4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
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The usual $50 ones at homedepot, radio shack, etc will be able to do this, and show simple instructions on how to do it. Really, it ain't dat hard. This chick in the vid is doing it with a small motor as a pretty spot on example of what I mentioned previously:
So long as the multi-meter can read 10-30amps and you leave everything off (no radio, etc)your golden, either wait for your interior lights to kick off, or hold the button on the door in place with something so there is no draw outside of how it would be if you locked the door and left the car as usual.
Aaaaaand, if that's not good enough, this guy (with an Aussie accent) walks you through it step by step:
4.10s, 285rwhp/297rwtq - SCT, "we suck so you don't have to"
¨Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.¨--Ben Franklin
another strange thing I've noticed is when the battery is low but enough to start is the gauge on the dash will be between low and 1/2 way (l) instead of high and 1/2 way (r). then it seems once the charge gets strong enough it kicks over to the right and I hear almost a slight whine or whistle. I've changed the alt. as well and it behaved the same with either. BTW, I have an optima yellow top, made for numerous charge cycles...lol. it does have an aftermarket Kenwood head unit with a +5VDC voltage regulator so the factory amps don't making the wheeeeeeuuuuuuuu sound when you turn the key on. the mach amps require 5 +VDC input.
I wanted to hook the multimeter in line and try fuse removal but the alarm goes into panic mode and I can't disable...ugh. fuse #9 was already gone. I need to get some of that size so I'll put one in and see what happens...lol
I've decided to revive this thread in case anyone is still having problems. By disconnecting one wire from the GEM under the dash, I was able to solve the parasitic draw problem in my mustang without any adverse effects. Someone with an official wiring diagram can help to complete this post.
I have a 2003 V6 coupe with ABS and traction control and for the past three years I have been wrestling with battery issues. I replaced my alternator last year but no avail. Whenever my car sat for more than a week, the battery would be less than 10 volts and be unable to start the car. I've gone through 3 Everstart batteries – each one lasting <12 months – and whenever I exchange them Walmart says it had a bad cell. I started to question the probability of this happening to every battery I exchanged so I turned my attention to my car's electrical system.
Batteries dying seems like a common problem for all of the 94-04 mustangs. Some people's solution is to take out their CDs and turn off the radio; unfortunately, this did not work for me. Others suggest using a trickle charger whenever the car sits. However, I REFUSE to cover up this problem by putting my car on trickle charger. If these cars can not sit for longer than a week without dying then they are HORRIBLY engineered vehicles.
I removed my negative terminal and connected a multimeter in series (one probe on the negative terminal and the other on the negative lead) to measure the current. After hitting the lock button on my key fob to turn off the interior lights, the current drops to 150 mA. Pulling fuses one by one, I narrow the problem down to the GEM (fuse #39) as the only circuit drawing power. I put the fuse back in and wait several hours to see if the computer goes to sleep, but it never does. Doing a simple calculation for a 150 mA draw with the stock 40 Amp-hour battery gives: 40/.15/24=11 days. It's no wonder my battery only lasts a week.
While pulling fuse #39 stops the parasitic draw, it is NOT the source of the problem. For some reason the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is not putting the car to sleep after it sits for a little bit like it is supposed to. I start disconnecting wire harness connectors under the dash to find the signal that is keeping the computer awake. I discovered that if I remove the black connector closest to the door under the GEM behind the driver's kick-panel, then my 150mA current drops down to 100mA. What's great though, is that after 40 minutes, it goes to sleep and drops to <5mA. I measured all of the voltages of the wires in this plug and discovered that the black/white wire is the only one with +12 VDC. This wire is actually connected to the interior lighting fuse, #7, and not #39. I removed the black/white wire from the black connector and plug the connector back into the module. The current went back up to 150mA, however, the computer still went to sleep after 40 minutes.
Everything seems to be working just fine and the remote keyless entry, interior lights, wipers, warning lights, power windows, one-touch driver's window, and heated rear window still work the way they are supposed to. The GEM has other +12 VDC wires powering it so I don't really know what this specific wire is actually doing other than playing havoc with my computer's sleep function. Anyone with an official shop manual or detailed wiring diagrams for the 99-04 V6 models may be able to figure out exactly what it is. If this wire is not the actual problem, then I would like to narrow it down even further to figure out which component is faulty or where there is a short.
The wires in this black 12-pin connector for the GEM are as follows:
i hooked the meter in line. read .35 which should = 35ma. after the pcm fell asleep it was 25ma. pulled the radio fuse and it went to 5ma which is the goal. it's a kenwood unit. i pulled it out to make sure no bad wiring. it looked clean and put it back in. for curiosity sake i pulled 30 (GEM) and it went to 10ma. BTW, 2000 doesn't have a fuse 9. the radio fuse is 25a instead of 20a. ford must've ran the mach amps and radio on the same ckt that year.
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