when he put the gears in about 3 weeks ago and then put a fresh quart in without adding any friction modifier. it sounds like the rear is falling apart lol. i jst want it fixed right and for good. getting tired of having to go back into it on his schedule and hearing thre noised and feeling the rattle and grind of it all

cliffyk

So if I get this right, so as to save the cost of 2 qts of new gear oil, and 4 oz of f/m, a whopping $30 maybe in total, "He" reused 2 qts of the old oil (that is was only 3-weeks old is irrelevant) and did not soak the friction disks in f/m for a while before assembling the differential carrier.

If that is the story then "He" is an incompetent jack-äss, please do not ever let "him" touch your car again.

At this point I would use a suction gun to suck out a 4 oz of fluid (if it's filled to the top of the filler hole), add 4 oz of f/m, and then drive it around a parking lot doing sharp left and right turns for 15 to 30 minutes or even more, That might work the friction modifier into the clutch packs enough to get them behaving as they should...

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BTW--friction modifier makes the gear oil more "slippery" so that the LSD clutch packs do not bind up. Many/most synthetic gear oil makers claim f/m is not needed, however I have seen many instances where a couple ounces is needed to prevent the binding.

Being a geezer I use dino oil in the back-end, and first add only 2 oz of f/m at each change; then more if needed--this lets me control the LSD slip...

jonescbr

so you think that would do it. i know he rplaced the races but forgot to change the carrier bearings. is that something i could probably take out and take to someone to have swaped right?

jonescbr

i should have known something was up he only charged me 170 to do the work but others on the forum i met him on swore by him that he was really good at doin rear ends. oh well live and learn right? lol

cliffyk

I think it would be worth a try, and avoid opening the pumpkin up again.

He "forgot"? So is this guy's name Larry, Moe, or Curly?

Bearings and races are ALWAYS replaced in sets--the only exception being when there is no money and you just need to get the damned thing running again. And be assured I have been there more than once in my life, especially many years ago when I was racing on a shoestring, a wing and a prayer; sitting in front of a pile of old bearings and races, and picking the best of the bunch.

At this point I would get some f/m in there, do the circles, and if it quiets down drive it until it get's noisy again...