4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Update/ and looking for more advice.

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Old 04-15-2014, 03:54 PM
  #11  
DillonInCO
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Originally Posted by mstahoo
Subframe connectors are there but I think they come stock on all convertibles....
They do, but they're useless. Haha. They bolt on, and only connect a small portion of the center of the car. You want full length subframe connectors, the kind that weld on. If your budget is tight and you're mechanically inclined, I'd suggest taking a welding class and doing it yourself...or find a friend who will do it for cheap. A shop is going to charge $350-500 to do it, depending on how straight your frame is and how much prep work you do on your own.
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:23 PM
  #12  
mstahoo
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I figured....but are the sub frame connectors for better launching or handling? Im not too concerned with handling as I don't zoom around town, and the car handles pretty good as is. And as far as launching, I don't have the kind of horsepower that would cause the chassis to bind. lol I wish!
Ill line up with someone in the street now and then, gun it for 6 or 7 seconds and then let off. Whoever is ahead at that point is ahead. And I like racing the clock at the track....Im look for better times.
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:31 AM
  #13  
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Hey there, I was going to make a new thread for this question(its my thread) but since I figured this one said "looking for advice" it encompasses everything. lol. Ill see if I can get an answer here first, before asking it in a new thread.
Anyways, I found a guy around here called One Trick Pony, who will do my gears ,4.10's, for $550 installed, parts AND labor. I thinks that's pretty good.

I have a couple quick concerns, I want to see if any of you can put them to rest OR re-enforce them.
First: When I called and asked what guarantee they offer with the job, the man said" Well we put them in, if they don't wine or grind, off you go an that's it" He's telling me once they are in right, they're in. Do I trust him?

Second: I have an automatic, and as most of you now it is a BIG NO NO to shift into overdrive at WOT. And the problem is, my overdrive is stuck ON permanently. At the track now, I don't even get close to it at the end of the 1/4 mile, but will I shift into it with the 4.10's????? If so, I cant get them.

Last: I have stock gears with 10" rear wheels that have meety 295/s on them and I still spin tires a little to easy for my taste. What will happen with the 4.10's? If its worse, my times / street races will suffer. lol

Any advice or experience with any of this would be highly appreciated.

Thanx
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Old 04-22-2014, 06:25 PM
  #14  
DillonInCO
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Originally Posted by mstahoo
I figured....but are the sub frame connectors for better launching or handling? Im not too concerned with handling as I don't zoom around town, and the car handles pretty good as is. And as far as launching, I don't have the kind of horsepower that would cause the chassis to bind. lol I wish!
Ill line up with someone in the street now and then, gun it for 6 or 7 seconds and then let off. Whoever is ahead at that point is ahead. And I like racing the clock at the track....Im look for better times.
Mostly handling, but you'd be amazed how sloppy the Mustang chassis is, I think it does help hook up better. For sure it will track straighter off the line and give you more controlled launches. It should improve the ride quality as well, and for that it's worth it IMO.

Originally Posted by mstahoo
I have an automatic, and as most of you now it is a BIG NO NO to shift into overdrive at WOT. And the problem is, my overdrive is stuck ON permanently. At the track now, I don't even get close to it at the end of the 1/4 mile, but will I shift into it with the 4.10's????? If so, I cant get them.

Last: I have stock gears with 10" rear wheels that have meety 295/s on them and I still spin tires a little to easy for my taste. What will happen with the 4.10's? If its worse, my times / street races will suffer. lol

Any advice or experience with any of this would be highly appreciated.

Thanx
You probably will shift into OD, autos have a 1:1 3rd gear. Using this calculator that puts you around 5000 RPM in 3rd at 100 MPH. I guessed at tire size (27.5). BUT I'm not sure what the factory shift points are. Maybe you could buy a tuner that will let you customize the shift points to rev out that high under WOT.

If you're spinning 295s too easily, I would say something else is wrong, but I don't have any experience with flooring it in an auto. I'd guess they're either really crappy tires, or you ought to look at replacing shocks and rear lower control arms (probably more likely). Honestly I would do that first instead of gears, if you haven't already.
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:35 PM
  #15  
mstahoo
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Hey thanks for responding....if your calculating is correct @5000rpm @100mph, then Im ok. My car IS tuned to shift well over 6000rpm.

I thought I saw somewhere that a 2001 auto owner said he had the 4.10's and went through the 1/4 mile trap with 500rpms left before going into overdrive. But I could never find that again, so I figured I'd ask.....

I should go to a tranny shop and see if they can fix my overdrive button. lol
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