Disconnecting the battery will not "reset" the tune. The tune is stored in an EEPROM, (E
emory) that can only be erased by applying +18 V to pin 13 of the OBD2 connector and then deliberately writing to the memory chip.
Fuses #8 (50 A) and #17 (20 A) in the Battery Junction Box are power to the ABS module motor and solenoids;
Fuse #29 15A in the Central Junction Box (CJB, under the dash) is the main power to the ABS module microcontroller;
Fuses #35 (15 A) in the CJB received power from the Brake Pedal Position switch, which is powered by fuse #33 (15 A) in the CJB. Fuse #35 only has power when the brake pedal is depressed
. Fuse #33 also power the stop lights and front signal lamps in "hazard" mode.
First thing to do is check fuses 8 and 17 in the battery box, then fuses 29 and 33 in the CJB. If the brake or hazard lights works then fuse 35 in the CJB must be good.
After that if the ABS and t/c are still not behaving then it's time to suspect the ABS module. A common failure in the module is the MOSFET used to control the pump motor:
As you can see if it is burned out it will be obvious.
The original transistor is a Vishay SUB75N06-08
, which has been superseded by part number SUM90N06-4M4P
. DigiKey has these for $3.59 each
To get at it you need to cut the plastic ABS module open along the bottom seam, a rotary wheel in a Dremel tool works great.
However if it was me I would view this as a great time to delete the ABS and traction control, and shed some weight. You can buy an ABS delete block from PRB Machining for $130
And just get rid of the entire pile of unnecessary nonsense...