AwwPhooey

Hello everyone-
Hoping you folks can help me with strange “goings on” with my fuse boxes, cruise control, TRAC control, cigarette lighter, accessory port, fog lights, sex lif… errr, nevermind on that one. ;D

Here’s the scoop. I picked up a 2000 hardtop GT, manual tranny, with seized engine due to tweaked timing chain tensioner. I have a totaled 2000 convertible GT with A/T (18 year old son, ‘nuff said), engine not damaged. Convertible engine went into hardtop. Unfortunately I don’t know what the hardtop’s electrical history is.

Once we got the engine in, started fine and runs like a champ. Problem is, the lighter and accessory plug don’t work, the fog light switch doesn’t light up and the fog lamps don’t turn on. Additionally, the TRAC control switch doesn’t light, and all aspects of cruise control are non- existent.

So, I started by checking underdash fuses, which was even more confusing for me. First off, all fuses were visually integral and correct amperage. Where it gets strange is, after visual I put the lighted screwdriver to each one, and the following fuses do not light the screwdriver up BUT the related accessory still works:

Fuse 4 – Right low beam headlamp (10 amp)
Fuse 10 – Left low beam headlamp (10 amp)
Fuse 35 – Shift Lock Actuator, PCM, Speed Control Servo, ABS Module (15 amp) – assume this is working because I can start and drive my car just fine
Fuse 37 – Adjustable Illuminator (10 amp)
Fuse 38 – High Beams (20 amp)
Fuse 41 – Brake Lamp (15 amp)

I double checked each of the above slots by replacing with a new fuse, just to see what would happen. The replacement fuses don’t light I then checked the fuse box in engine compartment, and all light up fine. I didn’t check relays as I’m not sure how (resistance check?).

Can anyone lend a hand here? Really stumped.

Phoo

petrock

Checking for power at the fuse is only accurate if there is power going to the fuse. Not all fuses have power to them all the time. Some require a switch to be flipped, like the ignition switch or headlight switch. So, unless you are sure that power is flowing through the fuse then your test may be invalid. A better test is to use a multi-meter set to test continuity or use a fuse tester (available at most auto parts stores for a couple bucks) and touch the multi-meter leads/fuse tester to the metal tabs on each fuse. Re-run your tests and see what you come up with. Good luck...