disposablehero27

Bramas i wasnt ignoring cliffy i was asking more questions about automotive electronics to learn, ignorance is how this thread developed. And look it worked. You even taught me something...for example, only trailor queens need such aftermarket equipment. However the philosophy of, you dont need it so it doesnt matter, wasnt the road i was looking for.

I appreciate the explanation cliffy, again. I feel pretty happy with my numbers, a touch over 600hp and 550hp is what i thought would be a decent track car and nasty on the street. As i went through this with my suspension build, i am looking to do well in both. I realize you cant be great at both. But i feel you hit the nail on the head, fast track car pushing the limits on the st. Thats where i want to be. I spoke with sct, they hacked into my laptop, attempted to recover what they could, and failex. So i pulled my pcm, wrapped up my tuner and will be shipping both to them. If they are unable to, i will find a stock replacement as several of you suggested.

To fastlanes defense, its hard to say who i talked to and how i explained the chip that fits in my silver box in the kick panel. Chances are they meant....leave things alone until you can bring it here and tune it. Atleast thats how i took it anyway.


I am pretty unhappy with the outcome of my first dyno tune experience and look where it led me. Messing with things ive never seen or used before with nobody to call and make sure i dont screw anything up. If it werent for this forum, id probably still be building the engine.

BraMas

OK now that you are on the right track. Explain why you where removing the fuel pump fuse? I have never done this to load a SCT tune on a car

disposablehero27

That is a good question. Previously i had a superchips tuner. It stated i had to remove the pump fuse to tune it. And i had always done so ever since. I asked sct if this was necessary, and he said no not always. Sometimes. But not an every time thing. The superchips instructions stated everytime you tune a vehicle. So i have been hahaha. Sct says no need unless you have to. So i wont bother anymore.

uberstang1

I would just was your hands of fastlane, buy a used ecu (hell i have one i can sell u) and take the car somewhere else. Fastlane is definatly the reason your in this pickle from the information i have read. Hell if yur car is that lean your power nimbers are probably way off as well.

disposablehero27

I think your right uber. Procharger was expecting 625-650 witg the pulley they suggested and sold me. From what cliffy was saying i need a specific ecu. It says llx4 and im not sure about the strategy code I will have to look. I appreciate the help and if they cant fix it hopefully yours will work. Their are a few more dyno's down in NC i can look into. And may even hed up your way depending on the distance.

uberstang1

I look at the ecu and get the codes Tomorrow, with ur mods and blowet setup id out u around 590-625

cliffyk

The LLX4 boxcode is one of the more common, it is a member of the CDAN4 strategy family, I have 68 tunes for that strategy in my library. If you need to get a new PCM let me know an I will make a list of boxcodes that will work.

Any CDAN4 PCM should be able to be flashed to the LLX4 boxcode...

If you are running a return type system it is a good idea to pull the f/p fuse, not necessary but a good idea--it is not at all necessary with a returnless system.

disposablehero27

Ok. Lets slow down a bit. Thats over my head. I am picking up on key words more common and i have files. So this sounds good. Haha. I will let you know what they say. I fear it will be a few week process.

dwtjr3

OP definitely got screwed over by the tuner, I had a bad experience with a tuner once and like all the members are saying, i cut my losses and moved to a new tuner

disposablehero27

yeah uber i was thinking 600s, really was, and i believe your right dwt, may be best to just go another way.