4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
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As summer is here the wife is bit....complaining that she doesnt get to drive the cobra due to the looseness, floating of the steering. It really isnt bad, but I want to fix.
The steering tends to drift a little, but when you go over tracks or bumps it really feels floating, which has led me to believe that it is the steering rack bushings.
Honestly I have been repairing my cars for the past 20 years and have never had to replace steering bushings, it has been control arms, tie rods, and ball joints.
I have read a number of treads on the site and am checking to see if anyone has the following,
The best way to diagnose this is the issue.
The 1997 cobra (115k miles) is stock, not driven hard. Any recommendations on parts?
Has anyone had luck with the $15 Amercian Muscle standard bushings? (not being cheap, just am planning on ordering floor mats from them and was going to add this in).
ANy links to good videos would help. DOes the steering need to be disconnected?
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Honestly, I have no idea what you mean. You have inner and outer tie rod, spindle, which connects to the ball joint, which is pressed into the lower comtrol arm which attaches to the k member.. The back of the spindle ties into the strut.
Doing my best to figure out what you are trying to replace. The floating feeling could just be bad struts, as it will undulate more than one time over a bump.
Yes get some poly ones for a couple bucks more. Best $20 I spent, and made a world of improvement in my 110k gt. I undid the tierods from the knuckle, steering shaft bolt and the rack studs itself and dropped the whole thing. You don't need to undo the power steering lines, you will have enough slack to drop it to swap the bushings.
how did you lock the steering wheel? Was the steering linkage seperated?
I tried to reply to your pm, but it says your inbox is full. anyway, no, I didn't have to remove the wheels. I just lifted the front of the car enough to where I could work comfortably (use jack stands). you don't have to lock the steering wheel since the linkage only connects one way, but if it makes you feel better, tape or tie it and keep the front wheels straight. you don't have to disconnect the linkage, just make sue you don't force anything. I disconnected it just to be safe, I really didn't want to fix a problem and cause another.
2002 GT: 4.10s, AM CAI, UPR o/r X-Pipe, MGW STS, Flowmaster 40's, more to come
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