MustangForums.com

MustangForums.com (http://mustangforums.com/forum/index.php)
-   4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang (http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-1996-2004-modular-mustang-7/)
-   -   Battery power slowly draws over time... (http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-1996-2004-modular-mustang/671247-battery-power-slowly-draws-over-time.html)

00_buck 05-01-2012 07:51 PM

Battery power slowly draws over time...
 
My battery is being drained somehow and after a couple days of not starting the car won't even have enough juice to crank. It's an optima battery that's pretty new so it's got the amps. I've unplugged the alternator cable and my system (stereo) cable and it still draws so I know it's not those two. Any other ideas and if so how do I do it?

bizarre660 05-01-2012 08:52 PM

an idea could be to maybe start pulling fuses..... something may be shorted and once you kill that circuit the draw will stop.... sorry i hope that helps

00_buck 05-01-2012 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bizarre660 (Post 7928401)
an idea could be to maybe start pulling fuses..... something may be shorted and once you kill that circuit the draw will stop.... sorry i hope that helps

I thought of this but how do I know if I pulled the right fuse? Pull a fuse and wait two days? This is gonna be a long month...

JeremyB 05-02-2012 02:53 AM

if something was shorted I would think the fuse would blow, but you can still try it, something that you might check is the alarm, but I don't think that would drain it

I would have the battery tested after you charge it completely just to make sure, even optimas can go bad

95beaststang 05-02-2012 03:50 AM

That's a lie ...optimas CAN'T go bad !!! J/K Get a multimeter and test each circuit in the fuse box ...there are some how-to videos on youtube

wayne613 05-02-2012 05:32 AM

Typical multi-meter has an ammeter, usually for <30 amps, which should do fine to diagnose.

Car off, yank the negative battery terminal, hook mult-meter in-line to show amperage draw, look at draw, start pulling fuses til it goes to where it should be, which I think should be around <100mA, likely closer to <=50mA.

00_buck 05-02-2012 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyB (Post 7928640)
if something was shorted I would think the fuse would blow, but you can still try it, something that you might check is the alarm, but I don't think that would drain it

I would have the battery tested after you charge it completely just to make sure, even optimas can go bad

It's been doing this for years through many batteries. It's not the battery.

00_buck 05-02-2012 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wayne613 (Post 7928684)
Typical multi-meter has an ammeter, usually for <30 amps, which should do fine to diagnose.

Car off, yank the negative battery terminal, hook mult-meter in-line to show amperage draw, look at draw, start pulling fuses til it goes to where it should be, which I think should be around <100mA, likely closer to <=50mA.

What does "hook mult-meter in-line" mean? Hook pos. to pos. on battery and neg. to neg. on battery? thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

JeremyB 05-02-2012 04:07 PM

I found this which may be helpful

Quote:

I've decided to revive this thread in case anyone is still having problems. By disconnecting one wire from the GEM under the dash, I was able to solve the parasitic draw problem in my mustang without any adverse effects. Someone with an official wiring diagram can help to complete this post.

I have a 2003 V6 coupe with ABS and traction control and for the past three years I have been wrestling with battery issues. I replaced my alternator last year but no avail. Whenever my car sat for more than a week, the battery would be less than 10 volts and be unable to start the car. I've gone through 3 Everstart batteries – each one lasting <12 months – and whenever I exchange them Walmart says it had a bad cell. I started to question the probability of this happening to every battery I exchanged so I turned my attention to my car's electrical system.

Batteries dying seems like a common problem for all of the 94-04 mustangs. Some people's solution is to take out their CDs and turn off the radio; unfortunately, this did not work for me. Others suggest using a trickle charger whenever the car sits. However, I REFUSE to cover up this problem by putting my car on trickle charger. If these cars can not sit for longer than a week without dying then they are HORRIBLY engineered vehicles.

I removed my negative terminal and connected a multimeter in series (one probe on the negative terminal and the other on the negative lead) to measure the current. After hitting the lock button on my key fob to turn off the interior lights, the current drops to 150 mA. Pulling fuses one by one, I narrow the problem down to the GEM (fuse #39) as the only circuit drawing power. I put the fuse back in and wait several hours to see if the computer goes to sleep, but it never does. Doing a simple calculation for a 150 mA draw with the stock 40 Amp-hour battery gives: 40/.15/24=11 days. It's no wonder my battery only lasts a week.

While pulling fuse #39 stops the parasitic draw, it is NOT the source of the problem. For some reason the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is not putting the car to sleep after it sits for a little bit like it is supposed to. I start disconnecting wire harness connectors under the dash to find the signal that is keeping the computer awake. I discovered that if I remove the black connector closest to the door under the GEM behind the driver's kick-panel, then my 150mA current drops down to 100mA. What's great though, is that after 40 minutes, it goes to sleep and drops to <5mA. I measured all of the voltages of the wires in this plug and discovered that the black/white wire is the only one with +12 VDC. This wire is actually connected to the interior lighting fuse, #7, and not #39. I removed the black/white wire from the black connector and plug the connector back into the module. The current went back up to 150mA, however, the computer still went to sleep after 40 minutes.

Everything seems to be working just fine and the remote keyless entry, interior lights, wipers, warning lights, power windows, one-touch driver's window, and heated rear window still work the way they are supposed to. The GEM has other +12 VDC wires powering it so I don't really know what this specific wire is actually doing other than playing havoc with my computer's sleep function. Anyone with an official shop manual or detailed wiring diagrams for the 99-04 V6 models may be able to figure out exactly what it is. If this wire is not the actual problem, then I would like to narrow it down even further to figure out which component is faulty or where there is a short.

The wires in this black 12-pin connector for the GEM are as follows:

brown/red____________yellow/white
gray/blue_____________(empty)
purple/yellow__________(empty)
black/white(removed)___(empty)
(empty)_______________black/blue
black/purple___________(empty)
basically the PCM is failing to go to sleep and continuously drawing power, removing 1 wire from a connector solves the problem allowing it to go to sleep

wayne613 05-02-2012 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 00_buck (Post 7929244)
What does "hook mult-meter in-line" mean? Hook pos. to pos. on battery and neg. to neg. on battery? thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Assuming the above poster didn't just solve it for ya, you would disconnect the negative battery terminal, then put the multi-meter in series to read amperage draw, usually a specific plug on the device is indicated. Then put the one red multi-meter probe end on the battery terminal, the black probe on the ground cable you removed. Just as if you were putting a resistor in-line (in series) for a circuit.

In addition to buying a decent multi-meter(or borrowing one) capable of measuring amperage, you'd likely wish to get 2 12guage alligator clips to hold the probes on their respective contacts, unless you have a friend willing to stand here holding both on while you test, telling you what it's reading as you go along.

00_buck 05-02-2012 06:35 PM

Thanks, this was a world of help. Even if i can't figure it out at least I can tell an electrician about the wire to remove.

wayne613 05-02-2012 06:41 PM

The usual $50 ones at homedepot, radio shack, etc will be able to do this, and show simple instructions on how to do it. Really, it ain't dat hard. This chick in the vid is doing it with a small motor as a pretty spot on example of what I mentioned previously:

[youtube]yrpmq2FCnqs[/youtube]

So long as the multi-meter can read 10-30amps and you leave everything off (no radio, etc)your golden, either wait for your interior lights to kick off, or hold the button on the door in place with something so there is no draw outside of how it would be if you locked the door and left the car as usual.


Aaaaaand, if that's not good enough, this guy (with an Aussie accent) walks you through it step by step:
[youtube]MNzZSsuQthY[/youtube]

fullmonte60 06-04-2013 07:37 AM

i'm living it now...lol thanks for the tips.

72MachOne99GT 06-04-2013 09:34 PM

Sounds like I might be starting a non sleeping pattern too.

I had my alternator test bad so im replacing it tomorrow. If it goes belly uo again ill have to trouble shoot some circuits.

fullmonte60 06-07-2013 03:31 PM

another strange thing I've noticed is when the battery is low but enough to start is the gauge on the dash will be between low and 1/2 way (l) instead of high and 1/2 way (r). then it seems once the charge gets strong enough it kicks over to the right and I hear almost a slight whine or whistle. I've changed the alt. as well and it behaved the same with either. BTW, I have an optima yellow top, made for numerous charge cycles...lol. it does have an aftermarket Kenwood head unit with a +5VDC voltage regulator so the factory amps don't making the wheeeeeeuuuuuuuu sound when you turn the key on. the mach amps require 5 +VDC input.

fullmonte60 06-09-2013 02:03 PM

I wanted to hook the multimeter in line and try fuse removal but the alarm goes into panic mode and I can't disable...ugh. fuse #9 was already gone. I need to get some of that size so I'll put one in and see what happens...lol

fastbackford351 06-17-2013 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyB (Post 7929263)
I found this which may be helpful



I've decided to revive this thread in case anyone is still having problems. By disconnecting one wire from the GEM under the dash, I was able to solve the parasitic draw problem in my mustang without any adverse effects. Someone with an official wiring diagram can help to complete this post.

I have a 2003 V6 coupe with ABS and traction control and for the past three years I have been wrestling with battery issues. I replaced my alternator last year but no avail. Whenever my car sat for more than a week, the battery would be less than 10 volts and be unable to start the car. I've gone through 3 Everstart batteries – each one lasting <12 months – and whenever I exchange them Walmart says it had a bad cell. I started to question the probability of this happening to every battery I exchanged so I turned my attention to my car's electrical system.

Batteries dying seems like a common problem for all of the 94-04 mustangs. Some people's solution is to take out their CDs and turn off the radio; unfortunately, this did not work for me. Others suggest using a trickle charger whenever the car sits. However, I REFUSE to cover up this problem by putting my car on trickle charger. If these cars can not sit for longer than a week without dying then they are HORRIBLY engineered vehicles.

I removed my negative terminal and connected a multimeter in series (one probe on the negative terminal and the other on the negative lead) to measure the current. After hitting the lock button on my key fob to turn off the interior lights, the current drops to 150 mA. Pulling fuses one by one, I narrow the problem down to the GEM (fuse #39) as the only circuit drawing power. I put the fuse back in and wait several hours to see if the computer goes to sleep, but it never does. Doing a simple calculation for a 150 mA draw with the stock 40 Amp-hour battery gives: 40/.15/24=11 days. It's no wonder my battery only lasts a week.

While pulling fuse #39 stops the parasitic draw, it is NOT the source of the problem. For some reason the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is not putting the car to sleep after it sits for a little bit like it is supposed to. I start disconnecting wire harness connectors under the dash to find the signal that is keeping the computer awake. I discovered that if I remove the black connector closest to the door under the GEM behind the driver's kick-panel, then my 150mA current drops down to 100mA. What's great though, is that after 40 minutes, it goes to sleep and drops to <5mA. I measured all of the voltages of the wires in this plug and discovered that the black/white wire is the only one with +12 VDC. This wire is actually connected to the interior lighting fuse, #7, and not #39. I removed the black/white wire from the black connector and plug the connector back into the module. The current went back up to 150mA, however, the computer still went to sleep after 40 minutes.

Everything seems to be working just fine and the remote keyless entry, interior lights, wipers, warning lights, power windows, one-touch driver's window, and heated rear window still work the way they are supposed to. The GEM has other +12 VDC wires powering it so I don't really know what this specific wire is actually doing other than playing havoc with my computer's sleep function. Anyone with an official shop manual or detailed wiring diagrams for the 99-04 V6 models may be able to figure out exactly what it is. If this wire is not the actual problem, then I would like to narrow it down even further to figure out which component is faulty or where there is a short.

The wires in this black 12-pin connector for the GEM are as follows:

brown/red____________yellow/white
gray/blue_____________(empty)
purple/yellow__________(empty)
black/white(removed)___(empty)
(empty)_______________black/blue
black/purple___________(empty)


basically the PCM is failing to go to sleep and continuously drawing power, removing 1 wire from a connector solves the problem allowing it to go to sleep




Is this legit? Have any of ya'll tried disconnecting this wire? I am sick and tired of this battery draw and having to disconnect my battery if the car sits longer than 12 hours.

fullmonte60 11-16-2013 04:04 PM

i hooked the meter in line. read .35 which should = 35ma. after the pcm fell asleep it was 25ma. pulled the radio fuse and it went to 5ma which is the goal. it's a kenwood unit. i pulled it out to make sure no bad wiring. it looked clean and put it back in. for curiosity sake i pulled 30 (GEM) and it went to 10ma. BTW, 2000 doesn't have a fuse 9. the radio fuse is 25a instead of 20a. ford must've ran the mach amps and radio on the same ckt that year.

fullmonte60 11-17-2013 03:45 PM

did some more checking and found fuse 32 was for "radio, cd player, GEM". so turned on the radio and it worked but no volume. i'll have to check the amps.

castorino220 11-18-2013 01:14 PM

i have the same issue, what did you find? is it the stock amps, or does the removing the blk/white wire fix the problem?


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:43 PM.