Originally Posted by trailor

i went for the PHB & TA setup bc i wanted an overall better performing vehicle. that simply can't be accomplished with aftermarket UCA's (Jazzer's guide gives a simple explanation as to why). with the PHB & TA, the upper control arms no longer funtion properly, and are thus removed, changing the stock 4-link suspension to a 3-link. i understand that it won't net me great benefits for drag racing, but it still should provide some, based on my research.

EDIT: The info pages on the torque arms offered by MM and Griggs both mention increased dry/wet traction, as well as better launches at the strip and improved traction under harsh acceleration: MM's TA page and Griggs' TA page

Originally Posted by oxfordgt

I had mega bite Jr lowers, baseline uppers and QA1 coilover all the way around with 700hp. The car dead hooked everytime on DRs and my buddys 650hp cobra couldn't keep up with me in the curves. A 4 link can be made to out perform at TA & PHB set up extremely easy.

You will never see a Torque arm and PHB on any drag cars because they just don't work.

Originally Posted by trailor

Ok last year, I went to the track on a perfect night. Track was prepped, weather was wonderful, etc etc. My power-adding mods were LT's w/ O/R H pipe, 75mm TB, JLT short ram intake piping & filter, and a pretty basic tune from Delta Force (Sniper) Special Forces w/ 93 octane and +2* on the Global Spark Modifier. I was running sumitumo htr-z II street tires (had maybe 3k miles on them). My best of the night was a 13.98 with a 2.2 60', while my friend ran it to a 13.88 with a 2.1 60'.

Since then, I have put on b/w 5k-8k more miles on the car, plus I have added a PP 75mm "Upper Plenum" Elbow, 4.10 Motive gears, UPR Adjustable LCA's, MM Panhard Bar, 24lbs injectors, 180* thermostat, and made a tune practically identical to my old one from special forces, that accounted for the 24lbs injectors and 4.10 gears (tried to write a tune in commando that also accounted for the 180* t-stat and fooled with some other spark advancement settings, but it didn't run right, so i tossed it). I also decided to add a bottle of Gumout Octane Booster since I still had about 3.5 gallons of 87 in the tank. Still ran on the same street tires. I welded up one of my two torque boxes (ran out of time for the other one). I also removed the quad shocks, as I was told they were no longer needed with aftermarket LCA's. Still had some wheel hop on small burnouts....

STILL ran a best of 13.98 w/ a 2.2 60'! The weather was about 15* hotter than last time, and a good bit more humid. Track was still prepped, even better and sticker however than last year. A different friend of mine who has more seat time with mustangs than the other guy consistently ran a low 13.9 with a 2.1 60'. I understand that the heat and track conditions make a difference, but I can't believe that with 4.10s and LCA's I would be running the same exact times. Any ideas with what's going wrong here??

Originally Posted by oxfordgt

For 1 you didn't add anything that would have given you anymore power. Second you added LCA's and 4.10's but still ran street tires. LCAs really don't do much unless their custom made and not in the stock location. Adding the 4.10s with street tires canceled out any benefit the LCA could have given you.

Originally Posted by trailor

trap speeds this year and last year were both between 102-104mph. my 13.98 run yesterday had a trap of 102.69 to be precise, and i also had a 14.08 run with 103.9 trap. can't find my slips from last year, but it was in the same range. the weight was practically the same. i added the weight of the PHB, but removing the rear sway bar and having lighter LCA's with the quad shocks and their mounts removed should have just about cancelled each other out.

oxfordgt, i was under the impression that the LCA's would help with better launches and grip, etc. even with street tires. i was still losing traction on all my shifts, mostly, however, on my 1-2, in which i tried to compensate with some feathering. if what you say is correct, i would be very relieved, because i was thinking something more serious. still sounds kinda weird that the drastic difference in feel of 4.10s wouldn't net any gain in 1/4 mile times...

Originally Posted by oxfordgt

Slap on some drag radials and you'll go faster.

I would have done upper control arms before lowers. A mustang suspension is designed for highway driving not drag racing, you have to change the geometry for any real improvement and basic $100 uppers and lowers like from MM or UPR won't do it.

Originally Posted by trailor

i am currently in the process of changing the geometry, once i install my torque arm there will be no need for UCA's. just having trouble coordinating times with my welder. hafta get the FLSFC's on first... after all that work is done, i will be getting smaller rims and DR's. still, i was hoping to have seen some gains before that time..

Originally Posted by trailor

i went for the PHB & TA setup bc i wanted an overall better performing vehicle. that simply can't be accomplished with aftermarket UCA's (Jazzer's guide gives a simple explanation as to why). with the PHB & TA, the upper control arms no longer funtion properly, and are thus removed, changing the stock 4-link suspension to a 3-link. i understand that it won't net me great benefits for drag racing, but it still should provide some, based on my research.

EDIT: The info pages on the torque arms offered by MM and Griggs both mention increased dry/wet traction, as well as better launches at the strip and improved traction under harsh acceleration: MM's TA page and Griggs' TA page

Originally Posted by Armystrongmach1

So what is the best drag racing set-up for a car with 418hp/485tq?

Originally Posted by UPRSharad

With all due respect, you car will run even slower in the quarter mile with the torque arm. I know MM and Griggs both claim to improve straight line traction, but on the street and at the dragstrip, it never works out that way.

Originally Posted by oxfordgt

Before we play the i told you so game run your car after the torque arm install before changing tires just to make it fair.

But I can tell you I do know a little about drag and street/strip suspension set ups.