flyboy1294

I figured I'd run this one by you guys to get some input.

When I bought my car, all of the windows worked fine. A few weeks later, I noticed that from the driver's side switch, the passenger window would take a few clicks to work. The passenger side switch, and the drivers window worked flawlessly. Within another week or so, I had totally lost control of the passenger window from the driver's side switch, and it hasn't been back since. Again, I can control the passenger window fine from the passenger's side switch, just not the driver's side.

So I did some Google-ing and found the issue is often times the switch. So I swapped it out for the driver's side, and found that the switch wasn't the issue.

Now that I have the car put away for the winter, I'd like to diagnose the issue. Today I tore into the driver's side door, and found that it was getting power to the switch with a test light.

Where should I go from here? Does this mean there is a break in the wires? The window doesn't go up or down, and you do not hear the motor engage whatsoever.

I appreciate the help, as always.

Stevo86

The drivers side switch and passenger switch shouldn't be the same. If they are and I'm totally wrong because I can't remember what they look like consult a wiring diagram and that should lead you to your answer. Check for continuity with an ohm meter between the power and ground side of the P/S switch and D/S switch to make sure it isn't a wiring issue.

01GTvp

Test lights aren't always reliable. Do what Stevo 86 said and go from there. Sounds like a short or high resistance on the drivers door passenger window switch. Also go back and check for voltage with a DMM. You should be getting roughly 12-13v ( 13V with the running, 12V if not and just accessories are on.) so anywhere between there. 11.9V means there is high resistance in the circuit.

cliffyk

The switches are all the same, other than on some the cap on the driver's side front has AUTO silk-screened on it. Ford p/n F4ZZ 14529 A.

Here's the wiring diagram for the passenger side window:



You can see that with both switches in their neutral position both inputs to the motor are grounded, I.e. the motor doesn't run.

When the passenger's side switch is pressed power and ground are routed to the motor through that switch's output terminals 6 and 10. Up or down is controlled by swapping the polarity to the motor.

When the driver's side switch is pressed power and ground are also routed to the motor through its outputs at terminals 8 and 15, but power and ground also pass through the passenger side switch's neutral position contacts.

So, if the neutral contacts in the passenger side switch were bad the passenger switch would continue to work the window motor, but the driver side switch would not.

'Twas me I would get a new switch for the passenger side. Junk yards are full of these as they were used on all Mustangs from '94 to '04, and a bunch of other models as well...

flyboy1294

Cliffyk was right on the money as always. I swapped out the passenger switch on the passenger side with a switch I knew worked, and I can now operate the passenger window from both sides! I would have ripped out both door panels and the dash and started hunting down shorts before I ever thought to check the switch that actually rolled down the window!

With that said, it's time to hit the junk yards for some interior parts.

Thank you all for the help!