krupa35

So I have sold my RX-8 and got an '02 GT last month, and it was a major difference. Some for the worst, some for the better. Im still taking time to adjust to this machine and Im having alot of fun at the track with it latley but I do have a few questions. For further understanding, i will only be driving this 3000-4000 miles a year, and will be tracking it almost every chance possible (maybe some drifting, but mostly Trackcross and road racing at Pittsburgh International). Just a weekend toy, nothing serious. Here are the mods I have done so far for even further understanding:

Diablosport 93 tune
EGR delete
Rear seat delete
4.10 gears
K&N intake
PP plenum
Accel COP
NGK V-P plugs
Catless X-Pipe with Borla Stingers
Steeda shifter
Saleen wheels 18x10 18x9 on Sumitomo 285/40 265/40
Steeda full-length subframe welded in
Steeda springs


And here are my questions:

-If i wanted a cobra spoiler, would I have to take out my stock 3rd brakelight to install? If so, would i need a harness from Ford to connect the OEM wiring to the Cobra 3rd brakelight harness? Or am I better of buying a whole Cobra trunklid with the spoiler?

(I have read JAZZER's OSG, but i am still very confused)
-This car has alot of bumpsteer, so I was planning on Steeda bumpsteer and steeda balljoint kit as well as some prothane bushings for all around the suspension/steering. but is a panhard bar a necessity for tracking? Or are they meant for solely drag? Will I have clearance issues with my exhaust and If i plan to go coilovers later on, is it pointless to buy this? I will be upgrading the LCA's and UCA's (Rear for now, Front A-arms/tubular K-member later on) and I have read that if you install a panhard bar with a torque arm then it eliminates the UCA, is this true? .Also, I have read that some aftermarket sway bars can actually increase oversteer and hit off the inside of the wheel itself. Has anybody had a problem with this is or is this uncommon/due to poor installation? Mainly, I am just very confused on what parts you can install while having coilovers. This is a very different suspension set-up from my Mazda and im just trying to learn the possibilities in which i can get the most performance for my dollar. Basically i just want to know what would be best for tracking and some road driving here and there (but mainly tracking)


-I do want to convert the tailight bulbs to LED, but for my RX-8 I had to run resistors to keep the DSC and traction/ABS lights from going crazy. I have read its the same thing in these as well. What size resistors should i be running and what bulbs need them? Just the actual brake lightbulbs? Or does the turn signals need resistors as well?

-Ill be running 180 stat with Mishimoto hoses and Zerex 60-40 with WW, is it worth upgrading the water pump as well or are these units built decently well to handle the coolant flow?

-I recently bought an A/C delete kit which I am currently working out getting out of at the moment, how do you remove the lines going in the firewall? is there a flange or nut inside under the dash to remove them?

Thank you in advance - Jake

dared3vil0

Couple things... If this is going to be a track toy, why would you want things like LED turn signals, Cobra spoilers etc? First thing i'd do are some R-Comp tires. Those Sumitomo's will be AWFUL in a track situation. (and just a note on the tire sizing... for a track car you want the widest square set of tires you can get. By square i mean same size at all 4 corners.) Second thing look into a complete re and re of that tired suspension.

krupa35

My brother owns an LED distributor so I get very good prices, but i also love the LED look. I like the Saleen/Cobra spoiler as well, still debating whether or not to pursue that modification.

Im not trying to go *****-out racing, and i understand tires contribute to alot of the performance on any car, so I will be upgrading them with the wheels when I have the money. Until then, it will suffice for what i am using it for. (I have 17x8 bullits for drifting and can easily put good tires on them for racing).

What do you mean by re and re? IRS?

dared3vil0

IRS just isn't worth it. What i mean is your current suspension is probably pretty worn and tired, if you just want to upgrade the handling a bit i'd suggest a stiffer spring and new shocks. Next step is stiffer front and rear sway bars and coil overs. Still though, tires are #1 most important thing for racing.

krupa35

I only have 40k miles and this car is absolutley rust-free. IRS isnt really even in question...way too much work. But if the sways are too stiff they will create understeer and bind. I am trying to find out how to combat that situation with the given complimentary modifications in mind.

dared3vil0

People recommend changing out your shocks every 60k miles, so if i was going to track a car it'd be every 30-40.

school boy

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/
Heres a site to check out for your handling needs. As for the irs, if you can find a nice low mileage one for a good price, then its worth it. The factory 4 link solid axle is a horrible setup. On hard corning, the axle can move up to an inch side to side each way. A pan hard bar will fix this. Also I recommend a torque arm to help geometry. You already have a good start with the subframe connects. Every mustang should have these installed. On the coil overs, this is up to you since its a toy. They are deffinently nice for adjustment and spring rate changes. Remember this is a toy, don't do like I did and stick it in the garage and keep adding parts for 2 1/2 years. Im finally getting to drive mine again

krupa35

So the panhard bar with a combined torque arm is the way to go then correct? Will it replace the UCA's? or is this not true? I appreciate your info. I am just trying to figure out what parts to modify and what ones go along with the modification.

krupa35

And does any manufacturer make LCA's with double spherical bushings?

school boy

The torque arm does replace the uca's and here are the lca's.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=530