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Old 06-22-2013, 08:29 PM   #1
built67
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Default stock H-pipe won't come out...feeling defeated

Im a diehard DIY kinda guy, and the last thing i wanna do is bring my car to the shop and give some mechanic my hpipe and MIL Elims and say "install it"...but i'm at a loss. Maybe it's bc my 67 spoils me and i can put in headers while the motor is in within 30minutes...but man, these new edges are a PITA to work on!

Does anyone have advice for removing the stock H-Pipe? I can't reach the front O2 sensor harnesses to unplug them...and i tried to get the passenger side nuts off of the manifold studs using a 3/4" ratchet, about a foot of extensions, a swivel and a 15mm deep socket. The socket was at a 90 degree angle basically so when id crank on it to come off nothing moved. I was putting so much force on it i just gave up...i also got nervous cranking on a car like that thats on jackstands. Any advice? I really dont wanna bring it to a shop, but at this point idk if it'll just be worth it to avoid the headache!
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:28 PM   #2
302_Mustang
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Soak the bolts in PB Blaster and you might have to heat the bolts up to break them free
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:34 PM   #3
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I put a price on my sanity, then I work on it until I hit the point the price is right.

........then I take it to the shop.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:38 PM   #4
Seabee1993
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Another thing I had to do was cut an 1 1/2" off of a cheap 15mm 6 sided(?) deep socket so it would fit on the bottom side of the mid pipe, it's a pita to reach and a bigger pita to stay aligned so it won't round off. I know everyone swears by PB blaster, I use CLP/break free, get it at any sports store in the gun section.
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:44 PM   #5
Hangwire
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Just got done swapping my crushed O/R H out for a brand new one today. I crushed it in a wreck this year.

The key to getting the stocker off is PB Blaster and a universal joint. Do yourself a favor and SOAK it with PB blaster and let it sit for an hour or so. The passenger side is a complete pain in the ***. I highly suggest a large torque wrench/breaker bar if you dont have air tools. Unless your'e pretty damn strong you will not break those bolts with a basic ratchet and extensions. Air tools and a compressor are worth the cost even if you only ever used them for this install IMO.

A universal joint is absolutely necessary for the passenger side. I connect two 6" 3/8ths inch extensions together and put the universal joint at the end and connect my 15mil socket to the universal joint and it works out great. Honestly 3x 6" 3/8ths extensions is ideal. Remember to use your off hand to support the extensions and keep them straight while you torque it with your primary arm. If you dont it will simply slip off, get stuck, or straight up break your socket.

As far as the passenger side O2 sensor goes it is very hard to get it connected/disconnected. I find it much easier to disconnect it first before removing or installing the pipes themselves but thats not always possible depending on the size of your arm. If your arm is too big to fit in there you will have to bust the bolts loose and disconnect the pipe so that you can loosen it and try to move it out of the way to disconnect the sensor. Its really not easy. When I first installed my O/R H I was a lot smaller than I am now. It was really hard to fit my arm up there and disconnect it today.

Another thing you need to keep in mind is that depending on the year/month that your car was manufactured you may NEED an extension to your driver's side o2 sensor in order to connect it back up after you get the O/R H on. I seem to remember 2002 as being the cutoff year. My 2003 GT's stock harness was too short to fit after I installed my O/R H. With most O/R H pipes the bung where the sensor threads into is much lower on the pipe than the stock one. I had to cut up and extend my stock sensor harness to make it long enough. If you end up needing to do this please PM me and I will help you with it.
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Last edited by Hangwire; 06-22-2013 at 11:47 PM. Reason: fixed typo
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangwire View Post
Just got done swapping my crushed O/R H out for a brand new one today. I crushed it in a wreck this year...."
OP, please pardon the sidetracking of your thread.
Hangwire...
I was sad to read about your accident that totaled your ride. I enjoy reading your excellent posts and learn from them. I try to read all your posts because in my minds ear they sound just like John Goodman's character,Walter in The Big Lebowski. My question for you is;Where the hell are your rebuild write up and pictures damnit?!

"...It's a league game Smokey."
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Old 06-23-2013, 06:20 AM   #7
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Being from the northeast like you, unbolting exhaust is usually never fun. When I did mine I tried to remove the O2 sensors from the pipe because I couldn't unplug it either. After about ten minutes of rounding the O2 sensor flange I had enough, ordered a new one, and cut the harness. I didn't cut the harness until I got the bolts loose from the manifolds, the back end was really easy for me so there was no worries there. I let my car run for about fifteen to twenty minutes. That got the exhaust real hot, and the combination of that and the extremely liberal use of lube I sprayed on the bolts the night before really helped me get it off. Definitely use a universal joint or swivel socket. Now, the downside of doing that is how hot the exhaust got. Once I got the bolts loose I had to wait for the exhaust to cool down (about an hour) and then finished up. Good luck.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:07 AM   #8
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First of all OP is don't feel bad because THAT nut is bad news for everyone. Those that say they didn't have a problem with it were just lucky......

Persistance but payshunts (spelling, I know).........
I set out to do a PI swap last March, just to be stopped cold in my tracks by that stupid (but smarter than me) nut. Broke a total of 4 (2 were Craftsman) swivals but finally got it a few weeks ago..........

Basically, the only way I know to get at it is.....well, the basics (plenty of lube, high quality tools, and a lot of leverage). Unfortunately, there is no easy out on this one.

Best way is take it to an exhaust shop. Even if its just to have them break that nut loose. I tried but they wanted at least one hour labor rate ($87.50) just to take a look at it (yeah, I think they know about THAT nut too!)....

..........Good luck 67
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:23 AM   #9
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangwire View Post
Just got done swapping my crushed O/R H out for a brand new one today. I crushed it in a wreck this year.

The key to getting the stocker off is PB Blaster and a universal joint. Do yourself a favor and SOAK it with PB blaster and let it sit for an hour or so. The passenger side is a complete pain in the ***. I highly suggest a large torque wrench/breaker bar if you dont have air tools. Unless your'e pretty damn strong you will not break those bolts with a basic ratchet and extensions. Air tools and a compressor are worth the cost even if you only ever used them for this install IMO.

A universal joint is absolutely necessary for the passenger side. I connect two 6" 3/8ths inch extensions together and put the universal joint at the end and connect my 15mil socket to the universal joint and it works out great. Honestly 3x 6" 3/8ths extensions is ideal. Remember to use your off hand to support the extensions and keep them straight while you torque it with your primary arm. If you dont it will simply slip off, get stuck, or straight up break your socket.

As far as the passenger side O2 sensor goes it is very hard to get it connected/disconnected. I find it much easier to disconnect it first before removing or installing the pipes themselves but thats not always possible depending on the size of your arm. If your arm is too big to fit in there you will have to bust the bolts loose and disconnect the pipe so that you can loosen it and try to move it out of the way to disconnect the sensor. Its really not easy. When I first installed my O/R H I was a lot smaller than I am now. It was really hard to fit my arm up there and disconnect it today.

Another thing you need to keep in mind is that depending on the year/month that your car was manufactured you may NEED an extension to your driver's side o2 sensor in order to connect it back up after you get the O/R H on. I seem to remember 2002 as being the cutoff year. My 2003 GT's stock harness was too short to fit after I installed my O/R H. With most O/R H pipes the bung where the sensor threads into is much lower on the pipe than the stock one. I had to cut up and extend my stock sensor harness to make it long enough. If you end up needing to do this please PM me and I will help you with it.
I cant fit my arm up there to disconnect the harness for the o2 sensors...i can use a 7/8s open end to take them off of the pipe? Also...i just cant get the thing to move but im not sure if its the bolt being rusted or the fact that my ratchet is at a 90 degree angle. idk how you can undo a bolt at a 90 even with a swivel
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'67 coupe (Restoration in Progress!)
c4 transmission
289, wiand single plane intake, 650 cfm 4bbl
long tube headers
9", 31 spline Curries, Richmond 3.70s, Ford Racing Traction-Lok
Calvert Racing Shocks/Cal-Track Traction Bars


2000 GT "Spring Edition"
Ford Racing 3.73s
FR500s
Diablo Tune
JBL O/R H-Pipe
Flowmater American Thunder Series
K&N Intake
MGW Shifter
Ford Racing Throttle Body
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:27 PM   #10
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I have touched on this in my past videos, a stock H pipe can be the single most frustrating thing on the car. I have a set of sockets that are about a 1/2 inch shorter than a typical socket that I use for the passenger side nuts.

Here is my video on removing the engine, I have a detailed section on the exhaust, starts around 22:15 in the video, watch it and see if it helps.

Edit:
The passenger side starts around the 26:00 mark and yes, I know I called the passenger side the drivers, but you get the idea.

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Last edited by JC316; 06-23-2013 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:27 PM
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