TravisJ33

Ok here it goes. First off, I'm a machinist not a mechanic so please pardon my automotive ignorance. I'm trying.

So I have a 2002 Ford Mustang GT that is having misfire problems. I purchased a scan tool and pulled codes PO316 and PO305. This directed me to inspect cylinder number five in which, after removing the COP, I found coolant and oil down around the spark plug. I believe this may be my issue. My questions go as such:

(1) The leak appears to be coming from the housing in which my radiator hose connects into. It appears to be cast aluminum maybe, sort of U shaped, bends around behind the alternator. The leak is not coming from the hose itself but rather from a plastic gasket of sorts that seems to connect the housing to my block. I am wondering if there is a way to remove this housing from my block (if it is not part of the block itself), and replace/repair this plastic fitting. Procedure and part numbers would be strongly appreciated.

(2) If I can manage this is it then appropriate to use simple compressed air to remove the oil and coolant from around my spark plugs? I plan on checking the whole drivers side. Afterwards I was going to check the plugs themselves. Is there anything I should look for that would indicate I should change my plugs? They were changed about 5000 miles ago but with the contamination I'm not sure.

(3) Is there anything else I should be aware or concerned about? Proper cleaning, do not do's, etc. I do plan on picking up a spark tester to test the COP's.

I understand my request is a bit heavy perhaps but I do appreciate any and all info. I'm a novice but I follow directions well. Thank you.

96t-bird

Hi, post some pics of the part you are asking about. on the plugs, make sure you only torque them to spec. Your plugs should be fine after only 5000 miles.clean out the area for #5, check the spark plug gap. The intake manifold are know to crack /leak common issue/problem. Post pics, a lot of knowledgeable people on this site., can give you more info/ better answers.

cliffyk

The leaking you describe sounds like the classic manner in which the intake manifolds having the aluminum crossover pipe (the U-shaped thingy) fail. The intake manifold will have to be replaced--here is the procedure for doing that.

Note: you do not have to break the fuel line, just remove the fuel rails with the injectors still inserted (use wire ties if needed to hold them to the rails), and tie the rails off back toward the firewall while removing and re-installing the manifold.

The common failure is that between the crossover and the plastic flanges of the intake manifold there is a formed rubber seal in a retaining groove, and after years, heat and the effect of the coolant the plastic degrades allowing the seal to poke through into the coolant passage like this:

(viewed from "underneath" with the manifold removed)


You can see where the formed seal has protruded into the passage.

If you are an experienced "do-it-your-selfer" that understand the importance of CLEAN SOLID surfaces when using adhesives and fillers it can be fixed with J-B Weld--that is what I did. 1

Disassemble the coolant crossover from the manifold and scrape away all the deteriorated plastic, right down to a solid surface. Clean, clean, clean it with degreaser and solvent, then denatured alcohol. Clean the crossover pipe similarly. Next apply J-B Weld (the plain ol' slow cure stuff) to both surfaces, filling the seal retaining grooves, and reassemble it--torque the bolts to 16 lb-ft. Put it aside and wait 4 to 5 hours for the J-B Weld to attain its initial set.

This is what mine looked like after cleaning and reassembly with the epoxy:



Now re-install the manifold on the engine and torque it down in the proper sequence described in the procedure--the J-B Weld will still be slightly plastic and form a tight seal. Wait another 24 hours (30 hours total cure time) before re-filling the coolant and starting the engine.

Mine has been fine since doing this some 30k miles ago, though I did also purchase a new FRPP manifold a couple months later just to have on hand--which of course means that the repair will never fail...

TravisJ33

Yeah that seems to be the exact the source of my leak. After some thought I have decided to just replace the manifold. Thank you ClifyK for the detailed response; it is greatly appreciated. I was wondering if you thought whether this manifold (1) would be good replacement? I don’t have PI heads so I’m not sure if this is an issue. Also, the description mentions “All Mustangs will require a new factory style manifold to head gasket…” Does this mean I need both an intake manifold and header gasket? Any recommendations e.g. Ford Dealership, AmericanMuscle, etc? Thank you again for any input.

(1)http://www.americanmuscle.com/intake-manifold.html

cliffyk

That is the manifold you need. If you have a 2002 GT, then you have PI heads. All '99 through '04 GTs have the PI (Performance Improved) heads. Also, the "manifold to head" gasket set is needed--not a "header" gasket...

TravisJ33

Alright, manifold is on its way. Won't be here until next week so next weekend I'm gonna attempt the replacement. I may be biting off more than I can chew but I'm game. I'll let everyone know how it went.

Couple other things though if you guys have any input. My car has about 115,000 miles on her right now. I was wondering if there was anything else I should look for to replace (or just replace due to mileage) while I have her pulled apart? Secondly, are there any tools that I will end up needing besides the obvious sockets, torque wrench, etc. That is, are there any specialty tools that Ford conveniently requires to remove specific parts. Thanks again.

Stevo86

No specialty tools required for an intake manifold at that mileage if you're looking for a "while I'm here" fix spend the 8 bucks and get a new thermostat housing gasket (o-ring). When they're that old sometimes they stick to the housing and can tear on the way out.

Also, the oil in the spark plug well is not cause by the intake manifold. Odds are your valve cover gasket is leaking and needs to be replaced. It is quite easy once you have the intake off but be sure to cover the intake ports on the heads to prevent crud and the occasional errant bolt from falling in there.

cliffyk

^+1, I would replace the thermostat too--it also doesn't cost much, and falls into the "while it's apart" category...

TravisJ33

So all my parts are in and I will be undertaking this tomorrow. I had one more question regarding the gaskets however? I picked up some Felpro intake manifold and valve cover gaskets. Do any of these require some RTV silicone? I believe it is no on the manifolds but am not sure on the valve covers. Thanks.

TravisJ33

So I got the manifold replaced. Took a little while but I got it done. She seems to be running good except for a couple hick ups. I checked all my COP’s with an ignition spark tester and they were all good but imagine one might be getting ready to let go; likely from drowning in coolant. Any ideas or post-replacement advice would be greatly appreciated. Much thanks. You guys (gals) were immensely helpful.