Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Ford Mustang GT Steering & Suspension Guides
- Ford Mustang V6 and GT 2005-2014: How to Replace Front and Rear Lower Control Arms
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Browse all: Ford Mustang GT Steering & Suspension Guides
replacing rear upper control arms and bushings 02 stang gt
#1
replacing rear upper control arms and bushings 02 stang gt
I have a 2002 mustang gt auto. The rear upper control arms and bushings for axle housing have to be replaced. I ordered steel Steeda control arms. I need any advice or step by step instructions on how to replace these. Is it hard to do? Torque specs? What tools I need? Etc. As much information as possible would be greatly appreciated.
I also have to replace the rear shocks as well. Should I do that at the same time? And any info on replacing those as well would be great. Thank you .
I also have to replace the rear shocks as well. Should I do that at the same time? And any info on replacing those as well would be great. Thank you .
#2
It's not that hard to replace them. Jack up your car from the diff, but put jack stands under the frame, keep the jack under the diff. Take off your wheels for room. Undo the 2 bolts on the control arm. Lower your jack until the control arms slacks and falls. Put new arms in, jack up diff until bolts line up. When you tighten the control arm bolts, the suspension must be loaded!! Meaning put the jack stands under the axle at this point and tighten them. Sorry I dunno specs for torque. I would do the shocks at the same time. Hardest part on the shocks is taking the trunk trim out lol so not very hard.
#3
You should definitely do bushings and control arms at the same time. Get yourself a decent torch for taking out the bushings and it will make your life so much easier. Before you start the job put the new ones in the freezer as well, this will shrink them just enough to make it easier to install.
When removing the bushings heat the center metal sleeve until rubber starts to peel out from around it, you will know it when you see it. Then put a punch or pry bar up there and give it a few good whacks with a hammer and it should pop right out. Repeat this process to remove the bushing itself. It will probably catch on fire, don't worry about it just blow it out. After you get it out, run a little sandpaper around the inside of the housing to smooth it back out.
When removing the bushings heat the center metal sleeve until rubber starts to peel out from around it, you will know it when you see it. Then put a punch or pry bar up there and give it a few good whacks with a hammer and it should pop right out. Repeat this process to remove the bushing itself. It will probably catch on fire, don't worry about it just blow it out. After you get it out, run a little sandpaper around the inside of the housing to smooth it back out.
#5
You should definitely do bushings and control arms at the same time. Get yourself a decent torch for taking out the bushings and it will make your life so much easier. Before you start the job put the new ones in the freezer as well, this will shrink them just enough to make it easier to install.
When removing the bushings heat the center metal sleeve until rubber starts to peel out from around it, you will know it when you see it. Then put a punch or pry bar up there and give it a few good whacks with a hammer and it should pop right out. Repeat this process to remove the bushing itself. It will probably catch on fire, don't worry about it just blow it out. After you get it out, run a little sandpaper around the inside of the housing to smooth it back out.
When removing the bushings heat the center metal sleeve until rubber starts to peel out from around it, you will know it when you see it. Then put a punch or pry bar up there and give it a few good whacks with a hammer and it should pop right out. Repeat this process to remove the bushing itself. It will probably catch on fire, don't worry about it just blow it out. After you get it out, run a little sandpaper around the inside of the housing to smooth it back out.
#6
Use a jack on the pumpkin to manipulate the rear end and twist it in the proper direction. Then a little bit of pry bar action will probably be in order. After you get her good and close put the bolt in as best as you can and use the pry bar some more to get it just right. Don't be afraid to give it a little tap with the hammer to get the bolt to slide in. That thing is seriously hard steel. You would have to really wail on it to mess it up.
A few notes, do not tighten anything all the way until all the new parts have bolts in them. That much torque can twist the pieces so that all the prying in the world won't line it up right. Also be mindful of where the end of your pry bar is. That is to say don't be the guy who prys against brake lines, fuel tanks, or the bare floor pan of your car.
A few notes, do not tighten anything all the way until all the new parts have bolts in them. That much torque can twist the pieces so that all the prying in the world won't line it up right. Also be mindful of where the end of your pry bar is. That is to say don't be the guy who prys against brake lines, fuel tanks, or the bare floor pan of your car.
#7
Use a jack on the pumpkin to manipulate the rear end and twist it in the proper direction. Then a little bit of pry bar action will probably be in order. After you get her good and close put the bolt in as best as you can and use the pry bar some more to get it just right. Don't be afraid to give it a little tap with the hammer to get the bolt to slide in. That thing is seriously hard steel. You would have to really wail on it to mess it up.
A few notes, do not tighten anything all the way until all the new parts have bolts in them. That much torque can twist the pieces so that all the prying in the world won't line it up right. Also be mindful of where the end of your pry bar is. That is to say don't be the guy who prys against brake lines, fuel tanks, or the bare floor pan of your car.
A few notes, do not tighten anything all the way until all the new parts have bolts in them. That much torque can twist the pieces so that all the prying in the world won't line it up right. Also be mindful of where the end of your pry bar is. That is to say don't be the guy who prys against brake lines, fuel tanks, or the bare floor pan of your car.
#9
I did uppers and lowers on mine, wasn't too bad. But I pulled the axle out from under the car because I had to do axle seals and bearings so it was just easier. I wanted to check the gear pattern as well. But I can tell you beyond a doubt the best way to replace the upper axle bushings is to pony up $38 for the Maximum Motorsports bushing tool at Latemodelrestoration. I ordered the bushing kit from them as well. I have never changed a bushing so easy and simple... They claim it is easy to use even with the axle under the car.
#10
+1 on the tool!
I have the bushing replacement on the schedule for this spring. I will buy the tool at that time. Besides making the removal and installation easier the tool will also install the new bushings at the correct depth.
I have the bushing replacement on the schedule for this spring. I will buy the tool at that time. Besides making the removal and installation easier the tool will also install the new bushings at the correct depth.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
inyadreems
Archive - Mustangs For Sale
2
08-21-2015 09:10 AM