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Old 05-31-2013, 01:33 PM   #1
jjstandardz
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Default car diagnosis questions

Ok guys I have had puffs of white smoke out of my exhaust randomly for the last few weeks, mainly when I take off from intersections or when my car has been idling for a few minutes, it dissapears right away as well. It doesnt always happen just when im stopped and take off usually and after the car warms up. It does have an offroas x pipe as well that I never got a tune with but I didnt think that could cause a problem like this?

I also have a leak, I have been continually refilling my coolant and power steering fluid the last few days and I get puddles wherever my car sits on the front passenger side.

I am going to take my car in for a diagnosis next week after I get paid and have a few days off, should I just take it to a dealership so I can find out exactly what is wrong with it? Hopefully its just a leak or something like a pcv valve (read that these can cause white exhaust smoke), considering the possibility of a head gasket even though my car has never been overheated and theres no coolant or oil mixing together.

My brother in law seems to think it could be leaky valve seals but I havent read much about them.

If it turns out to be a head gasket I would like to do the work myself, it seems it is more time consuming than anything with the timing chains being the hardest part. I have all summer and a garage so it would be a good project for me.
Does anybody have any other ideas on what it could be?

So do you guys recommend going to a dealership and getting a definitive diagnosis before I go tearing stuff apart? Also what else should I do/replace when pulling the heads and gaskets besides getting them resurfaced? Is haynes or chiltons better, or should I try to find a ford service manual? (Dont really know where to look)

Thanks for any input I really appreciate it!
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Last edited by jjstandardz; 05-31-2013 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 06-01-2013, 09:05 AM   #2
96t-bird
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Check all of your coolant lines. check around the intake manifold,esp around the temp housing, your coolant tank, your water pump. Get a ford service manual or chiltons.
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Old 06-01-2013, 12:38 PM   #3
jjstandardz
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Originally Posted by 96t-bird View Post
Check all of your coolant lines. check around the intake manifold,esp around the temp housing, your coolant tank, your water pump. Get a ford service manual or chiltons.
Ok thanks can any of these leaks cause white smoke?
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:52 PM   #4
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Losing coolant without a visible leak and white smoke would lead me to suspect a head gasket leak.

Can you see any coolant in your oil? It could look like bubbles on the dipstick or a milky appearance.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:37 PM   #5
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A bad egr can cause white smoke.
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:54 AM   #6
jjstandardz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkhorse04GT View Post
Losing coolant without a visible leak and white smoke would lead me to suspect a head gasket leak.

Can you see any coolant in your oil? It could look like bubbles on the dipstick or a milky appearance.
well i havent really had a chance to do a good visual inspection because i have been so busy with work, but i know there is a pretty good external leak because of the puddles in my garage and such

but no there are no bubbles at all or any milky appearances in the oil
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Old 06-02-2013, 01:09 AM   #7
Stevo86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjstandardz View Post
Also what else should I do/replace when pulling the heads and gaskets besides getting them resurfaced? Is haynes or chiltons better, or should I try to find a ford service manual? (Dont really know where to look)

Thanks for any input I really appreciate it!
Replace any seals you can while you have it apart just because. Also spend the $40 it costs to get the OTC alignment tools. When setting it back in time loosen the cams and set them to the proper place using the cam alignment tool. Then set the crank using the crank alignment tool. Retighten the D/S cam since it is the rear chain. You do this so you don't bend any valves when moving the engine with it out of time. Line up the marks with the colored links. Install the tensioners and give the cam an easy turn counter clockwise to tighten the chain. Ensure the chain doesn't skip a tooth. Repeat the process on the P/S and you're done timing it. Turn the engine by hand slowly to make sure it doesn't bind.

It is literally that easy. Be sure to properly torque all the bolts (cam and head). To re-install the tensioners you will need some small picks. If you can do heads you will see how they work. Compress them and use a pick to hold the ratcheting mechanism in place.

I don't think you need head gaskets, but hey now you know how to do them.
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:22 PM   #8
jjstandardz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo86 View Post
Replace any seals you can while you have it apart just because. Also spend the $40 it costs to get the OTC alignment tools. When setting it back in time loosen the cams and set them to the proper place using the cam alignment tool. Then set the crank using the crank alignment tool. Retighten the D/S cam since it is the rear chain. You do this so you don't bend any valves when moving the engine with it out of time. Line up the marks with the colored links. Install the tensioners and give the cam an easy turn counter clockwise to tighten the chain. Ensure the chain doesn't skip a tooth. Repeat the process on the P/S and you're done timing it. Turn the engine by hand slowly to make sure it doesn't bind.

It is literally that easy. Be sure to properly torque all the bolts (cam and head). To re-install the tensioners you will need some small picks. If you can do heads you will see how they work. Compress them and use a pick to hold the ratcheting mechanism in place.

I don't think you need head gaskets, but hey now you know how to do them.
ok thanks! i will deffinitely use the information if i have to change it out
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:22 PM
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