4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
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What u recommend for me as far as throttle body/intake for my setup. I think improvement here would put me @ limit for my internals (425ish+ rwhp).
With stock internals I would not push it that hard and instead keep it down around 400 rwHP. Even that will negatively affect engine life--if you actually use it regularly. I once asked a close friend, who was an engineer for a couple of the "big name" tuner manufacturers for nearly 20 years, before starting his own company, "What is the practical limit for stock PI internals?". With absolutely no hesitation he said "425 HP, you can set your watch by it."
The sintered metal connecting rods are the weak link. But look at it this way, when Ford built the 2003 and 2004 390 fwHP (331 rwHP) Cobra's they changed to a forged rotating assembly--this was not just so they could spend more money, it was because they felt the 2V internals were not up top the task.
As to your TB and plenum needs, any 75 mm TB and aftermarket plenum will pass enough air for the needs of any build with a stock bottom end. Oddly, and somewhat counter-intuitively, the TB and plenum become less of a factor with forced induction. This is because as soon as the boost comes up the intake tract becomes just a large pressure vessel shoving air into the engine--the engine is no longer trying to suck in pulses of air as with running n/a, where intake size and tuning (on both sides of the TB) are prime factors.
A whole different ball game. It's sort of like connecting a 10-foot 3/4" ID hose with no nozzle to a domestic sillcock and measuring the water flow rate. And then switching to a 10-foot 1" OD hose (78% larger). The flow rate will not change by 78%, if at all, because the 3/4" hose was as big as was needed.
On an n/a setup the intake air pulses can stack up, bang into one another and create standing wave harmonics that can actually "suck out" power at certain frequencies (engine rpms). The n/a intake, especially before the TB, is not "just a pipe" as many like to put forth...
Go with everything listed in the 1st thread on here. I would suggest a good set of underdrive pulleys, they will free up some good power and youll feel a bit more pull in 5th gear, and better fuel millage.
2000 BRIGHT ATLANTIC BLUE MUSTANG GT
FULL BOLTONS BY BBK&PYPES
VENOM 24LB INJECTORS
WALBRO 255 FUEL PUMP
FORD RACING 4.10 GEARS
KYB QUAD AND REAR SHOCKS
CFN COLD FUSION NITROUS KIT (DRY) 125 SHOT
19X10 CHROME DIABLO WHEELS
SCT X3 91 OCTANE TUNED
TOOK ME 2 YEARS OF MONEY SWEAT&TEARS TO GET HER FROM BONE STOCK TO SOLID NUMBERS AND I DIDN'T INCLUDE THE COSMETIC WORK I'VE PUT IN.
"Other mods such as underdrive pulleys, lightweight wheels (all else being equal 18" wheels/tires weigh more than 17"), flywheels and driveshafts can improve acceleration by reducing parasitic load and rotating mass. However if you are the sort that never "floors it" and always shifts at 3k rpm then don't bother; you will never know they are installed. Their benefit is only realised under hard acceleration and mostly in the lower gears." [emphasis added]
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