Shan243

Thanks for the info. Now I don't have to worry about that oil pan until I get out out.
But where are the torque converter bolts? Inside the bellhousing?

petrock

The torque converter has 4, 5 or 6 bolts coming out of it (I don’t remember how many on your ride, I think its 4). These bolts are bolted to the flexplate which is bolted to the rear of the crankshaft on the back of the motor. You need to remove the nuts attaching the torque converter to the flexplate before separating the motor & trans otherwise you risk damaging the torque converter, tranny input shaft or the tranny oil pump. I’m not sure where the access point for these nuts are on a 4.6L motor, but on a 3.8L there is a 4x3” rubber cover on the front drivers side of the bell housing. Pull the spark plugs, pop that cover off and rotate the motor by hand via the crank pulley bolt (which will be next to impossible if you don’t pull the spark plugs first). This will cause the flextplate to rotate. Keep spinning until a nut comes into view in the access whole. Undo the nut, making sure not to drop it into the bell housing. Then lather, rinse, repeat until all the nuts are out. You’ll know you got them all if you can wiggle the torque converter via one of its bolts.

Oh yeah, I forgot, you also have to pull the starter before separating the motor & trans…

It sounds like this is your first time doing this. I would advise getting the factory service manual for your ride. It will have a step by step instructions on how to do this job and how to re-install. The key bit of info is the torque specs for when/if you put everything back together.

Good luck...

Shan243

Well I can't do that. Cause my motor is seized. It doesn't move at art. Spark plugs been out. Still doesn't move and Idk were any of that is. I took all the bell housing bolts out and there is a hole at the bottom of the bell housing if that'd what you're talking about. Looks like a clutch cable runs there but other than that Idk where that is.
Exhaust is unbolted bell housing bolts motor mounts all the harness wires starter is still on lmk what I'm missing other than the starter. Radiator is out. Ac compressor is off the engine. Powersteringnis still on.

petrock

Crap, do you have a manual or automatic? I have been giving you info for an automatic. A manual is a different story. I would pull the tranny and motor as a unit if its a manual. Lining up a manual trans with a motor when the trans is still in the car is easier said then done. An auto is easy by comparison. Either way, I would also recommend getting a load leveler for the engine hoist you plan on using. I got one from harbor freight for $40 a while ago and it was a life saver when I pulled the motor on my wifey’s mustang earlier this year.

Shan243

tbh im really not trying to take the trans out.
so all that stuff you said about torque converter and all that doesnt apply to me?

petrock

If you have a manual transmission, then you don’t have a torque converter. So not all of the stuff I mentioned above would apply. Some of it would though. I haven’t done a manual transmission/engine separation on a mustang. So I’m not entirely sure. But I would guess that you just have to remove the starter, undo the bell housing bolts, unbolt the motor mounts from the frame, lift the motor a few inches to clear the motor mount bolts from the frame, support the tranny from underneath the bell housing and then pull the motor forward so the tranny input shaft disconnects from the motor and clears the clutch plates. I’m not sure on the total distance the motor needs to travel (probably only a couple inches) but I do know that it needs to be straight. A load leveler will make this a whole lot easier, especially during install when your trying to line up the motor with the tranny input shaft.

Good luck...

Shan243

so it should still be about the same distance to separate the engine and trans right?
& once you lift the tension off the engine you can hit those motor mount bolts out right?

Shan243

i just looked on harbor frieght and i found one for $25. (load leveler)

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...ler-67441.html

petrock

I’m not sure. But it shouldn’t be more then a couple inches.

It is easier to undo the large motor mount nut that goes through the frame with the motor still attached to the motor mounts. They are on there with upwards of 150 ft/lbs of torque, so if the mount is detached from the motor when you try to undo that large nut, the mount will just spin in the frame instead of loosen the nut. The bolts that attach the motor mount to the engine can be removed with the motor in or out of the car. They only have a 30 or so ft/lbs of torque on them. The bolts are just difficult to get to with the motor still in the car.

Shan243

yeah thats what i have off. the nut for the big bolts that go through the frame. i just have the long bolt still in it until i lift the engine a little so i can push them through.