cpaliescheskey

So I have a 2001 ford mustang with 180,000 on it every year for the past 3 i have had to replace the coil pack at least once and plugs and wires at least twice. well last night when i was coimg home it did the same thing service engine soon light blinking the jerking car like its missfiring and all. i have become more than frustrated replacing all these things so i finally took it to a shop they said plugs/wires/coil pack all ok, they believe it is my #2 cylinder going bad and thats why i have had so many previous problems. my question is this..is there any way just to replace a cylinder or do you need a whole new engine and is it even worth it because along with this issue my car also has a rear main seal oil leak so i continually put oil in it. is it time to just sell it? thanks in advance

Stevo86

Replacing a cylinder is quite impossible. Replacing a piston is certainly possible. Did they test the #2 cylinder to see if it loses compression? If it is losing compression or the rings are going bad you are going to need to rebuild the engine.

Seabee1993

They need to do a compression check, and then check the plug threads too. I had one instance where a ford tech didn't torque the plug properly and it worked it's way out just enough to throw a code and the current was traveling down the exhaust to the frame. Sounded like an exhaust leak it was so loud! (This is my F150, don't worry! LOL) Keep us posted!

uberstang1

Generally your symptoms are not related to rotating assembly fail, rather a fuel or ignition issue. When u pull the plug is it normal?

cpaliescheskey

They said in order for them to "BE SURE" i needed to replace all the plugs and wires first before they could tell if the cylinder is ACTUALLY failing sounds like bs to me..im like no ive done this a million times im beyond frustrated im a college student i cant afford to play replace all this to see if its thats. saebee my car is making a loud noise i wonder if its something like that. but idk whats odd is if you are going anywhere from 0-35 mph nothing its fine if you go 40-65 the light comes on its missfires and jerks if you push it to 70 its fine again lol i guess thats bc it is coming from that cylinder? im not exactly car savy! thanks for all the feed back

Stevo86

Ok here is what you do if they "think" you have low compression. Go to autozone and buy a compression tester. Turn off your fuel system using the connector in the D/S of the trunk. Just unplug it. Screw the compression tester into each cylinder individually making sure you disconnect that associated coil so you don't shock yourself. Crank the engine over a few times. Look at the gauge and record the reading. Ensure it hold pressure as well. Compare the readings of all the cylinders to verify they are close to each other. Then google the actual specification and compare your readings to that.

I assume you have a v-6 since you said plugs and wires? You can test the coil pack with a volt/ohm meter. Also available cheap at autozone. Measure the resistance (ohms) across the towers of the coil pack on all 3 sets. Each individual coil has two towers that are located across from each other. Once again compare readings they should be very close to each other. You can do the same for the wires but their resistance will vary depending upon length.

Get yourself a Haynes or Chiltons manual, better yet talk to CliffyK and get the factory manual. If you are a college student you can look up detailed instructions on all of this and I'm confident you can learn how to fix it yourself.

uberstang1

If u have a code for a cinder just take the plug wire and fuel injector from that cyljnder and swap it with another, if the problem follows those items u narrowed it down to one of the three, that shop sounds like amatuers to me. Theres ways to check the wires and coils with a miltimeter.

caaraa

Thanks for this post guys I was going through the same thing.