synthetic vs conventional oil
#11
I for a long time I ran mobile 1 in all my cars. It is great stuff and I love it. How ever I have switched over the last year to AMSOIL, and it has made a difference in performance, a slight difference in fuel economy and some of the weird little rattles I had from the engine are gone. I am running 5-20 as they recommend. I love it, i change my oil once a year. It does not matter if I drive it 3K or 20K miles. You can get OE oils and change them at 3k, or can go with a others that extend it all the way to 25K.I have switched it over in my Diesel as well with the same results. They are the leader in the business if you the do the research on them. Yea you can't go in the store and buy it in most locations, but every time I have ordered I have it gotten it in a 2-3 days or less. Yea its a couple dollars more, but I am only changing my oil once a year, it costs less. If you ever have questions about how well your oil is doing, take a sample and send it to them, you get results that show how much long your oil is projected to last. What other company does that? When it comes to performance they are also the only ones you can get the same race grade that they put in there own factory machines, and the same any other race team can get and put in theirs. I have it my transmissions, differentials, and the T-case of my truck as well. I use the octane boost in my mustang because its tuned to 93, and the best we can get is 92 around here, and I droop in the Performance improver every once a while for good measure. Just my 2 cents.
#12
Your Mustang is a '96, correct?
Assuming it has some miles on it, an oil change just once a year might not be the best way to go. An older car is going to get some oil dilution from blowby past the rings and guides and after 12 months I'd be getting worried that your oil is getting too dirty and too thinned out.
The other issue is that after all the heatup and cool down cycles moisture content starts degrading the oil.
The ability of an oil to prevent corrosion also heads south over time.
For me I use both mileage and my eyeballs to decide when to change oil, if its getting too dark its done.
How does your oil look after the 6 month point?
Assuming it has some miles on it, an oil change just once a year might not be the best way to go. An older car is going to get some oil dilution from blowby past the rings and guides and after 12 months I'd be getting worried that your oil is getting too dirty and too thinned out.
The other issue is that after all the heatup and cool down cycles moisture content starts degrading the oil.
The ability of an oil to prevent corrosion also heads south over time.
For me I use both mileage and my eyeballs to decide when to change oil, if its getting too dark its done.
How does your oil look after the 6 month point?
Last edited by CalBoy101; 10-11-2013 at 02:59 PM.
#13
Yes it is a 96 it has 75k on it, and looks fine. I am in the pacific Northwest as well. I also run it in my wife's 00 GT 65K and my Diesel truck 125K , along with the daily drive that see's close to 3K miles a month on it. Any time I have any questions about how it looks, smells or any thing else, I take a sample and send it to AMSOIL. Then the experts can determine how much time I have left or if it needs to be changed.
I was worried about some of the older car issues as well, how ever I have yet to have any issues, and if I really feel like it needs to changed, I do it. I am more likely to change it in most of cars because its been a year, as apposed to the miles on most of them.
I was worried about some of the older car issues as well, how ever I have yet to have any issues, and if I really feel like it needs to changed, I do it. I am more likely to change it in most of cars because its been a year, as apposed to the miles on most of them.
#14
Yes,that is what I was saying.Thank you.
#15
I run pennzoil plat in my car currently, as soon as I fix my timing cover leak I'm moving over to Amsoil true sythentic. Most over the counter synthetics aren't a true synthetic its a refined base oil, using base 3 stocks. The only true synthetics using group 4 bases are Royal purple, amsoil and redline. Mobil 1 use to be a good oil but a few years back they change their base formulation and its been shown multiple times since with used oil analysis that theres more wear metals in the oil after a change with Mobil 1, so I never used it again. Www.Bobistheoilguy.com
#16
As oil goes, just change it in regular fashion. Weather it be 3000, 5000 or 7000 miles. Personally, I go by which engine as how long to go. Also use a quality oil filter, its the thing that filters contaniments out of the oil and keeps it clean.
#17
Nothing like having a simpleton calling me names. No, make that an idiot calling me names.
#18
"if you double the service interval on your oil change" means one oil change per "x" amount of miles verses two oil changes.
" cut the number of times your engine starts without oil pressure in half." means less time the engine runs with zero oil pressure.
Learn to read..........
#19
You are a complete and udder idiot!
"if you double the service interval on your oil change" means one oil change per "x" amount of miles verses two oil changes.
" cut the number of times your engine starts without oil pressure in half." means less time the engine runs with zero oil pressure.
Learn to read..........
"if you double the service interval on your oil change" means one oil change per "x" amount of miles verses two oil changes.
" cut the number of times your engine starts without oil pressure in half." means less time the engine runs with zero oil pressure.
Learn to read..........
You think oil pressure goes to zero only when you drain and refill the oil in an engine. Engine oil pressure goes to zero every single time you turn the engine off.
Speaking of "udder idiots," you are utterly illiterate.
For the sake of your alma mater, don't tell anybody where you went to school.
#20
you got me there, I did spell it wrong. oh well, guess that's why I have a math deree and a CNC machinist degree.
And yes when you turn the engine off, the pressure goes to zero. That's because the engine isn't running, way to state the obvious. But as soon as the engine begins to crank, the mechanical oil pump starts moving oil and begins to pressurize the system. Even if the pressure is very low at first turn of the pump, oil is flowing through the engine. The difference in an oil change is (only if the filter was changed) the pump must move the air from the filter through the system. causing less lubrication for a couple seconds. This is what he was talking about.
Now if all what we have been fighting about is true/false, there will be enough oil on the bearings while the pump is priming on start up (as long as it hasn't been years since last ran) that it doesn't matter. There will be enough lubrication. That goes for oil changes. Think about, why would engines that are properly maintained run hundreds of thousands of miles instead of becoming damaged after oil changes and start ups within the first few thousand miles?
And yes when you turn the engine off, the pressure goes to zero. That's because the engine isn't running, way to state the obvious. But as soon as the engine begins to crank, the mechanical oil pump starts moving oil and begins to pressurize the system. Even if the pressure is very low at first turn of the pump, oil is flowing through the engine. The difference in an oil change is (only if the filter was changed) the pump must move the air from the filter through the system. causing less lubrication for a couple seconds. This is what he was talking about.
Now if all what we have been fighting about is true/false, there will be enough oil on the bearings while the pump is priming on start up (as long as it hasn't been years since last ran) that it doesn't matter. There will be enough lubrication. That goes for oil changes. Think about, why would engines that are properly maintained run hundreds of thousands of miles instead of becoming damaged after oil changes and start ups within the first few thousand miles?