MaxxRPM

It goes in between where the top of the mount bolts to the engine.

Doublevision

I can get the head on, i can get the oil dipstick in, i cant get them both on at the same time. Frustrating.

JC316

I never, ever, loosen off the head bolts after torquing them. I don't know why that step is there, but I always ignore it and go straight on to the degree turns.

Stevo86

It's because they're torque to yield and you're doing it to stretch the bolts. I skip it too, I honestly just torque them and I have never had any issues with gasket failure.

Doublevision

The pressure fitting on the dipstick has two stages as it goes in, I have the first one past, the second one that does the final seat it is giving me hell. I've lubed it up, do you think it would slide in better with a little heat on it from a heat gun? Seems like it would....... I kind of put it on the side burner as I finish getting the heads on and such so I figured I'd mention it while I'm not doing it just yet.

OH AND one more thing,. I am really having to put some *** into getting that second 90 degree turn on the head bolts. No telling what the ft lb is on the torque at this point. It's normal I assume to be at fairly extreme pressure to get the second 90 degree on the bolts? Oddly some of them don't even feel like they are tight at all after the second 90 degree turn...... well compared to the others. I understand the head will be setting lower at some points depending on which bolts are torqued down, but it just seems some are VERY tight and others are looser, especially 9 and 10.

Doublevision

Guess what I've been doing. Since I don't have a cam tool what you see below is before and after eyeballing the timing. The links on the driver side chain are off a tooth from where they were setting on the sprocket, but the gears are all in the right spot so all chain links being equal, I left it be.

You should be able to eyeball the timing to be in the original state as when I took the pic before I pulled the chain off.

Stevo86

If it is a link off you're wrong. Make sure you get the colored links to line up. It is the only way to verify that your cams are in the right spot. Like I said before if the colored links don't line up then move the cam, don't just guess and say yeah sure looks close.

If these engines are even a tooth off you can have major problems. Plus it's obviously kind of a pain just to re-do timing on these.

MaxxRPM

Yeah, I wouldn't go with that.
You don't even have to find the colored links................Just lay the chain out on a table in a strait line with it folded against itself and mark the end links......that will be the timing marks for the chain. Then just line up the marks you made on the chain with the factory marks on the sprockets.

Doublevision

The link is not off. I simply moved the chain over one, I didn't change the position. It's not timed by the links, it's timed by cam position. I didn't use the links as you are timing it by an old chain instead of by where the cams are like it should be. It's merely in-between the links instead of on it if you look at the right side sprocket. The chain is equal length.

JC316

It doesn't matter where the cam is, if the bright link is on timing dot on both the camshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket, it is correctly timed. It's far to easy to be off two teeth on the crankshaft end when you aren't using the links. Trust me on this one, I have done enough of these engines.