Brake caliper replacement? Bleeding?
02-09-2013, 08:16 AM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: GA
Posts: 261
Brake caliper replacement? Bleeding?
I've had projects involving exhaust, suspension, intake, and cosmetics... Time to figure out the brake system!!!
One of my Front calipers on my 2003 GT has some damage to the cylinder that compresses to the pad. Apparently the pad has some rivets sticking out and it "ripped" a piece of the cylinder. I need to replace the calipers, and bleed the brake system for new fluid. My questions....
Is the caliper replacement as simple as replacing old with new, THEN bleeding the system? Will that get the air out of the calipers and load them with fluid? I've heard bleeding the system by yourself is a pain, but is it possible?
Any suggestions on upgrading brakes while I'm at it? Keeping the budget around $500 or less.
One of my Front calipers on my 2003 GT has some damage to the cylinder that compresses to the pad. Apparently the pad has some rivets sticking out and it "ripped" a piece of the cylinder. I need to replace the calipers, and bleed the brake system for new fluid. My questions....
Is the caliper replacement as simple as replacing old with new, THEN bleeding the system? Will that get the air out of the calipers and load them with fluid? I've heard bleeding the system by yourself is a pain, but is it possible?
Any suggestions on upgrading brakes while I'm at it? Keeping the budget around $500 or less.
02-09-2013, 01:40 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: GA
Posts: 261
Same here!!! Most of my friends don't care much about car stuff, especially when it comes to maintenance. So I'm looking for a way to get it done alone.
02-09-2013, 06:42 PM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,147
They work, but you have to make sure you keep an eye on the MS so there is fluid in it and also the bleeder line for bubbles. Just means more getting in and out of the car. Easy stuff.
02-13-2013, 04:10 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 180
I agree with chub. 2 man meathod works best for me. I'd recommend opening bleeder and pushing the pedal down, tighten bleeder and let pedal back up at least twice per wheel before pumping to speed it up. I don't know bleeding sequence off the top of my head.
02-14-2013, 03:38 AM
#10
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 545
Vacuum bleeders suck. They are a pain. Instead, try a Motive Power Bleeder. It's like a hand pump bug sprayer with a brake reservoir cap on the end of the hose instead of a spray head.
Fill it with brake fluid, attach it to the reservoir, pump it to 12 psi (built in gauge) and bleed the brakes one at a time, master (if needed) RR, LR, RF, LF.
I mark a plastic soda bottle in 4 oz. increments and use it to drain the old brake fluid. That way, you keep track of how much fluid you've bled as you go along. There are only two mistakes you can make with a Motive Power Bleeder: Not attaching the cap properly before pumping up the bottle and running out of new brake fluid. If you run out of fluid, you'll pump air into your brake system and have to refill and re bleed.
This works better than having someone pump the brake pedal while you open and close the bleeders.
Fill it with brake fluid, attach it to the reservoir, pump it to 12 psi (built in gauge) and bleed the brakes one at a time, master (if needed) RR, LR, RF, LF.
I mark a plastic soda bottle in 4 oz. increments and use it to drain the old brake fluid. That way, you keep track of how much fluid you've bled as you go along. There are only two mistakes you can make with a Motive Power Bleeder: Not attaching the cap properly before pumping up the bottle and running out of new brake fluid. If you run out of fluid, you'll pump air into your brake system and have to refill and re bleed.
This works better than having someone pump the brake pedal while you open and close the bleeders.