4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Snapped Clutch Cable

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Old 01-24-2014, 12:35 AM
  #11  
Thatsweetstang
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What do you mean too short? Start from the clutch quadrent, you need to hook the cable on the furthest hook away. Make sure you routed the cable correctly, then pry the shift fork forward and put the cable in. You have to move the shift fork a lot, then look at your throw out bearing to see if it is riding on the clutch fingers, if it is riding on the fingers then yeah it is too short .
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:27 AM
  #12  
scanderson62
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Ok thanks. I was just concerned because MM said to connect to the clutch fork then attach to the quadrant and use the fire wall adjuster to get tension. I did all that and the cable wasn't long enough. Even with the fire wall adjuster all the way in. I did hook it up as you suggested but their is some tension on the cable. Wasn't 100% on how to tell if it was too much.

Thanks for the help I'll go give it a shot
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:56 AM
  #13  
Steve@Tasca
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Originally Posted by TXMach
I went through two ford cables before I upgraded to a Steeda. No problems for about 30,000 miles now.
Odd, most guys I deal with are going the opposite direction of aftermarket back to OEM after having issues.

-Steve
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:37 PM
  #14  
Thatsweetstang
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I have the steeda adjustable cable on my car and my brothers. I've only adjusted them 1 time, that was the first time I put them on. Let us know how the install goes
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Old 01-24-2014, 04:48 PM
  #15  
scanderson62
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i used a pry bar and hooked it all up, the pedal effort is significantly reduced. The pedal does seem to be higher than i remember and it doesn't engage until later that i remember. It has been two weeks since i drove it before it broke so maybe its ok. if it snaps again i'll try that steeda cable out and then i can adjust it a little better. thanks for the input.

i looked up in there and it looks like the TOB is always touching the fingers a little i'll post a pic of it with out the cable in later.
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Old 01-24-2014, 04:50 PM
  #16  
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i used a pry bar and hooked it all up, the pedal effort is significantly reduced. The pedal does seem to be higher than i remember and it doesn't engage until later that i remember. It has been two weeks since i drove it before it broke so maybe its ok. if it snaps again i'll try that steeda cable out and then i can adjust it a little better. thanks for the input.

i looked up in there and it looks like the TOB is always touching the fingers a little i'll post a pic of it with out the cable in later.
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Old 01-24-2014, 04:50 PM
  #17  
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[IMG][/IMG]

theres the clutch and clutch fork with the cable unhooked

Last edited by scanderson62; 01-24-2014 at 04:52 PM. Reason: add description
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Old 01-24-2014, 07:38 PM
  #18  
Thatsweetstang
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I like to have a little gap between the tob and the fingers. But I've read many times that with stock clutch setups the tob has very little pressure on the fingers and that is ok. The only reason why I like to have a gap is because my brothers car kept eating tob with the stock clutch setup and when I finally used the steeda adjustable cable and put a gap between it, it finally stopped eating tob for breakfast. But I'm sure his old set up had too much pressure on the fingers with the tob. The best advice I can give you is make sure that you don't have a lot of pressure on the fingers with your tob. I dunno how you can really check this. Too much pressure is probably why your cables keep snapping. But I just don't know what is "too much".
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Old 01-25-2014, 09:32 AM
  #19  
scanderson62
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Originally Posted by Thatsweetstang
I like to have a little gap between the tob and the fingers. But I've read many times that with stock clutch setups the tob has very little pressure on the fingers and that is ok. The only reason why I like to have a gap is because my brothers car kept eating tob with the stock clutch setup and when I finally used the steeda adjustable cable and put a gap between it, it finally stopped eating tob for breakfast. But I'm sure his old set up had too much pressure on the fingers with the tob. The best advice I can give you is make sure that you don't have a lot of pressure on the fingers with your tob. I dunno how you can really check this. Too much pressure is probably why your cables keep snapping. But I just don't know what is "too much".
I had the same feeling that it was too much pressure on the cable. It's the only part of the install that didn't go exact as the MM instal sheets were written. I had assumed the cable I was replacing was a Napa auto parts cable and that may be the case, which if it is then the quality is probably what cause it to brake. If this cable snaps in the near future I'm going to give they steeda adjustable a shot. I've heard mixed reviews on it. But it's worth a shot I think
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:49 PM
  #20  
cliffyk
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The spec is that there be 0.100" to 0.225" clearance between the TOB and the Belleville spring fingers. As the overall ration of the clutch control mechanism is roughly 10:1 adjusting the cable to provide 1" to 1-3/8" free play at the pedal will properly set the TOB gap.

The stock semi-automatic adjuster usually leaves more free play, 1-1/2' or more; that is why many use the manual procedure desctibed here to tighten it up a bit.


Last edited by cliffyk; 01-28-2014 at 08:39 PM.
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