10-08-2015, 01:35 PM
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Battery died, now won't start.... II
02-15-2013, 02:36 PM
#11
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Why is there a valve? There shouldn't be a "valve". Did some one install a shut off valve for racing? Valve suggests your actually manually closing a valve/petcock. Thats not stock in a 04".
There also should be a red button on the inertia switch near your drivers side tail lamp in trunk behind the carpet.
The fuel filter is in front of your gas tank.
There also should be a red button on the inertia switch near your drivers side tail lamp in trunk behind the carpet.
The fuel filter is in front of your gas tank.
The fuel pump fuse is #14 (20 A) in the battery junction box. It feeds the fuel pump relay which is in the CCRM (Common Control Relay Module).
The fuel pump is controlled by the FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module). The PCM (Powertrain Control Module, aka ECU) monitors the fuel rail pressure and sends a variable pulse width signal to the FPDM, the FPDM interprets that signal and controls the voltage to the fuel pump.
Have someone with better ears listen at the filler cap when the key is first turned on--if the pump is running it will be heard for 1 to 2 seconds after switching the key on.
02-15-2013, 04:46 PM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 2,307
I thought so also but it seemed possible that a valve was actually added so I wanted to make sure. 
Not a bad idea to add a fuel prese gauge to any car I guess.
I aint no puppy either (53 shhhh) cliffy, lol.
Not a bad idea to add a fuel prese gauge to any car I guess.
I aint no puppy either (53 shhhh) cliffy, lol.
Last edited by FrostByte; 02-15-2013 at 04:48 PM.
02-16-2013, 11:13 AM
#13
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 8
The diagram below for the Battery Junction Box isn't exactly the same, but We pulled the fuses and visually inspected them. My Son-n-law pulled and visually inspected the highlighted fuses in the Central Junction Box... (he is young & small enough to get to fuses). We didn't find any fuses that were visually blown. Normally, I would have used my circuit tester light to check the fuses, but we discovered that the key was left in the "ON" position for the past several days so the battery is dead as dead can be.
The only thing I can offer is to actually start pull and checking fuses with a continuity meter, it is not unusual for one to look good, yet have the fuse wire cracked or blown in a way that is not obvious.
At a minimum check these:
Battery junction Box (under the hood):
Central junction Box (under the dash):
The next step would obviously be to start checking for fuel pressure and spark, then if either is absent dig deeper...
At a minimum check these:
Battery junction Box (under the hood):
Central junction Box (under the dash):
The next step would obviously be to start checking for fuel pressure and spark, then if either is absent dig deeper...
02-16-2013, 11:17 AM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 8
Being a geezer myself I'm pretty sure he means the inertia switch.
The fuel pump fuse is #14 (20 A) in the battery junction box. It feeds the fuel pump relay which is in the CCRM (Common Control Relay Module).
The fuel pump is controlled by the FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module). The PCM (Powertrain Control Module, aka ECU) monitors the fuel rail pressure and sends a variable pulse width signal to the FPDM, the FPDM interprets that signal and controls the voltage to the fuel pump.
Have someone with better ears listen at the filler cap when the key is first turned on--if the pump is running it will be heard for 1 to 2 seconds after switching the key on.
The fuel pump fuse is #14 (20 A) in the battery junction box. It feeds the fuel pump relay which is in the CCRM (Common Control Relay Module).
The fuel pump is controlled by the FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module). The PCM (Powertrain Control Module, aka ECU) monitors the fuel rail pressure and sends a variable pulse width signal to the FPDM, the FPDM interprets that signal and controls the voltage to the fuel pump.
Have someone with better ears listen at the filler cap when the key is first turned on--if the pump is running it will be heard for 1 to 2 seconds after switching the key on.
Like I said in other post, battery is dead, so back to Auto Zone it went to be charged.
03-30-2013, 07:50 PM
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 8
I just wanted to update everyone on my neighbor's Mustang. The fuel pump was full of crap from sitting so long. The Mustang only has 7k miles on the clock.
Anyway, this list felt it was a fuel related problem and they were correct. Thanks for all the help...
Anyway, this list felt it was a fuel related problem and they were correct. Thanks for all the help...
Have you tried to simply disconnect the negative battery cable then reconnect it?
Wife's Escape did a similar thing when I disconnected the battery for a couple days while I worked on it. When I reconnected it, it started up fine the first time. Second time, everything would work but in her case, the car wouldn't crank. Fuel pump would prime but no cranking. Disconnected the ground for about 30 seconds, reconnected, no issues since.
I'm thinking since the battery on yours was so dead, the capacitors in the PCM completely discharged as well. When you hooked up the new battery something didn't reboot/reset correctly.
Wife's Escape did a similar thing when I disconnected the battery for a couple days while I worked on it. When I reconnected it, it started up fine the first time. Second time, everything would work but in her case, the car wouldn't crank. Fuel pump would prime but no cranking. Disconnected the ground for about 30 seconds, reconnected, no issues since.
I'm thinking since the battery on yours was so dead, the capacitors in the PCM completely discharged as well. When you hooked up the new battery something didn't reboot/reset correctly.
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logan409
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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09-26-2015 07:43 PM
