4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
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Oil blowing out RADIATOR. No oil in block, no coolant in oil
Oil blowing out RADIATOR. No oil in block, no coolant in oil
1998 4.6 GT 5 speed
Today I noticed oil under the car but it was under the nose, opened the hood and oil was billowing out the radiator mixed in the coolant. Pulled the oil dipstick and no oil left in the engine, BUT NO COOLANT in the oil.
What do I need to check? Is there anywhere I can look without pulling the heads since it is not a blown head gasket in the traditional sense?
I've heard possible intake gasket??? If so can I get some pointers on where and what to look for?
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Last edited by Doublevision; 05-02-2013 at 06:23 PM.
I am gonna say to check the head gasket mine went and did the same thing, it depends where the head gasket is torn. Also have to remember that compression is stronger then water pump, which would cause oil to be forced into the coolant.
Changed the oil plate gasket so we will see how it goes. It'll take a few days to get all that damn oil out of the radiator. I've flushed it 8 times already tonight and it is still shooting oil spurts out the drain so it's going to take a bit. The only way I can really tell right now is to watch the oil level. It was bone dry when this issue surfaced the other day as it was all in the radiator.
There is a better design to the newer blue gaskets. The plastic encases the rubber seals on the blue one versus the orange one the seals hang over the edge of the gasket. This must have been an issue that caused a redesign so hopefully that was leaking and the new one fixes everything up. *crossing fingers*
Yes lets hope but I don't think that's your problem. That old gasket does not look destroyed but I am looking at a picture I don't have it in my hand lol. Be sure to change oil plus filter (which I'm sure you gonna do because u have the oil cooler off) and coolant (which I know u are trying to flush) just to be safe you never know if a little bit of coolant made it into the oil. I know u said its bone dry on the dip stick but I"m sure there is still oil in the bottom of the pan because the dip stick does not go all the way to the bottom of the oil pan. Well good luck keep me posted.
Could i run defreaser through the coolant system just once? The radiator has been flushed many times and still it is sticking to everything inside. I can see the oil stuck to the inside of everything. Its not really flushing out.
I was thinking some purple power then flush a few more times to clean it out.
I assume u mean degreaser lol. Honestly I have never done that or heard of anyone doing that, I don't know what that may due to seals I would read the product over good I'm sure u could dilute that with water, I would put it all together run maybe a diluted batch of that in place of coolant and run engine just tell it gets warm/hot or maybe tell thermostat opens or you maybe can remove the thermostat during your process to get your flush to move threw block and heads a little better do not run it forever then flush it by removing the lower radiator hose and let it flow before it cools down and sticks again when removing hose being careful not to get burnt. Oil is like grease in a pan when its cold it tends to stick but when u get it warm it thins out and moves. I know what your saying u want all that crap out. I know there is coolant flushes out there u can by at a local parts store just don't know how well they will work against oil.
Looks yummy lol, so is it helping for the most part to get the oil out of the cooling system? Are you noticing if oil is pumping into coolant as your running it again? Also I was reading back and you said that u checked to see if there was coolant in the heads what did u just look through oil cap or did u actually pull the valve cover? Also did you drain what was left of the oil in the pan to see if u had coolant in it since u said the dip stick showed nothing? Also you mentioned intake gasket, in our engines the only thing that goes through the intake gasket is coolant, there is a crossover passage in the front where thermostat is and nipple in the back where it comes back from the heater core in dash so there is really no place for contamination there. The only real places are in the heads/head gasket, if there was a crack in the block which I highly doubt these are cast iron blocks or the oil cooler which u replaced the gasket on or a crack in oil cooler. So if this don't solve your problem I'm gonna lean pretty heavy on the head gasket being bad. If in fact u need to replace your head gasket I don't know how good your mechanical skills are but its really not as bad as people make it out to be. As long as you have a decent memory and have pretty much a socket set with metric sockets lol you should be ok doing it. The only thing that you would need to get if you didn't have would be a torque wrench, a crank pulley puller to get the front cover off and fuel line disconnects to get fuel lines un hooked from fuel rail. But again let me know, I have taken an interest to solving your problem, it keeps me involved and thinking. I just had hand surgery and cant return to work for a month so it sucks but talking about fixing things takes my mind off not working cause I feel like I'm helping another mechanic and fellow mustang friend lol. Well good luck keep me up to date!
I think I have it flushed enough to be good to drive. It's NEARLY cleaned out after 29 flushes over 3 days. (AYE!) The Oil Adapter plate gasket seems to have been the issue. I've driven it 175 miles in the past 2 days and not lost a drop of oil. Given that the previous state was zero oil left in the pan and overflowing radiator full of oil I have to conclude it worked. Will monitor for the next week, see how it goes.
I am glad you got it going, good lets hope its just that. Yea keep a good eye on it, I don't know how often you check your fluids but it may be a slower process it depends how wide the crack in the gasket was or is. But cool enjoy!
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