Blew a spark plug and COP clean out of the head
10-19-2012, 02:36 PM
#32
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Sorry, I missed the picture (didn't show up when I looked on my phone). You can see the same feature on the middle of the ceramic portion too. I'm assuming melted/sprayed metal wouldn't stick very well to that type of surface.
It's going to be 1000x easier to tell once I get to the shop and either those marks are going to be gone (if it's water), or there is going to be metal still there.
It's going to be 1000x easier to tell once I get to the shop and either those marks are going to be gone (if it's water), or there is going to be metal still there.
10-22-2012, 03:32 PM
#33
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Got an email and call from the mechanic at the shop today to review what's going on with the car:
- Only the one spark plug hole was stripped, the remaining ones are all in good shape. (I own the tool and have a bunch of time-sert inserts. Should I go ahead and install them myself on the remaining cylinders?)
- The seven other spark plugs were all finger-tight. This makes no sense to me, as I thought they were all going to be too tight in the block (Installed at 40 ft-lb vs 11 ft-lb recommended). Perhaps they we loosing up (for some unknown reason) and the one that popped was just the first to go?
- The fuel pressure regulator was not working correctly and dumping fuel into the intake, per the mechanic. Does this sound plausible? I know the part basically is a diaphragm and a spring to regulate pressure, is this a common maintenance item (The car is at 115k miles)? I'm looking at $140 for the part and $40 for labor. Couldn't find one in stock after searching a couple local auto parts stores, so I'm just going ahead with it to get the car back sooner.
- Only the one spark plug hole was stripped, the remaining ones are all in good shape. (I own the tool and have a bunch of time-sert inserts. Should I go ahead and install them myself on the remaining cylinders?)
- The seven other spark plugs were all finger-tight. This makes no sense to me, as I thought they were all going to be too tight in the block (Installed at 40 ft-lb vs 11 ft-lb recommended). Perhaps they we loosing up (for some unknown reason) and the one that popped was just the first to go?
- The fuel pressure regulator was not working correctly and dumping fuel into the intake, per the mechanic. Does this sound plausible? I know the part basically is a diaphragm and a spring to regulate pressure, is this a common maintenance item (The car is at 115k miles)? I'm looking at $140 for the part and $40 for labor. Couldn't find one in stock after searching a couple local auto parts stores, so I'm just going ahead with it to get the car back sooner.
10-22-2012, 06:56 PM
#35
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Got an email and call from the mechanic at the shop today to review what's going on with the car:
- Only the one spark plug hole was stripped, the remaining ones are all in good shape. (I own the tool and have a bunch of time-sert inserts. Should I go ahead and install them myself on the remaining cylinders?)
- Only the one spark plug hole was stripped, the remaining ones are all in good shape. (I own the tool and have a bunch of time-sert inserts. Should I go ahead and install them myself on the remaining cylinders?)
- The seven other spark plugs were all finger-tight. This makes no sense to me, as I thought they were all going to be too tight in the block (Installed at 40 ft-lb vs 11 ft-lb recommended). Perhaps they we loosing up (for some unknown reason) and the one that popped was just the first to go?
- The fuel pressure regulator was not working correctly and dumping fuel into the intake, per the mechanic. Does this sound plausible? I know the part basically is a diaphragm and a spring to regulate pressure, is this a common maintenance item (The car is at 115k miles)? I'm looking at $140 for the part and $40 for labor. Couldn't find one in stock after searching a couple local auto parts stores, so I'm just going ahead with it to get the car back sooner.
"Dumping fuel into the intake" could only happen if the fuel pressure climbed to ridiculous levels (150 psi +) and overwhelmed the injectors (not at all likely) or the fuel injectors were defective. However it may be your mechanic has attempted to simplify the description of the problem, and that the FRPS is bad and the over pressure is causing the injectors to inject more fuel than their rating at 40 psi.
The FRPS is $73 at www.RockAuto.com,
10-22-2012, 07:22 PM
#36
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Cliffy, I stopped by the shop and had them show me the issue. It was the FRPS, and I'd lean towards your explanation of why they described it.
I'm assuming the additional plug bore deformation could be corrected with the remaining thread serts.
Also, checking in the engine bay they degreased and cleaned the entire compartment. Never had that happen before, quite the nice surprise.
I'm assuming the additional plug bore deformation could be corrected with the remaining thread serts.
Also, checking in the engine bay they degreased and cleaned the entire compartment. Never had that happen before, quite the nice surprise.
10-22-2012, 07:57 PM
#37
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It is not uncommon for mechanics in the field to refer to various components by their commonly held descriptions, even if that description is in error. The best example being "alternators".
Automobiles have not had alternators since the mid/late 80s when the rectifiers and regulator were incorporated into the device's assembly (they used to be mounted on the firewall), however everyone but the engineers still call them that.
An alternator is an electromechanical device that produces alternating current power , a generator produces direct current power. The thingys in our cars produce direct current and are therefore generators.
From the 2003 Ford Shop Manual:
Oddly enough the things at construction sites and in emergency use after power outages are alternators, but we call them generators--go figure.
If you want to mess with a FLAPS parts guy's mind go in and ask for a generator--bring a printout of the shop manual stuff above with you so you don't get sent off to the nut house...
Automobiles have not had alternators since the mid/late 80s when the rectifiers and regulator were incorporated into the device's assembly (they used to be mounted on the firewall), however everyone but the engineers still call them that.
An alternator is an electromechanical device that produces alternating current power , a generator produces direct current power. The thingys in our cars produce direct current and are therefore generators.
From the 2003 Ford Shop Manual:
Oddly enough the things at construction sites and in emergency use after power outages are alternators, but we call them generators--go figure.
If you want to mess with a FLAPS parts guy's mind go in and ask for a generator--bring a printout of the shop manual stuff above with you so you don't get sent off to the nut house...
10-22-2012, 08:16 PM
#38
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I actually knew that, as one of the parts of my job is designing emergency generators and backup turbines for Verizon Central Offices. I'll have to try that next time im at advanced auto.
Last edited by Syracuse315; 10-23-2012 at 06:26 AM.
10-22-2012, 08:22 PM
#39
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It will freak them out and they will consider you a complete moron--go for it!
10-23-2012, 02:57 PM
#40
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Finally picking up the car, should be brand new by now with all the work:
From the shop:
- Thread Sert Repair/Insert
- Rear Pinion Seal
- Coolant Flush
- New spark plugs
- 2 new COPs
- Fuel rail pressure sensor
- 2 wheel stud/nuts
And what I'll finish up:
- 7 remaining thread-sert inserts
- New front brake pads/rotors
- New front and rear stainless steel brake lines
- New rear brake calipers
- New idle/idle arm pulleys (squeaking like crazy)
- New serpentine belt
- Oil change
Total Cost: $Too much
From the shop:
- Thread Sert Repair/Insert
- Rear Pinion Seal
- Coolant Flush
- New spark plugs
- 2 new COPs
- Fuel rail pressure sensor
- 2 wheel stud/nuts
And what I'll finish up:
- 7 remaining thread-sert inserts
- New front brake pads/rotors
- New front and rear stainless steel brake lines
- New rear brake calipers
- New idle/idle arm pulleys (squeaking like crazy)
- New serpentine belt
- Oil change
Total Cost: $Too much
Last edited by Syracuse315; 10-23-2012 at 03:42 PM.