disposablehero27

well soldier by doing that, he would have to assemble the long block, instead of a buy swap and drive deal. which i think we both kind of led him. You can go with the built short, but you have to add the heads, intake, accessories, etc. which makes it a long block. short block is just the block crank pistons etc.

I had a few hickups with MMR, but they made it all right with me, if you purchase the long block that will eliminate alot of shipping mistakes.

http://modularmustangracing.com/<< is an example of a site

Doyon

Okay I have to ask because I am so confused! But I think I am about right now.

The short block is just a plain joe nothing just the block crank pistons and what not, and the long block is just a short block but with all of the goodies added on? (hopefully better quality than stock and can handle the power) I was going to add the heads, intake and all of that good stuff seperately, but it sounds like the Long block saves me time and hassle of having to look for all of these parts.

EDIT: I think you guys sold me on a Long block haha. Just seems to be the better choice to make vs the short block. Disposable, thanks for the link! I really like the layout of that site and to me the prices seem to be good, I may very well order from there.

TRexGAWD

A long block is just an assembled motor (heads, etc..).. just shy of buying a complete crate engine.. A short block is just the block and rotating assemble. Much better buy IMO and gives you the opportunity to assemble it yourself and learn a few things.. There will be no difference in what either one can hold power wise, that depends on internals.

disposablehero27

Hes right in no difference. And you can really set your car up THE WAY YOU WANT IT. However you have to build/assemble the rest. I recommend the long block 100% save you so much time man, took me a year to get it all cleaned assembled. Checked. Rechecked. Oh you need a gasket bere. O ring there. This is sold seperately. Just endless endless little very important things. Hes right its a way to learn. Undoubtedly an experience. But by the time i finished i was spent. Ready to smash or kill anything that moved. I too knew just a little about what was going on. Spent days doing it wrong until i figured out the right way. If i knew that before hand. It wouldnt have been so bad

Doyon

This is my first rodeo so i'd try to go the least complicated route. I probably would have built it all up piece by piece if someone had not mentioned a long block, but from what I read, the long blocks will suit my needs perfectly.

disposablehero27

I think so too. Again if i knew then what i know now....i would have purchased tye.strongest most complete block i could find. I say complete because even a long block will need parts. Like the intake throttle body your sensors etc. But trust me. The extra cash the long block cost would have saved me a year because my car was 1 hr away. So everytime i wanted to work on it i had to travel to my fathers garage. The miles alone cost me the dif. And the most frustrating. All the little gaskets o rings seals just add up. Like for example. The dipstick has an o ring. Best replace it. Theres a stud in my firewall that rips thru heater core hoses like butter. Had to pull trans after install to get to it.

Soldier GT

I feel your pain.. My car has been in the shop since April. Just found out last week I had to buy a head for it. It's very frustrating. Also the o-ring on the dipstick is some good info. The mechanics putting the heads on next week and the car should be ready for pickup soon after. Sorry to thread jack but anymore helpful hints?

disposablehero27

Make sure there isnt anything to cut your hoses on your fire wall. I had a stud sticking out and cut my heater hose. Seriously, replace those things. If you put a 7qrt oil pan in, you will prolly have to cut/trim/grind your k member. Unless you install from the bottom. After the install. I tore a hose and had to pull the trans to get to it. When trying to put the trans back in. The engine was not able to tilt backward this 1/4in it needed to get the i put shaft in. So i installed the tubular k member. Now i have plenty of clearance for that. And to get to the started. Put it heavy duty head gaskets. I know youve been on here for awhile but i havent been following your build. What are you looking to do? Also. If you do a windage tray, they do not make a gaskey for it. So you have your oil pan gasket btw the oil pan and windage tray. But no gasket btw the windage try and block. Had to use that 777 silicone for now. So far no leaking. Long tube headers in no way shape or form go in from the top haha. Bottom only. After fighting that same dipstick for two days i found mmr sells a very nice flexible dipstick. Pretty penny but its pretty nice. And may save you a headache. If i were you and your freeze plugs arennt threaded already. I would get them threaded or welded or something. Heard some horror stories of them getting blown out. Nothing like finishing a build and blowin a freeze plug out and having to repull a head. Basically focus on long term man. One and done. Build it right. Be maticoulous. Spend the xtra attention and replace thise little things. Take your time. Dont tie up things until your REALLY done. Idk how many times ive zip tied and cut zip tied.and cut hahaha

Doyon

Thanks you all for all the helpful tips and information. I think for now I have a big chunk of what I need, atleast for the prebuild, before the supercharger. I think the biggest thing I am stuck on now is what I should go with for the SC. I will probably continue to post on this thread or PM you guys (if that is okay) as time goes by, as I know I will run into more questions.

Thanks again !

Soldier GT

Hey man I would also reccomend a place called Mod Max.. Boduke reccommended them to me and they have awesome prices and top notch customer service.. That's where I bought alot of my stuff from (engine gasket kit, forged crank etc etc).