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Old 04-25-2013, 07:08 PM   #1
JJ Glo
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Default Seized spark plugs

Anyone here have experience dealing with seized spark plugs?

I think it's time to change mine since the car struggles a bit sometimes to start, and today I had to crank it twice to start it since it failed on the first try, but I haven't been able to check the spark plugs since they seem to be seized on there and I don't want to put too much force on them.

Today I called a few shops and they all quoted me $200+ to do it so that's out of the question. Should I spray the plugs with some PB Blaster and let it sit for a couple hours then try to work them out? Any other ideas?

Also, what spark plugs do you guys recommend to use? Preferably ones that can be found at AutoZone since my nearest Ford Dealer is about 25 minutes away.
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Last edited by JJ Glo; 04-25-2013 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:28 PM   #2
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You can spray some penetrating oil, and warming the heads up a bit helps too.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:34 PM   #3
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I like to use CLP for breaking stuff loose, you don't have to soak the heck out of it. A little goes a long way.
Motorcraft platinums have served me well , I attained them at Advance Auto, good luck.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:30 PM   #4
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I think I'll give it a shot on Sunday.

Anyone know the f/t lbs of torque to tighten them too? What if I can't get a torque wrench just hand tighten them and then a 1/4 turn?

Last edited by JJ Glo; 04-25-2013 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:43 AM   #5
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I run NGK TR6s (one heat range colder than stock) plugs after I had my Mach dyno tuned and pulled them last week after 22,000 miles. Fortunately, the engine builder/tuner is experienced and the plugs were torqued correctly.

The torque spec for the Mach 1 plugs is 13 -15 lb.ft. NGK recommends the same torque when installing in any aluminum heads and says to tighten 1/16 of a turn past seating the plug using only your fingers. (See spark plug box.)

A 1/4 turn is way more than 13 -15 lb.ft.

A lot of guys swear by changing plugs on a stone cold engine, but Ford says to do it when the engine is warm, which it what I did.

NGK recommends not using anti-seize as their plug threads are specially plated. If you use anti-seize, a little bit on the threads (not the seat) is enough.

1/16 of a turn is 360/16 or 22.5 degrees. 90 degrees is 12:00 to 3:00 on a clock face and 22.5 degrees is a little less than 12:00 to 1:00. After seating the plugs by hand, I attach the rachet to the extension and rotate it so it is facing straight up. That way, it is easier to estimate where 1:00 is when you're tightening. I also hold the rachet close to the driver and not at the end of the handle for more control.

On my DOHC, I've also learned to wrap some duct tape around the spark plug socket and extension because 70% of the time, the rubber insert holding the spark plug holds better than that ball thingy on the end of the extension.

The NGK website has some good instructions and even videos on spark plug installation.

Last edited by Sonic Mustang; 04-26-2013 at 01:50 AM.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:27 AM   #6
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Thanks for the info.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ Glo View Post
Anyone here have experience dealing with seized spark plugs?

I think it's time to change mine since the car struggles a bit sometimes to start, and today I had to crank it twice to start it since it failed on the first try, but I haven't been able to check the spark plugs since they seem to be seized on there and I don't want to put too much force on them.

Today I called a few shops and they all quoted me $200+ to do it so that's out of the question. Should I spray the plugs with some PB Blaster and let it sit for a couple hours then try to work them out? Any other ideas?

Also, what spark plugs do you guys recommend to use? Preferably ones that can be found at AutoZone since my nearest Ford Dealer is about 25 minutes away.
Spray a little PB Blaster or whatever in there, let it sit for a few (overnight if you really want to go crazy), that should do it.

Plugs, I like to use regular coppers (Autolite 764's currently), but stock replacement platinums will be fine as well. Don't waste money on gimmicky plugs, it's all bs.

I found that closing the gap a little from stock .054" spec to about .046" produces a really clean steady idle and was recommended to me by a Ford tech; at the oem gap spec I had a real slight intermittent miss and closing it up some took care of it. Anyway, put a little anti-sieze lube on the plug threads and torque spec is 11-14 lb/ft. If not using a torque wrench, apply about the same effort as you think it would take to pick up an item weighing 11 - 14 lbs and hope for the best.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:46 PM   #8
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Yeah, I think im going to go with the PB blaster.

I'm also going to clean the throttle body to see if that helps with the starting and idle.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:23 AM   #9
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The amount of effort required to lift something is in no way similar to the amount of torque applied to a bolt. Considering these heads are famous for blowing out spark plugs which turns into a HUGE PITA just go to sears and buy the $25 beam torque wrench. It's far cheaper than a Heli-coil install.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:33 PM   #10
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For the tool aspect, here is something very much worth checking out if you plan on keeping the car for any time:
http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-...cool-tool.html
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:33 PM
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