Soon to change breaks, dont know what to pick
#1
Soon to change breaks, dont know what to pick
I am about to change breaks with my next few paychecks, so far i have stock GT calipers with old pads. I went to the AM website and found a good looking set of drilled-slotted rotors and set of Evolution ceramic pads for 300$ (http://www.americanmuscle.com/powers...-kit-9904.html). If anybody tried them please tell me how much better are they over stock setup.
I also am thinking about putting 01 cobra brakes calipers in front, many people say they are better, but its not up to caliper i think, its mostly up to the pads, unless you have 2x bigger calipers lol. Anyways, what do i need to change stock calipers to 01 cobra ones, anything additional i have to buy ?
My biggest problem with these breaks is overheating problem, couple of stops from 120 to 60 and 3rd stop i am having bad smell, they are becoming obnoxiously loud when break and useless after all. I want a more firmer grip like if i'd tap on the break i would feel that it actually did grip.
Maybe you guys can suggest me some other pad and rotor set for around 300$ that would be better than AM ones.
I also am thinking about putting 01 cobra brakes calipers in front, many people say they are better, but its not up to caliper i think, its mostly up to the pads, unless you have 2x bigger calipers lol. Anyways, what do i need to change stock calipers to 01 cobra ones, anything additional i have to buy ?
My biggest problem with these breaks is overheating problem, couple of stops from 120 to 60 and 3rd stop i am having bad smell, they are becoming obnoxiously loud when break and useless after all. I want a more firmer grip like if i'd tap on the break i would feel that it actually did grip.
Maybe you guys can suggest me some other pad and rotor set for around 300$ that would be better than AM ones.
#2
Do not waste your $ on "drilled-slotted rotors" you gain nothing but less $ to spend on real mods
Your best bet is to get nice pads (Hawk) and braided brake lines and probably a brake fluid change
Cobra rotors are 13in compared to what ever smaller Dim. the GT has so it is more than just calipers that are needed for this swap
And WTF do you expect your brakes to smell like after slowing your 3500# car down from 120? I would be surprised if there was a pad made that wouldnt smell hot after doing that
Your best bet is to get nice pads (Hawk) and braided brake lines and probably a brake fluid change
Cobra rotors are 13in compared to what ever smaller Dim. the GT has so it is more than just calipers that are needed for this swap
And WTF do you expect your brakes to smell like after slowing your 3500# car down from 120? I would be surprised if there was a pad made that wouldnt smell hot after doing that
#3
I have the hawk pads and rotors from AM on all four corners. Slotted and cross-drilled supposedly have better cooling capacity but I am not sol on that argument. I like the look so I got them anyway.
I have had no issues of brake fade or bite when I tracked my car. My car overheated long before the brakes were a problem. Also it was half oval half-road course, so there was a lot of time to cool the brakes and a lot of airflow going through 1/2 on the oval at just over a hundred. The transition from oval to the road course was from 110 to about 50ish, with hard braking.
Also, bleed your brakes and get stainless steel lines for a firmer pedal feel. Air compresses and rubber lines expand slightly, both lead to a softer pedal feel, especially when the fluid gets hot.
I have had no issues of brake fade or bite when I tracked my car. My car overheated long before the brakes were a problem. Also it was half oval half-road course, so there was a lot of time to cool the brakes and a lot of airflow going through 1/2 on the oval at just over a hundred. The transition from oval to the road course was from 110 to about 50ish, with hard braking.
Also, bleed your brakes and get stainless steel lines for a firmer pedal feel. Air compresses and rubber lines expand slightly, both lead to a softer pedal feel, especially when the fluid gets hot.
#4
My favorite street/track pads have always been the Hawk HPS pads. They work well on the street because they're quiet and grip rather quickly, even when cold. You'll find most track pads have terrible grip until they heat up.
That being said, the Power Stop brake it is a nice option. The drilled rotors help exit gases released from the pads during excessive braking (heat). It's important to release these gases because if they're caught between the pads and rotor, they'll cause the pads to lift and lose grip.
I hope any of this info helps you out. Let me know if you need any other assistance!
Shane
That being said, the Power Stop brake it is a nice option. The drilled rotors help exit gases released from the pads during excessive braking (heat). It's important to release these gases because if they're caught between the pads and rotor, they'll cause the pads to lift and lose grip.
I hope any of this info helps you out. Let me know if you need any other assistance!
Shane
#6
Bramas you might be right, but i also think that rotors help cool down, we must not forget about rotors and if they get hot, the metal surface starts to change in shapes, its metal thats what it does. I bought my car from a guy who took care of it, and once i sat in it, this car saw no more slow future . In 5 months my rotors looks like BS right now, and when i break hard within 7 seconds you start to even hear the roar of your breaks, its horrible. That is when my decision came about buying exactly slotted rotors.
#7
I have the hawk pads and rotors from AM on all four corners. Slotted and cross-drilled supposedly have better cooling capacity but I am not sol on that argument. I like the look so I got them anyway.
I have had no issues of brake fade or bite when I tracked my car. My car overheated long before the brakes were a problem. Also it was half oval half-road course, so there was a lot of time to cool the brakes and a lot of airflow going through 1/2 on the oval at just over a hundred. The transition from oval to the road course was from 110 to about 50ish, with hard braking.
Also, bleed your brakes and get stainless steel lines for a firmer pedal feel. Air compresses and rubber lines expand slightly, both lead to a softer pedal feel, especially when the fluid gets hot.
I have had no issues of brake fade or bite when I tracked my car. My car overheated long before the brakes were a problem. Also it was half oval half-road course, so there was a lot of time to cool the brakes and a lot of airflow going through 1/2 on the oval at just over a hundred. The transition from oval to the road course was from 110 to about 50ish, with hard braking.
Also, bleed your brakes and get stainless steel lines for a firmer pedal feel. Air compresses and rubber lines expand slightly, both lead to a softer pedal feel, especially when the fluid gets hot.
#8
For me though, I don't have any issue with the stock calipers. Are they the best for track work? No, but I don't track all that often. For the few times I do, swapping out for a dual piston setup or Cobra or Cobra R calipers just isn't worth it.
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