New here, oil pressure gauge question
04-27-2014, 12:45 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: IL
Posts: 335
New here, oil pressure gauge question
My son just got done with his initial entry training for the Army and with the money he saved bought a 2002 GT 5 MT. This wasn't my idea, but I had a '88 GT when I was a kid, so I get it.
Anyway, he didn't have a lot of money but wanted something sporty. He found this car at private sale for $4700. 143K miles. I went with him to check it out, since I know my way around cars.
As soon as I started it I knew it had major problems. There is a loud knock constantly while running. My scan reader says cylinder 3 & 4 are misfiring, misfire during the first 1000 revolutions, and the CEL is flashing under power. I used a stethoscope to pinpoint the knock to the valve cover above 3 & 4, with a hint of knock also above 7 & 8. The car is so low on power that it can barely get out of its own way.
Other than the engine, it is a solid car, especially for the miles. Clutch, transmission, and rear felt good. Steering is solid but it will need shocks and struts. There are a few interior pieces that should be replaced. A/C is nice and cold. Tires are brand new Coopers.
I explained to him that the engine problems could be simple, like collapsed lash adjusters, our more expensive: scored cam, broken valve, or we may have to get a rebuilt engine. Obviously we didn't pay $4700. I didn't want to pay more than $2K, but it's his money and he settled at $2400. The good news is that he has enough cash for a rebuilt engine if it comes to that and I can do the work in my garage. In then end I think he got a good deal and it will become a father / son project.
My plan now is to check cold and hot oil pressure and then do a compression test on all 8 cylinders. So, here's my question. I believe I should be able to two into the factory oil pressure port at the oil filter boss? Is this the only oil pressure access on this engine? Surely someone has installed a gauge in the cabin and has a parts list?
After that's fine and I have the measurements, we'll start tearing it apart to see what's what...
Anyway, he didn't have a lot of money but wanted something sporty. He found this car at private sale for $4700. 143K miles. I went with him to check it out, since I know my way around cars.
As soon as I started it I knew it had major problems. There is a loud knock constantly while running. My scan reader says cylinder 3 & 4 are misfiring, misfire during the first 1000 revolutions, and the CEL is flashing under power. I used a stethoscope to pinpoint the knock to the valve cover above 3 & 4, with a hint of knock also above 7 & 8. The car is so low on power that it can barely get out of its own way.
Other than the engine, it is a solid car, especially for the miles. Clutch, transmission, and rear felt good. Steering is solid but it will need shocks and struts. There are a few interior pieces that should be replaced. A/C is nice and cold. Tires are brand new Coopers.
I explained to him that the engine problems could be simple, like collapsed lash adjusters, our more expensive: scored cam, broken valve, or we may have to get a rebuilt engine. Obviously we didn't pay $4700. I didn't want to pay more than $2K, but it's his money and he settled at $2400. The good news is that he has enough cash for a rebuilt engine if it comes to that and I can do the work in my garage. In then end I think he got a good deal and it will become a father / son project.
My plan now is to check cold and hot oil pressure and then do a compression test on all 8 cylinders. So, here's my question. I believe I should be able to two into the factory oil pressure port at the oil filter boss? Is this the only oil pressure access on this engine? Surely someone has installed a gauge in the cabin and has a parts list?
After that's fine and I have the measurements, we'll start tearing it apart to see what's what...
04-27-2014, 12:50 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: IL
Posts: 335
That should say "tap into the factory oil pressure port..." and "after that's done...". Likely I can't edit my post because I don't have enough history here yet. I'll see if I can post a picture of the car.
04-27-2014, 12:53 PM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NC
Posts: 1,956
Well start with the little things.
Pull the plugs and replace(gap to factory specs). While the plugs are pulled look for evidence of spark plug thread being repaired(Timeserts, helicoils, etc). Its a very common issue with these motors(99-'00 and some '01s) to shoot spark plugs out of the cylinder heads due to there only being 2-3 threads for it to start with. This issue was fixed in some '01s, and all 2002-2004s.
Replace ALL Coil on Plugs in the same process.
Inspect TB/IAC/Idle components.
Inspect for major vacuum leaks after the MAF.
Changing the spark plugs and COPs will most likely significantly improve your symptoms.
Pull the plugs and replace(gap to factory specs). While the plugs are pulled look for evidence of spark plug thread being repaired(Timeserts, helicoils, etc). Its a very common issue with these motors(99-'00 and some '01s) to shoot spark plugs out of the cylinder heads due to there only being 2-3 threads for it to start with. This issue was fixed in some '01s, and all 2002-2004s.
Replace ALL Coil on Plugs in the same process.
Inspect TB/IAC/Idle components.
Inspect for major vacuum leaks after the MAF.
Changing the spark plugs and COPs will most likely significantly improve your symptoms.
04-27-2014, 12:56 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: IL
Posts: 335
His car was built very late 2002, so hopefully that isn't an issue. If anyone wants to know the exact build date of their car and every option it was ordered with and where it was built, pull up http://www.etis.ford.com/ and click on "Vehicle". Enter your VIN and hit return. After the basic info comes up, there is a link on the right side that will drop down all your factory options. This also tells you about any outstanding recalls.
04-27-2014, 12:58 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: IL
Posts: 335
The noise is most definitely a mechanical knock. I can isolate it with a mechanic's stethoscope to the valve cover above cylinders 3 & 4, and it is not present in the corresponding ignition coils. The coils look to be brand new Accels. They are not the best quality, I know. First things first we have to correct the mechanical issues.
04-27-2014, 01:09 PM
#8
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NC
Posts: 1,956
This could clear up A LOT of the conditions that are causing knocking sir. Modern Fuel Injection motors are very dependent on the ignition coils firing correctly. I don't care how new they look. Replace them all. I've been there and done that with these motors. Just my .02.